We ventured up to the Douro to experience
growing season 2009 and also to visit some new properties and old friends too.
In March, temperatures reached into the low 30 degree range, with lots of rain and cold weather throughout the month of April. It is now in the 30 degree range in both the Baixo and Cima Corgo area and in the Douro Superior we experienced 32-33 degrees C. It will certainly be a smaller yielding vintage and flowering is quite late and should be somewhere in the range of May 20th (+/- 5 days) in the majority of areas in the Douro.
We spent some time in the brand new Museum of the Douro and the group stayed with Mario as I had two appointments set up, one to meet the Director of the Museum to discuss a possible project and then to meet David Eley from A Good Nose.
Afterwards, we went to the Douro In for a fabulous lunch and most of our guests wanted a nap after that fantastic meal which included many wines from the ever improving hands of Maria Serpa Pimentel of Quinta da Pacheca fame. Every year her Douro wines get better and better, after a somewhat shaky start.
We headed to visit Pacheca which was close by. Lots of renovations going on as they're in the final stages of having their hotel built and it was nice to see how much progress has taken place since our last visit. We had a wonderful tasting of many Ports including both the 2007 VP cask sample and the 2008 as well. It is way too early to be drinking the 2008, that is for sure ... wow!
Next on our list was a visit to Quinta do Portal and although we saw their new and enormous Armazem last Oct., it was now filled with wine. Each of the two main floors is the size of a soccer field, seriously, and filled with casks, balseiros, toneis and unbelievable amounts of finished bottles. Impressive to say the least and the only place larger than the gigantic Q d Napoles, considering this is only one of the Portal buildings and is only for wine storage. We also went through their ultra modern wine/Port making facility next door which is all gravity fed and interesting to see.
Dinner was filled with fine wines paired with each of their dishes, they have a new and fabulous chef who is incredibly just 19 years old. By far the best meal we've had in the Douro EVER. This kid can cook! We had many other wines from a really terrific 5 Euro white wine called (2008) Relato to a Late Harvest blend of Moscatel and Viosinho which was stunning. The best DOC wine of this trip was a 2000 Quinta do Portal Grande Reserva Tinto which was sexy, smoky and texturally perfect, with a remarkably long and delicious aftertaste. Then it was onto sweet Moscatel and then finally onto a slew of Port wine. This was a tremendously fun visit and a great way to end our first day in the Douro.
On Wednesday a.m. we had the great opportunity to meet the famous Oscar Quevedo of

fame. He is a regular poster and also won 5th prize in the 2008 For The Love Of Port PORTraits photo contest. I will do a much more extensive view into this visit including a segment on his own Blog, but let's just say that it was like coming home to visit family, yet it was our first time ever meeting one another. We got to see the entire property and walked the vineyards for a bit, getting a better feel for the fabulous Quinta Senhora do Rosario that is the actual name of Quevedo's quinta. We learned the history and about the viticulture and I was thrilled to meet Oscar (only 25!!!) and his lovely winemaker, who just happens to be his sister, Claudia who has been a key part of recent questions in the newsletter aimed at the Port trade. We also met their parents who own the entire operation. It is a true family affair.
The tasting was complete and we had a chance to experience many LBVs and Vintage Ports before heading to lunch. Delicious Cabrito and more, accompanied by very good Douro wines and then it was back to trying some cask samples and finally some young and old Colheitas from their property and last but not least Tawny with an indication of age. Even though we had spent five hours with the Quevedo family, it was hard saying goodbye with our new friends and I promised Oscar that we would be back to visit him in the Douro Superior ... they're quite close to Vargellas actually.
To wrap up our time in the Douro we went to Quinta do Panascal for a redux of our recent visit a year or so ago, but this time ... no headphones! We did have a great comparative tasting of 1977 Taylor vs. Fonseca, 1987 Vargellas vs. Panascal SQVPs and finally, the 1997 Taylor vs. Fonseca. We all agreed, that recent reports that 1997 T & F were maturing early ... were way off the mark as these are young and lively Vintage Ports with MANY years ahead of them. The Vargellas is still killer, but the Panascal was (not) surprisingly very very good too. The 1977 Fonseca was a lighter to medium version of what many of us have experienced lately, albeit these were only opened an hour before our arrival. I still found this on the upswing when we finally had to depart, but it was opening up very nicely. Like the majority of the group, I preferred the 1977 Taylor to the Fonseca and this was a really glorious and extremely youthful bottle of this benchmark VP.
Well that almost brings you up to date. We arrived in Madeira yesterday and had one great visit and then a Fado-infused dining experience which everyone loved, before a much needed long walk back to the hotel. More on that visit in my next segment.