Just in case you have not read the first installment: 
http://www.fortheloveofport.com/articles/a_Tour1.htm

Our first day of the trip as described in the last newsletter, seemed as long as a television season of the hit show “24” but it really flew by.  Onto day 2 and our first visit took us to the Fonseca Lodge.

THE FLADGATE PARTNERSHIP:

We arrived at the large and very distinguished Fonseca Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia and were met by David Guimaraens.  I’ve known David for quite a few years and he is the sixth generation of the Guimaraens family to be involved with Fonseca Guimaraens.  He is the son of the legendary Bruce Guimaraens who provided some of my earliest Port inspiration and one of the greatest raconteurs I’ve ever met.  David is a brilliant winemaker in his own right, having apprenticed in California, Oregon and Australia before his formal training at South Australia’s Roseworthy Agricultural College, (one of the finest oenology schools in the world).  He oversees the winemaking and blending for the Fladgate Partnership’s four Port houses: Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca Guimaraens, Croft and Delaforce. 

We spent some time discussing various Port topics and the group was fascinated by the wealth of knowledge that David possesses and was willing to share.  Topics ranged from the micro-oxygenation which takes place in the lagares during treading, to the difference between robotic plungers versus robotic feet, to nuances of tannins and anthrocyanins in various Port grapes, to how new plantings are now segregated by grape variety, to the improvements in the vineyards and understanding of terroir and site selection for specific grapes, to the challenges of blending Port and how that process really begins in the vineyard … and MUCH more.  It was like taking a class in Port.

The principal owner of the Fladgate Partnership, Alistair Robertson and his daughter Natasha came to meet the group.  It was very generous of them to take the time to do so and was much appreciated.  Natasha has an excellent palate and nose for the Port business and plays a significant role in the blending of the Ports.  The various branches of the family tree have intertwined over the centuries and can trace their ancestry and history in the Port trade back to Job Bearsley in 1692.  It is an impressive group that is known worldwide for producing some of the greatest Ports ever vinified.

We then had a couple of hours to try an impressive array of White, Tawny, Colheita, LBV and Vintage Ports.  The lineup was deep and my sincere thanks to David and the Robertson family for their incredible hospitality.  (Note:  This is a shortened version of the tasting, as I won’t get to write about every wine we tasted on this trip.  The most recent newsletter contained over 40 Port tasting notes and that report ended with just the first day of our trip, spanning more than 20 pages.  No one has ever accused me of being concise.).

Without further ado, on to the Ports:

Croft’s  “Distinction”  Special Reserve Port –  young, primary, soft and approachable.  Enjoyable aromas of mocha and black currants, with slightly grapy and plum flavors.  It is light-medium bodied and easy to pour and enjoy now.  Medium length to the finish that offers nice chocolate notes on the aftertaste, along with a touch of spirit.  86 points (10/25/05)

1999 Croft LBV Port – very dark ruby color with plum, floral and a cedar component on the nose.  Medium-rich LBV with dark cherry, chocolate covered raisins and bright red berry flavors.  Smooth on the palate and offers fine length on the finish, with just a touch of heat.  87 points (10/25/05)

2000 Fonseca LBV Port – dark ruby color, offers rose petals, dark berries and a hint of alcohol on the nose.  I enjoyed this approachable, sweet and simple style of LBV.  It shows blackberry and a peppery streak on the palate, nicely balanced with moderate tannins that come to play on the smooth, spicy finish.  89 points (10/25/05)

2000 Taylor LBV Port – dark ruby and fully opaque appearance, firmer and more powerful than its sister Fonseca, also a bit more viscous and rich on the smooth mouth feel.  The Taylor was a pleasure to drink and is not a shy LBV.  This had really nice palate presence, excellent balance and offered ripe, chewy plum fruit and a luscious aftertaste.  90 points  (10/25/05)

1995 Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port – I’ve had this quite a few times before and like it almost as much as the Vinha Velha version from ’95 which is a head turner.  Stylized aromas of violets, graphite and earthy red berry fruit that offer great complexity and kept my nose close to the glass.  A dense, rich and memorable Vargellas, the ’95 is one of the greatest Ports of the vintage.  This is a mouth filling beauty that delivers smooth boysenberry, tar and mocha flavors with chewy tannins and fine structural components.  The power packs a wallop on the finish that goes on and on.  Lots of upside to keeping this one in the cellar. 94 points (10/25/05)

1987 Fonseca-Guimaraens Vintage Port – medium red color with a lighter rim.  Nice aromas of spice, plums and a smoky note that I really was intrigued by.  It has been a couple of years since I’ve had this Guimaraens bottling.  Flavors of spicy raspberry, black cherry and licorice add to the complexity of this VP that is in full stride today.  Good grip and structure overall that leads to a medium finish.  From 1987, I prefer the Quinta de Vargellas which is in my Top Ten Ports of the 1980s and one of my all-time favorite SQVPs.  91 points  (10/25/05)

