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Archive Index Decanting Vintage Port: The "Hersh Method" by Roy Hersh - www.fortheloveofport.com © copyright January 2006
Much has been written about decanting bottles of Port, yet it all seems
so complicated and ritualistic. Various traditional decanting regimens
have been employed for hundreds of years, with all sorts of pomp and
circumstance. We will explore some of these time-honored methods and
understand the benefits of decanting bottles of Port, especially Vintage
Port and the reasons for doing so. Just when it all begins to make
sense, I’ll toss tradition aside and describe a very simple and
straightforward process known as the “Hersh method” which I use 100% of
the time for decanting bottled-aged Port and more specifically Vintage
Port.
TRADITION, TRADITION
So what is necessary in preparation for
decanting a bottle-aged Port? The conventional wisdom has always been to
stand up the bottle of Port for a day or three, which allows the
sediment to fall to the bottom of the bottle. The pleasure begins with
the process of removing the cork from the bottle. Some people like to
have fun and try their skill at removing corks from ancient bottles of
VP in one piece. Even those who are very experienced with older Ports
break corks before extracting them from the bottle neck. There are all
types of cork screws, Ah-so extractors, Screw Pulls, Lever Pulls and
even the infamous Port tong. However, it pays to experiment with a
number of these tools to find out which one works best for you. Do not
get frustrated when you find that Port corks crumble or break inside the
bottle neck. Using a Port tong takes practice and it’s an easy skill
once mastered.
Basically you take the device (pictured to the right) and heat it until white hot and then it is applied to the bottle neck below the cork. An ice cube, cold wet towel or even a wet feather may be used to “crack” the bottle by shocking the glass with cold along the hot seam. This is mostly done for show and is a fun way to impress onlookers, but does require a bit of practice to become proficient. It is great to try this on a magnum of Vintage Port! Now that the cork has been extracted, it is time to remove the sediment from the bottle. In the Port Lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia where the bottling and subsequent storage takes place, a white “splash” mark was painted below where the label would appear. This is not done anywhere else in the wine world and actually is not even seen as much (with VP) as was the case in the past. This mark shows the cellar master or consumer which side of the bottle should face up when stored horizontally to keep the cork moist. It allows for the sediment to settle onto the lower side and form a crust. That is why Port lovers have always stood up their bottles to get the sediment to slide down the side of the bottle before they start to decant.
We are finally ready to follow the traditional path to decanting a bottle-aged Port to remove the sediment. First we need to have a clean decanter and I can’t stress enough the importance of ensuring that there is no soap residue or musty smell in the decanter. I always give a quick rinse with warm water, followed by cold water and do my best to shake out all the excess beads of water. Some people feel the need to then rinse the decanter with a cheap ruby Port to “season” the decanter. Make sure you are in a room with good lighting, so you can see the sediment. The old ways die hard and I still come across Port enthusiasts who use the “candling” method by holding a candle beneath the bottle neck, since the old bottles were made of transparent green, brown or charcoal colored glass. It was then possible to see into the bottle neck when the sediment was about to breach. Others prefer a flashlight and one serious wine geek friend of mine does utilize an antique decanting cradle, replete with a crank handle, as pictured here. Personally, I don’t use such “devices” but we’re still examining the traditional methods at this point.
In reality, all that is required is
a steady hand and a clean decanter with adequate lighting and although
not as impressive to watch, it works. The trick is pouring by hand into
a decanter in one steady stream to prevent the “wave effect” disturbing
the dregs while pouring. Stop pouring when the sediment reaches the
bottle’s neck. Some folks prefer to use a sterling or silver plated Port
funnel, but I’ve also seen muslin, a clean pair of stockings (no joke!)
or unbleached coffee filters to remove the sediment. If you have a
steady hand and practice a few times, you’ll be able to extract the
majority of the liquid without the fine sediment winding up in the
decanter. There is nothing as satisfying as pouring a crystal clear
glass of mature Vintage Port from a decanter, except actually drinking
it.
I suggest folding the cheesecloth in
half so you have 2 layers (double again for 4 layers, with older VPs
that tend to have much finer sediment) and insert it inside a Port
funnel. You can then pour the entire bottle through the cheesecloth and
funnel this way in a very short amount of time. You no longer have to
pay attention to when the sediment starts coming out and even a Port
lover without a steady hand can manage this feat. In fact you want to
pour every possible drop into the cheesecloth supported by the Port
funnel, which has a fine mesh screen as a back up. IF you’re in a real
rush, you can always double decant right back into the bottle (after
washing it thoroughly) to take to a wine tasting or along with you to a
restaurant. Just pour into a decanter when you get there. Simple as can
be? You betcha! Not all Ports react the same, but here are some specific improvements that can be achieved by extending the decanting time of Vintage Ports:
One of the most enjoyable facets of extended decanting is experiencing the metamorphosis of the Port as it evolves in the decanter. I take some small sips along the way and try to perceive the changes mentioned in the dynamics above and write down my observations. If I "plan" to let the Port decant for 10 hours and sense that it is ready at 6 hours instead, then I pour it back into the original bottle (rinsed out), re-cork it and then pour from the bottle when it is time to be served. As
to long decanting times, I want to be clear, for the record: I don't
believe in decanting Ports for more than 12 hours, except for very
specific evaluation purposes. I can count the examples on one hand
where I have exceeded that limit. Cask samples and current vintage Ports
aside, 12 hours in decanter is plenty as a maximum threshold.
Conversely, there are Vintage Ports that I will only have in decanter
for 1-2 hours too. So my recommended decanting "window" is between 1-12
hours for VPs (primarily) depending on vintage and Producer. Extended
decanting of Port and especially VP is a good thing. But going too far,
say 24 hours of decanting time, in my opinion, serves only to strip the
Port of its true beauty while dumbing down the tannins and negating too
much of the structural components of the wine. Some adhere to that
practice for the sake of having something softer and (arguably) better
in terms of aromatic and flavor profiles. I prefer to allow the
freshness and natural components of a Port to be enhanced by decanting,
not to alter its entire character. 7
years or less: *10-12 hours of decanting time *Please note that the above times are generalizations and specifics of vintage and producer may often cause the above to vary. The above decanting times are meant as a guideline and not as an absolute range. For example, I’d decant a 1985 Graham’s and a 1983 Warre’s for 8 hours and 5 hours, respectively. A 1970 Fonseca or Niepoort, I would decant for 6-8 hours, while a Taylor 1945 for approximately five hours. Your mileage may vary.
January 2006 |
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You
will never forget the first time you experience drinking a glass of Port
that has not been properly decanted. Port consumed without first
removing the sediment would be akin to drinking a Starbuck's cup of
coffee without removing the grounds. But there is more to decanting than
just the removal of sediment, as necessary as that procedure is. The
other reason for decanting a Vintage Port is to provide it the time to
“flesh out” by allowing it to come in contact with oxygen. A great VP
may age well for 20 -100 years and on rare occasions even longer. When
the bottle is opened, these VPs need time to blossom and aerate.
