San Leonardo 30 Year Old Tawny Port – Bottled 2008, but if I remember the story correctly, there was only one pipe of this wine which I believe originated in 1972 or so. Dark amber color with golden edge. This was better the second and third day after it was opened as it really needed a lot of air time. Delicately perfumed nose of ripe peaches, dried apricots, almond paste and golden raisins. Although delicious right at cellar temperature, this gains heft as it warms up and I like it cool but not cold, to maintain the lovely acidity level, but also to enjoy the thick nectar like quality of this 30 year old. Smooth and creamy texture which is a bonus feature after tasting this beauty, filled with dried fruits, pralines, ripe nectarine and lush caramel. Talk about complexity, the finish on this wine is nothing short of incredible with a lingering and complicated aftertaste that rivals most great Madeira. Maybe the finest 30 year old Port, period … but I’d certainly like to have this side by side with the Vista Alegre 30 in a great taste-off. Wow, I never tire of this wine!
1952 Dalva Golden White White Colheita Port - No matter how many times I try this wine, it is never enough. Each time I do, it is to share the wealth with a friend or family member, (in this case my brother) or those that come along on our tours of Portugal. Gorgeous to look at, with an evocative nose of citrus, sugared hazelnuts and honey. The unrelenting essence of this Dalva haunts the soul and caresses the palate with layer upon layer of well-knit flavors offering nutty nuances, sultry citrus and semi-sweet crème Brule at its core. I rarely have this wine open for more than a few hours before it disappears, but we decided to put a couple of glasses away for the next day. It was even better. More viscous with a richness that I rarely have experienced on any “first day” of consumption. It finishes like a thoroughbred thundering around the final turn.
1980 Dow Vintage Port – Rich Beeken’s birthday bash bottle. Extremely dark crimson color with a light ruby/pink meniscus. Ooh that smell; currants and great minerality and a touch of herbal essence. This is an excellent bottle of the ’80 Dow’s, which reveals enormous weight and density in the mouth. It’s even more revealing on the palate than the nose, offering chewy, sweet dark berry fruit that finishes dry with amazing length on the aftertaste. As big as this Port portrays itself to be, it remains in balance and is exceedingly soft texturally, with very genteel tannins. This should drink well any time through 2030 and in my opinion, is still the best VP of 1980.
1977 Taylor’s Vintage Port – From an OWC purchased in early 1990’s. Decanted for 8 hours (we ate early) prior to consumption; poured for my extended family after our Thanksgiving meal. Not as dark as expected, but a brilliant shade of cranberry. From the moment it was decanted, this had a fabulous fragrance of fresh flowers, lavender, licorice and Sultana raisins. Once poured, it was immediately approachable, exuding power and excellent structure. Intermixed notions of black cherry and plum with prominent yet round tannins. Opened in deference to Jenny’s birth year and Taylor’s birthday, everyone loved this bottle. The aftertaste was long and profound with a very smooth finish. This particular bottle was more evolved than others I have enjoyed recently.
2003 Quinta do Noval LBV Port – An impressive effort; displaying inky, opaque magenta from core to meniscus. Heady accents of licorice, herbs, spirit and ripe blackberries provide pleasure and kept my nose planted in the glass. It’s the unfiltered variety of LBV, which Noval is well known for and is a heavy hitter that drinks more like a young Vintage Port. It was at its best the day after it was decanted. Rich, sweet cassis and blackberry syrup roll over the tongue gently, as the acidity keeps things focused, and the grip is firm yet not astringent. Noval’s ’03 is possibly the most “complete” LBV since their exalted 1994. The finish shows great length and pedigree, with a hint of youthful spirit, which should settle down with another year or two of bottle age. Enjoy it now or over the next 15-20 years. Possibly the finest LBV I've tasted from Noval since the 1997.
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