2003 Fonseca Vintage Port – inky magenta colored.  There is a nice evolution from when I had this several times as a cask sample (back in June and July of ’05) and it is mostly noticeable on the nose.  Perfumed berry flavors and spice prevail.  Smooth, rich and incredibly dense VP that distinguishes itself with elevated ripe boysenberry and plum flavors, sweet and lasting on the palate.  The tannins are less dominant than earlier tastings and the finish is incredible.  A massive Vintage Port that will delight for decades to come.  98 points (10/25/05)

2003 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port – The Taylor is far more giving now, than the very hard to elucidate cask samples I tried earlier in the year.  Floral scented with black currant fruit and raisin aromas.  More power and less friendly than Fonseca at the moment and probably for years to come.  I like the potential greatness of this huge, dense and chewy monster of a VP.  What an excellent birth year wine … for the grandkids.  The tannins so thoroughly coat one’s entire mouth that Taylor should sell this along with a toothbrush.  Wow!  97 points  (10/25/05)

Delaforce “Curious and Ancient” 20 year old Tawny Port – Nutty nuances abound in this well-made Tawny with whiffs of grandfather’s pipe tobacco, toffee, dates and cedar.  It is a fine 20 year old that provides a light elegant style as well as flavors of prunes and hazelnuts with a cinnamon sugar coating.  The smooth approach is supported by a fine nuttiness and vibrant acidity that linger long after swallowing.   92 points (10/25/05)

Taylor 40 year old Tawny Port – A beautiful maple syrup color with a yellowish meniscus.  I have not had this in years and it was like revisiting an old friend.  My favorite of all Taylor Tawny Ports and one of the greatest 40 year olds.   Fragrant caramelized sugar, coffee and toasted almonds provide an ethereal combination.  Sumptuous and rich on the palate with elegance throughout, and it ends like a favorite novel.   94 points (10/25/05)

1944 Delaforce Colheita Port – Describing the color is not easy as there’s a brownish-orange core with a yellowish-green edge that is pretty to look at.  Exotic orange peel, spice and dates offer a unique nose.  Like a great Boal, rich and viscous with a fabulous dose of acidity providing the backbone to this delicious and warming Colheita that keeps on going long after the last sip.   93 points (10/25/05)

 1952 Delaforce Colheita Port – Coffee color.  Delivers penetrating tang of mandarin orange, toffee and burnt caramel.  Even thicker than the ’44 and sweeter as well, this is the Malmsey version.  Fantastic symmetry and flavors with a very memorable finish.  I poured more of this before departing the Lodge after a couple of dozen Port … it was that tasty.  95 points (10/25/05)

1986 Delaforce Colheita Port – Orange-tawny color.   It had an impossible act to follow given the 34 year age difference and the quality of the previous Delaforce diamond.  Much less development on the palate.  Somewhat simple and still in need of time, this Colheita does offer some nutty flavors and a slight bitter note on the medium length finish.  89 points (10/25/05)

* The notes here represent just a cross-section of our tasting.   When time permits, I’ll add the balance to the FTLOP Tasting Note archives.

After the generous hospitality and educational visit with the Fladgate Partnership, it was time for lunch.  I don’t know about the others, but I was starving.  We had an appointment to have lunch at the Palácio da Bolsa, which is the old stock market and where the IVDP Confraria enthronements take place.  It is a majestic old building with a restaurant on the premises, where we were to meet a pair of young Port makers, each with their own small production.

João Russo Monteiro presented his wines from Quinta da Fonte Nova.  The property has been around for a century.  We first tried a pair of João’s Douro reds, followed by a Vintage Port:

2003 Vinhas de Soutelo Douro Red – Fully opaque, deeply extracted dark burgundy color.  This medium-bodied wine sees no time in wood and shows a freshness and smoky cherry notes initially.  This is a rustic wine that needs at least two more years to be enjoyable.  Today it is dry and tannic with moderate length to the finish and is tough to appreciate at this point.  84 points (10/25/05)

2003 Arrobeiros Reserva Douro red – A blend with more promise, utilizing both French and American oak with dark berry flavors and a smoother approach.  The structure of this wine is more to my liking.  85 points (10/25/05)

2000 Quinta da Fonte Nova Vintage Port – Dark ruby color but very light bodied for such a young VP from a terrific vintage.  This was a pleasant, serviceable Port, but honestly not one that I would buy, especially given the choices in 2000 VPs.   80 points (10/25/05)

Also joining us for lunch was Jose Antonio Mendes of Quinta do Javali to present three wines.  I was quite enamored with this lineup considering I had barely heard the name Javali before.  Discoveries like this make the trip to Portugal, even more enjoyable. 

2003 Quinta do Javali Reserva Douro red – A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinto Cao aged in French oak. Javali’s Douro red wine exhibits wild berry and anise aromas.  It is soft and approachable and a very enjoyable drink.  A nice food wine too with subtle tannins and a lingering aftertaste.   87 points (10/25/05)

Quinta do Javali Special Ruby Reserva Port – Sadly, I did not take good notes on this wine.  I just wrote, “very good for a ruby.” 86 points (10/25/05)

2001 Quinta do Javali LBV Port – Impressive!  Dark purplish ruby color.  Nice red fruit and floral scents lead to a soft and very approachable, light-bodied Port with semi-sweet flavors and a great mouth feel.  No signs of spirit or tannins which is commendable in an LBV, especially a producer that most of us outside of Portugal have rarely if ever heard of.  A very tasty young Port which shows the promise of good things to come from Javali.   89 points (10/25/05)

After a delicious lunch and tasting through the six wines above, we had a nice walk back to the hotel and a little time to relax by the Ribeira.  Glad to be well rested before a big night out, it was time for a pre-prandial cruise on the Douro River.  It was a beautiful evening and we all thoroughly enjoyed the sites and had some simple ruby Port while checking out the scenery.  It is wonderful to see historic Vila Nova de Gaia’s majestic Port Lodges lined up along the river and winding up the narrow streets, from the vantage point of being on the river.  On the opposite bank of course is the city of Oporto.  Every Port lover must experience this at least once in their lifetime! 

A Night with the Niepoorts:

Next, we met up with the dapper Dirk van der Niepoort and his charismatic wife, Dorli.  It was a nice surprise for our guests to meet the Niepoort’s who introduced us to a refined ristorante & wine bar, Degusto in nearby Matosinhos.  This attractive eatery was adjoined by an excellent wine shop that had an astonishing array of bottlings from around the globe. The restaurant’s decor was striking, from the elongated entryway to the chic dine-in bar area to the ultra-modern lighting in the dining room.  The ambience was stylish but the food was simply à point.  I later found out that Degusto had received the 2005 Wine Spectator, Award of Excellence, which did not surprise me, after perusing the smart wine list.  Congratulations to General Manager Paulo Espirito Santo, who is also a partner in this venture along with Dirk.  However, on this night, we stuck to Niepoort’s wines (along with a 1983 Hanzell Pinot Noir - CA, USA - which I brought over with me). 

Onto the Niepoort wines:

2004 Niepoort Tiara Douro White – New to the lineup of white wine that Niepoort produces, the Tiara is a steely, mineral laden wine using the Douro’s Codega grape from a plot of old vines.  Dirk mentioned a flavor cross between Riesling and Chablis.  It sees no wood, has little contact with the grape skins and fermentation was challenging in this debut vintage.  A dry and light-bodied white, that is perfect as an aperitif or with appetizers.  The peach and citrus were balanced by zesty acidity and a fine finish.  Drink it young.  90 points (10/25/05)

2004 Niepoort Redoma Reserva Douro red – Is this the Douro’s version of Meursault?  Maybe the 60 year old vines had something to do with the complexity of this wine.  One of the smoothest, best balanced and opulent whites I have tasted from the region.  When the oak fully integrates, it is going to be a knock out.  Darn good right now though, I’d wait a year or two.  92 points (10/25/05)

2003 Niepoort Vertente Douro red – Although I like the 2001 Vertente quite a bit (bottle age doesn’t hurt) I prefer this younger version, a well-made red that offers smoky, spicy plum notes.  It offers a big, ripe, black fruit driven palate presence and having lots of Touriga Nacional is a good thing here.  Reminds me of young Ridge Geyserville in some ways and you gotta love the chocolate note on the finish, with a hint of youthful spirit protruding.  88 points (10/25/05)

2003 Niepoort Batuta Douro red – The grapes from 60-100 year old vines are left on their skins for up to two months and then barrel fermented.  This (along with the Charme) has typically been my favorite Douro red of Dirk’s.  I was glad to taste this young pup but it really needs some cellaring to show its excellence, as the aromatics seemed tight as a snare drum.  Dark inky color, with big, ripe blackberry and currant flavors that are enormous and matched against massive tannins.  Revisit in at least three years.   94+ points (10/25/05)

1959 Niepoort Colheita Port – My first time trying this Colheita and it was extraordinary.  Light amber in color.  Notes of toffee, over ripe pineapple and hazelnuts swirl within the glass and are exotic.  The liquid pralines and hedonistic caramelized essence of this juice was remarkable unctuous on the palate with a long and very smooth finish.  I woke up the next day still thinking about this Port!   95 points  (10/25/05)

1977 Niepoort Vintage Port – This was one of the very last remaining Vintage Ports from the Niepoort collection that I had never tasted (from a renowned vintage, to be more accurate).  Medium dark ruby color.  Anise, spice and strawberry aromas leap out of the glass.  Showing ripe, sweet raspberry flavors with a mocha nuance.  Finely interwoven tannins and seamless acidity provide for a smooth sailing with this complex VP.  Although the tannins seem quite resolved, I believe this Port’s best years are still a decade away.   93+ points (10/25/05)

At the end of the evening, we thanked the Niepoort’s for a tremendous experience and it would be less than 10 hours later that we’d be visiting with Dirk at his Gaia-based Lodge.  Day two was now officially over and with another forty Douro reds and Ports under our belt, it was a guarantee that we’d sleep well.

DAY 3

Niepoort revisited:

There is nothing like drinking Port within an hour of finishing breakfast.  I will not share how often this has been the case over the course of many years of “enthusiasm.”  Today would be no exception.  Dirk was quite chipper and the group was up to the task to try some recent vintages of Port, but mostly, they were very eager to see the historic Lodge of the Niepoort family and have the chance to be schooled by Dirk.  Having been to this unique facility in the past, the highlight was getting to meet Dirk’s sister Verena, who is now an active participant in the family run business (the 5^th generation of the Dutch family, in the Port trade).  It is nice to know that Dirk will have another family member in the business, to share in the tradition of Port and the legacy of the name Niepoort.

Dirk’s father Rolf and their ancestors, believed in buying high quality grapes to make their Port wine.  Dirk always the contrarian, decided to become a land owner in the Douro some years ago and has taken part in a number of ventures with Quintas and specific vineyard sites that have featured old vines.  He believes that by improving the viticultural practices, (beyond the weather conditions) he can positively influence the quality of the Port and Douro wine production.  His newest and very promising vineyard sites is called PISCA, which is a 5.5 hectare vineyard with 80+ year old vines that are planted to field blends, near Pinhao.  Dirk laughs and mentions, “I have an allergy to young wine.”

Did I mention that Dirk is a contrarian?  He states, “We are growing Pinot Noir in the Douro, but it is a project that I will take more seriously in the future.”  A Douro Pinot?  It has a ring to it and if anybody could pull this off in the heat of the Douro, I’d bet on Dirk to figure out a way.  Niepoort is a well known fanatic for acidity, which speaks to his love of German Rieslings.  He goes out of his way to avoid having to “correct” acidity levels in his wines, limiting the use of Tartaric acid.  He explains that, “spirit can destroy acidity balance at times.”  Just to give an idea how much Dirk cares about the quality of his Vintage Ports (not to mention Colheitas/Garrafeiras and Douro wines), in 2003, he discarded 30,000 liters of grapes that he felt were over ripened. 

OUR GANG AT THE NIEPOORT LODGE © by ROY HERSH 10-26-05

So what is the future for Niepoort?  In a word: bright.  Dirk is unassuming yet confident and is making some of the best wine and Port in the country!  He is proud that his sister has joined the company and will be a huge help in handling many of the details of running the business.  Dirk has been on the cutting edge when it comes to white and red wine production from the Douro.  He currently has at least eight Douro wines that I can think of and he remains committed to being one of the leaders in the Douro table wine movement.  With Port, Niepoort is considering making his unique Garrafeiras, (aged in demijohns, Niepoort is the ONLY producer currently making this style of Port) three or four times per decade.  Along with that departure, he’d like to make around 30,000 liters of Colheita, every year weather permitting.  I have met a large number of people in the Port trade, but few are as involved in so many projects simultaneously, as this warm and gregarious man. 

 Onto a few “morning” Ports:

 2000 Niepoort LBV Port –  Medium ruby color, light to medium bodied with spicy and approachable sweet raspberry fruit, tar and cedar.  Soft and seemingly more mature than a 2000 LBV.  It is an elegant and easy-to-drink style and not the big fruit forward or tannic LBV type.  I particularly liked the aftertaste that stayed with me for longer than most LBVs normally do.    89 points (10/26/05)

2003 Niepoort Secundum Vintage Port – bing cherry, spice and chocolate scents provide a more giving nose than the cask sample I tried months earlier.  Harmonious and well-balanced, with lively tannins that seem more potent today.  Drink now or hold two decades.   93 points (10/26/05)

2003 Niepoort Vintage Port – Fully opaque and inky appearance.  Ripe plum and pure blueberry flavors dominate the palate with dense and chewy mouthfuls of jammy juice.  Then the punishing tannins kick in.  Whoa!  This is one extroverted VP that will deliver drinking pleasures for most of this century.  The finish is incredibly persistent.  97+ points (10/26/05)

What a great ending to the morning and visit with the Niepoort family.  The group members could not stop talking about the great experience in this particular Lodge and the pleasure in meeting Dirk.  Between the Douro wines and Colheita Ports the night before, and today’s young LBV and Vintage Ports, we had a full cross-section of the Niepoort port folio.

By now, our guests were starting to understand what was in store for the rest of the week, although we kept a few nice surprises tucked away.  I was glad that so far, stamina was not an issue, as tasting great Ports is a tough job.  No rest for the weary, we were off to the nearby Graham’s Lodge and a wonderful afternoon with the Symington Family.

Symington Family Estates:

GRAHAM’S LODGE © by ROY HERSH 10-26-05

The red carpet was rolled out for our group and three members of the Symington family were there to greet us. After introductions, we were led to a meeting room within the Graham’s Lodge in Gaia.  Paul Symington held court and literally provided us with a marketing seminar on the challenges facing the Port industry and how the Symington Family Estates’ team was progressively responding to opportunities in the market place.  It was a very impressive and educational session, to say the least. 

 The first thing I learned was that the Symington family members each own and manage vineyard properties and their grapes are supplied to the family owned Port companies.  Between the individual ownership and that of the family owned properties, they own a total of 15 Quintas which does not include their joint venture at Quinta de Roriz or Quinta de Perdiz; with approximately 1,300 hectares of prime vineyards and plenty of room for further planting when needed.

Some things to share:  Overall Port sales have declined world wide since 2000.  The top 6 Port markets are listed below:

*The figures above are for ALL categories of Port sold and do not equal 100% as “other countries” are not shown here.  The “value by market” shows which countries are buying the less expensive or more expensive Port styles and where the opportunities lie for the future. 

Looking at the two most dominant Vintage Port markets, the US and UK, the numbers that follow are telling:

Overall, there are 20-25 hectoliters per hectare (somewhat low yields) for grapes used in Port production.

Looking at Bordeaux, the overall figure is 50 hectoliters per hectare.

It is quite obvious that the key to the future is selling more Port in the premium categories that improve margins on a per case basis.  This is the lifeblood of the Port industry and moving forward it will gain even more attention by the shippers and producers.  There is no question that the production costs in the Douro will continue to rise in years to come, as the scarcity in labor becomes ever more critical and costly.  The Port trade is in the midst of an exciting yet very difficult time and it will be interesting to watch its progress in the next decade and beyond.

VINTAGE PORT:  Total sales of VP in 2004 = 80,800 cases. 

Total Sales of all Symington Family Estates VP = 17,400 cases.

We got into much more detail and statistical analysis and had the chance to ask lots of questions.  Our group learned that the Symington’s were the first to introduce robotic lagares in 1998 and now have sixteen of them located at four of their properties.  For the 2003 Vintage Ports, production utilizing the robotics amounted to sixty percent (>1.3 million liters) while traditional lagares made up the balance.  As the technology is still quite new, this change from foot treading to robotics is remarkable; given the typical glacial pace of change in the Douro.

Our sincere appreciation goes to Paul, for a remarkably stimulating and informative session.  We then joined Dominic, Peter, Paul and Johnny Symington for lunch in the Graham’s Lodge private dining room.  Lunch was exceptional as were the wines.  Special thanks to Dominic for devoting an entire afternoon to our group tasting and for providing some very special offerings. 

Due to the huge number of Ports we tasted during our semi-formal tasting afterwards (30+ VPs), all tasting notes will be broken into 5 categories, exactly as they were poured 

1. SINGLE QUINTA VINTAGE PORTS:  a mini-horizontal of 2001 SQVPs and more -

1995 Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha Vintage Port – This is the property used as the backbone for Warre’s Ports.  I will never forget my first visit to this quaint and quiet Quinta in May of 1994.  Medium dark ruby color with intriguing notes of cassis, mocha and blackberry.  This medium-bodied Cavadinha provides dark berry fruit and chocolate flavours with good grip and a noteworthy finish, with just a touch of spirit.      90 points (10/26/05)

2001 Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha Vintage Port – Light ruby color with lifted red berry and fresh floral scents.  This is a delightfully approachable young SQVP that offers elegance along with spice, cedar and raspberry flavors, along with a smooth seamless quality and gentle palate presence.  This VP delivers lots of pleasure and light, round tannins that appear on the generous finish. 91 points (10/26/05)

1996 Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port – You never forget your first and Bomfim was my first Quinta stay over a decade ago.  This little known and vastly underappreciated vintage (which came on the heels of 1994 & 1995) produced some fine SQVPs.  The Bomfim is a fully opaque magenta colored wine.  It provides a great sense of minerality on the nose, as well as black licorice and dense, ripe plum flavors that are quite soft and texturally pleasing.  The medium tannins are noticed on the lengthy aftertaste that is slightly marred by alcohol on the finish.  89 points (10/26/05)

2001 Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port – There is a beautiful purplish-ruby hue to this youngster.  The aromatics are a bit reticent and dark berry, tar and alcohol are coaxed by vigorous swirling for a few minutes.  A very approachable young VP, even softer in the mouth than the 1996, with delicious plum and boysenberry that linger long on the palate.  Not one for the long term but very enjoyable today while waiting for the 2000s to come around.  91 points (10/26/05)

1998 Dow’s Senhora da Ribeira Vintage Port – My first taste of Senhora’s fruit which comes across with a very dark inky purple tone.  This property was first acquired by Dow’s in 1890 and along with Quinta do Bomfim, makes up the backbone of the Dow VPs.  Senhora da Ribeira is located in the most Eastern section of the Douro Superior, which is close to the Spanish border and receives very little rainfall and intense heat in the summer.  The vines get stressed and the Ports reflect their terroir.  Smoky and fresh floral notes with rich raspberry and dense strawberry flavors that are almost jammy, with chewy tannins and an intensity that I enjoyed.   This would be a nice addition to the cellar.  92 points (10/26/05)  

2001 Dow’s Senhora da Ribeira Vintage Port – This property was re-purchased by the Symington Family in 1998 on the 200^th anniversary of Dow’s establishment.  It shows a fully opaque dark red color.  Beguiling nose of red berry fruits and grenadine syrup, while delivering dark cherry and pomegranate flavors that are tart and rustic.  There is a tad too much heat which blemished the modest length of the aftertaste and overall enjoyment.  It was hard for me to decipher if this is due to the youth or not.  87 points (10/26/05)

1996 Graham’s Malvedos Vintage Port – I was glad to get to try this wine as a friend back home had told me to find a bottle.  Wild earthy aroma as well as a mocha and blueberry note.  The palate delivers a sweet and dominant boysenberry profile that is reinforced by zesty acidity and ripe tannins.  This should make for solid drinking when it reaches 20 years old.   Powerful.  91 points (10/26/05)

2001 Graham’s Malvedos Vintage Port – Fully opaque shade of magenta.  A somewhat tight nose that came around to provide hints of violets, anise and cassis.  Big tannins were the first thing I noticed when tasting this VP.  The sweet blackberry fruit and milk chocolate are tasty but lack mid-palate interest.  Good length to the sweet yet simple finish.   90 points (10/26/05)

1997 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port – “Wow” was my first impression when sniffing and sipping this wine.  Impenetrable opacity to this wine’s appearance.  An herbal note and straight forward violet aromas punched my proboscis.  A massive wine, yet more approachable than expected from the ink in the glass, with ripe, chalky tannins but otherwise a gorgeous mouth feel.  Almost syrupy but the acidity prevents the viscous black currant fruit from seeming cloying.  With all of this, the best part of this Port is the sensational length and complexity to the aftertaste.  If you own a case, open a bottle tomorrow.  If you own a single bottle, wait fifteen to twenty years and drink it when it’s more mature.  94+ points (10/26/05)

2001 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port – Inky black-purple tinge.  Purple fruit essence with a touch of anise provides the initial intrigue.  More of a red fruit persuasion and much softer and easy to drink now than the 1997 tasted next to it.  It has modestly ripe tannins and it’s a gentle, approachable young Port with a medium length.  This is a Vesuvio with finesse, which is not how I normally describe this producer’s Vintage Port offerings.   90 points (10/26/05)

1995 Smith Woodhouse Madalena Vintage Port – Smith Woodhouse was founded in 1784, bought by Graham's in 1960 and then became part of the Symington portfolio when they purchased Graham's in 1970.  The Madalena vineyard site lies by the Rio Torto (twisted river) and 45% of the ten hectares at Madalena are dedicated to Tinta Barroca.  Dark ruby in color, the fresh rose petal and raspberry notes are lifted by a citrus aroma.  The red berry fruit and sweet mocha flavor is interwoven with a nice balance of acidity and gentle tannins which make this VP very easy to enjoy now, although it will reward cellaring for another five to ten years.  91 points (10/26/05)

2001 Smith Woodhouse Madalena Vintage Port – Very dark and with a magenta color, this Madalena provides an intense violet aromatic profile with a hint of licorice.  Young and authoritative, with ripe blackberry fruit that has powerful tannins and a well-knit structure.  This needs time to soften and is no where near as approachable as the 1995 Vintage. 90 points (10/26/05)

1999 Quinta de Roriz Vintage Port – Owned by the van Zeller family for 190 years and now João van Zeller has partnered with the Symington Family to market the Roriz Ports and Douro wines.  Medium dark ruby color leads to a reticent nose that is not offering much beyond plum and chocolate notes.  I enjoyed the ripe plum and sweet cassis flavors that depicted a medium body and a generous mouthful of ripe tannins on the mid-length aftertaste.   91 points (10/26/05)

2001 Quinta de Roriz Vintage Port – Inky centered with a ruby rim, this Roriz offered lively violet and licorice aromas.  The blackberry fruit was ripe and dense.  This drinks well now but shows some prominent alcohol on the finish.  86 points (10/26/05)

2. VINTAGE PORTS FROM 1980 – On May 11th 1994, James Symington told me to buy all of the 1980 Dow & Graham’s I could afford, while we had lunch at the Factory House.  I have always been appreciative of that sage advice.

 1980 Warre Vintage Port – Medium ruby color with vibrant raspberry, mocha and scents of cedar.  It shows more youthful vitality than the 1977 at this point.  The wood offers up some interesting spicy nuances and the chocolate adds some complexity to the plum fruit flavors intermingled with the round tannins on the smooth finish.  89 points (10/26/05)

1980 Dow Vintage Port – Dark to medium ruby color, a fine bottle of “my favorite Port of the vintage.”  Gorgeous aromas of mint, tar and black cherry keep my nose to the glass.  A perfectly balanced Port, young at heart and in a word, harmonious.  At 25 years old, it is still on the upswing and shows dense plum and cherry flavors with sinful chocolate that weighs in on the finish, which is long and smooth.  The structure of this wine has allowed it to show well for a decade now, with at least another to continue improving and with a long plateau thereafter.  The Dow ’80 is one of my top ten wines of the decade. 93+ points (10/26/05)

1980 Graham Vintage Port – Medium garnet color, this Graham offers spicy cinnamon, raspberry and licorice aromas.  The nose might offer red fruits but the palate was densely packed with ripe blackberry fruit.  This drinks well now and shows some prominent ripe tannins on the finish and a touch of spirit; nothing another decade can’t cure.  90 points (10/26/05)

1980 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port – Inky magenta color, the nose presents chocolate covered strawberry and licorice aromas.  This Smith Woodhouse is a big, fruit forward delicious VP with a great, youthful core of dark berry fruits and solid structural components for continued improvement in the cellar.  The tannins are equal to the task and it provides a fine juicy aftertaste.  92 points (10/26/05)

3. EIGHT STRAIGHT 2003 VPs – after horizontals of 2001 followed by 1980, it was going to be tough going back to taste an even younger vintage … but it certainly was the way to go.  I was concerned that after this flight our group would also be horizontal, but they were troopers!

View my article on nearly 50 cask samples:  2003 Vintage Port Forecast (from July 2005)

2003 Warre Vintage Port – Opaque purple hue. Vibrant violets, pomegranate and red berry fruit notes join the party.  One of the finest examples of Warre in recent decades, this shows great promise.  It delivers sweet, juicy red berry fruit, which is smooth on the palate and has the tannins to go long and reach the end zone.   The tannins and acidity provide the deft balance and a long lingering aftertaste is a significant strength of this VP.  Best after 2025 when it is able to vote.   92+ points (10/26/05)

2003 Dow Vintage Port – The epitome of an “impenetrable appearance”.  Rose petals and violets waft from within the glass and the nose is just fantastic.  Seemingly more fruity than typical for Dow, the palate provides powerful plum and cassis with a mouth feel that takes a minute to figure out.  Everything is big here: the fruit is ripe and concentrated, the tannins are chewy and astringent, while the acidity acts as the life support system at its core.  No reason to touch your Dow’s unless the curiosity has forced your hand, otherwise leave these be … for 2-3 decades or more.  I still say it is the best young Dow VP I have ever tasted and that is saying a lot!  95+ points (10/26/05)

2003 Graham Vintage Port – This is a WOW wine and the one wine in this lineup which has improved the most from my cask sample evaluations back in July.  Worthy of the upper tier of the vintage with the balance and breeding to achieve greatness in the future.  Massive extract and fully opaque, this youthful “take no prisoners” Vintage Port is your next Portuguese idol!  It is more giving than it was three months ago, just after bottling, both on the nose and palate.  It also has lost a drop of that spiritual influence from the aguardente.  I dig the fleshy fruit and fabulous flavors which are seamless and vibrant. 96 points (10/26/05)

2003 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port – Oh my!  This immediately brought a smile to my face as I knew this had to be the Vesuvio.  It’s a loaded 12 gauge shotgun ready for skeet.  This is built for a half century of drinking pleasure fulfillment.  Big bold cassis and blackberry flavors border on jammy but therein rushes the acidity to keep this in check. The tannins which were so prevalent in the cask sample are still huge but show up later in the deal and set up a sumptuous smorgasbord of sensorial experience on the best finish of all 8 VPs in this tasting.  It will be very had to keep my bottles secure as this is so darn delicious.  I am glad to retaste this to confirm that I nailed this one blind from cask and found this as one of the greatest 2003 VPs made.  If I was under 45, I’d buy another case.  Make sure you own at least a six pack.   97 points (10/26/05)

2003 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port – Opaque as the evening sky sans moonlight.  Fresh violets and grape on the nose with a spicy character I could not put my finger on.  The body has fleshed out a bit with plump plum and rhubarb flavors which are texturally pleasing and a bit on the dry side.  A viscous, chewy Port with punishing tannins which obviously need lots of time to deliver the full Woodhouse potential down the road a decade or two.  Moderate length and a touch of spirit compromise the finish today but I did not get this from the earlier bottle I spent time with.  92 points (10/26/05)

2003 Gould Campbell Vintage Port – Dark and inky presence in the glass, delivering smoky prune, cassis and vanilla aromatics.  This Gould reminds me of the 1983 in its youth with similar concentration, intensity and verve.  Dense black currant and plum juice with a touch of spice, round out the flavor profile which is supported by a cast of astringent tannins that are unforgiving at this point.  The alcohol still protrudes here but less so than my earlier experience with this wine.   91+ points (10/26/05)

2003 Quarles Harris Vintage Port – My first time trying this specific 2003 VP.  Deep crimson colored wine.  Softer than I would have expected.  The fresh floral and mocha notes are pleasant enough and segue to the generous palate which exhibits very sweet prune and date flavors with a very soft approach.  Moderate tannins and some oak poke out on the finish.  This will integrate with time, but I don’t see this as having long term aging potential.  Nonetheless, it’s a well-made easy-to-drink VP. 91 points (10/26/05)

2003 Quinta de Roriz Vintage Port – Dark purple color, exudes a distinct and pure violet essence on the nose.  Extremely sweet, generous red fruit that is overtly tannic and showing a subtle balance of acidity as well.  Although there is a spirity character stands out on the finish, it does so with great length.  Should improve early on and drink best from 2015-2020. 1,650 cases produced.  90 points (10/26/05)

THE SYMINGTON’S LINEUP
© by ROY HERSH 10-26-05

4. VINIFICATION TECHNIQUES – I took brief notes of 3 cask samples of 2004, so I will describe the tasting instead.  The first sample was vinified in a traditional lagar using 2004 VP grapes, the second using grapes that were handled in a robotic lagar and the final sample was vinified by employing “plunger tanks” which are used by other Port producers and in other wine regions of the world.  The “plungers” is a mechanized method of punching down the cap.  The robotic lagares are an invention that the Symington’s designed and implemented.  Without getting into detailed notes suffice it to say that my basic impression was that I liked the traditional lagar sample the best and found it the most evenly balanced on the palate.  The robotic lagar juice provided the best aromatics and richest color and seemed softer in my mouth, while the plunger juice was slightly sweeter and had the most dominant tannins of the three.  There was more to the experiment and it was fascinating to evaluate how these three differed, using various sensorial perceptions.

5. HISTORICAL GREAT PORTS – We started out with a 50 year old youngster and then moved on to a Port that few visitors ever get to try, a Colheita that’s never been commercially released from a vintage when Chester A. Arthur was (the 21^st) President of the USA.  Now back to Portugal and a pair of great Ports.

1955 Graham’s Vintage Port – What is nice about drinking old bottles at a Port Lodge in Gaia is that you don't have to worry about provenance!  The color was a medium ruby that showed beautifully with only slight bricking on the rim.  This was my fourth experience with this bottling in the past 18 months.  There has been significant bottle variation between those bottles and it shows in the color as well as the nose and palate.  This Graham’s possessed a fine note of raspberry, with mint and lavender undertones and just the slightest touch of spirit.  What a deliciously sweet and decadent Port with soft plum, dates and hazelnuts and a sumptuous mouth feel.  This is a wine with finesse and a sweet and expressive aftertaste.  Well stored bottles like this are so much fun to drink.  94 points (10/26/05)

1882 A.J.S. Reserve Port – This is the kind of story I will tell my grandkids some day.  This juice was vinified in 1882 and sat in a Rio Torto farmer’s property until 1970 (the same year the Symington’s bought Graham’s).  They bought all five smaller than normal pipes of this incredible nectar that the farmer was selling to pay for his daughter’s wedding.  The Symington’s never did bottle the juice and so it sits, at least two of the casks do, in an office just outside of the tasting room.  We were most fortunate to be invited to try this fabulous treat.  Coincidentally, or maybe not, the 1882 vintage was vinified during latter stages of Phylloxera in the Douro, also was the year that Andrew James Symington arrived in Oporto from Scotland.  He was the 1st to join the Port trade (by marriage, to Beatrice Atkinson) which is now in the hands of Peter from the third generation and six other Symington’s from the fourth.  Some members of the 5^th generation are close to being ready to take the reigns, or at least try to earn them.

This stunning Colheita looks like coffee or darkest amber in my Port glass with a yellow meniscus.  The nose is intricately woven together with ethereal treacle, crème brulee and penetrating honeyed aromas.  In the mouth this is just liquid velvet that is concentrated with marzipan, hazelnuts and rich, melt-in-your-mouth butterscotch.  This is a gloriously rich and refined Port with intense laser guided acidity providing perfect balance.  How does one score a Port experience like this?  98 points (10/26/05)

How does one duplicate a visit like this?  Although we were in need of tooth brushing and a nap, the group was so very much appreciative of the incredible hospitality shown to us by the Symington family.  They provided a most memorable experience to say the least.  Thirty Ports plus the wines we had at lunch, simply incredible.  Having face time with the members of the family, priceless!

Back to the hotel for rest and relaxation and to prepare for a very special dinner at the Bull & Bear restaurant.  Although the group knew we were going to one of Oporto’s finest dining establishments, they did not know that we had arranged for David Guimaraens (Oenologist of the Fladgate Partnership) to join us.  The restaurant was just finishing off retrofitting their bar area where they will serve a Portuguese tapas-style menu and lots of great wine by the glass selections.  We ate in the dining room and David was very generous in answering lots of questions about some very esoteric Port topics.  Thanks again David!  We had a number of nice Portuguese table wines that evening my favorite of which was the 2001 Quinta do Crasto Reserva, Douro Red. 

After dinner, we headed back to our hotel to pack our things.  The following day, we were to head up river to the Alto Douro and provide our guests with their first ever Quinta visits and the opportunity to set foot into the schistous soil of the Douro vineyards.  It will take one more newsletter to capture the flavor of our time in the Douro.  Thanks for your patience, as putting the entire trip into one newsletter would then be a magazine.  The Douro deserves its own space.  Look for FTLOP newsletter #14 in a few weeks.

February 2006

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