Event: SAMMAMISH PORT CLUB - BLACK GLASS TASTING

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Stewart T.
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Event: SAMMAMISH PORT CLUB - BLACK GLASS TASTING

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SAMMAMISH PORT CLUB - BLACK GLASS TASTING - North Bend, Washington (4/19/2025)

For this Sammamish Port Club tasting, Lisa suggested that we do something really challenging - a blind lineup served entirely in black tasting glasses. Without the ability to see the wine in the glass, we removed one of the most influential elements in evaluating Port—the color. No visual hints of oxidative age, no obvious depth to suggest a young Vintage Port, and no telltale amber rim to help distinguish style.

This setup forced us to rely solely on aroma, palate, structure, and finish. Every wine became a puzzle. Was the oxidative note a sign of age or barrel maturation? Did the freshness of fruit suggest a youthful Ruby or just a well-preserved Colheita? Textural cues and balance became even more critical, and we found ourselves debating acidity and tannin integration more deeply than usual.

The black glass format led to some surprising misreads—Ports we thought were White Ports turned out to be Rose Ports. Some we thought were top tier producers turned out to be good bottles from a mid-tier producer. The format challenged assumptions, stripped away visual bias, and reminded us how much we lean on color as a shortcut for style and age. Where we are normally good at narrowing Port to identify Producers and get close to vintages, on several occasions here we were debating whether it was a Tawny or a White Port!

As always, the post-reveal discussion was lively, and the experience left us with renewed respect for blind tasting as both a discipline and a humbling form of exploration.
  • 1985 Smith Woodhouse Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Tasted blind in black glasses. Aromatically, I get tropical notes like grilled pineapple on the nose, so I am learning towards this being a White Port. Now that the nose has opened some, there are more notes of dried cherry, leather, and a dusty cocoa note - classic mature Ruby Port signatures - but with a certain lifted element, maybe a touch of eucalyptus or mint. There is a savory undercurrent too, almost like old cedar or worn tobacco pouch. On the palate, the wine shows medium weight with soft edges, fully resolved tannins, and a warm, lingering finish of dark chocolate and spiced fig. The acidity is present but not sharp - more of a mellow backbone. Without the benefit of seeing the color, I find myself leaning toward an older Ruby style—likely a mature Vintage Port given the complexity, tertiary development, and persistent structure. The fruit is still there, but it felt integrated, secondary. (92 pts.)
  • 1983 KWV Vintage Port - South Africa
    Tasted blind in black glasses. The nose opens with dark fruit preserves—blueberry compote and plum—alongside hints of molasses, leather, and a touch of menthol. This initially seems like it is either a Vesuvio (with the blueberry notes) or perhaps a Vargellas (with the mint notes). However, as the wine has been opening up more, the nose has drifted away from these familiar aromas and I am pretty certain that this is not one of those two producers. There is a rustic quality to this wine, so it might be from a lower-tier producer. On the palate, it's medium-bodied with soft edges, showing stewed cherry, date, and cocoa, backed by modest acidity and faded tannins. There's a savory, earthy quality in the background that suggests age, but the fruit still lingers. This was revealed as South African Port. (90 pts.)
  • 1984 Smith Woodhouse Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Tasted blind in black glasses. This was decanted for 24 hours. Aromas of dried plum, cedar, and dark chocolate on the nose, joined by hints of leather and mint. The palate is soft and rounded, showing cherry, fig, and baking spice, with smooth tannins and balanced acidity. A subtle earthy note lingers beneath the fruit, and the finish hums with warm spice and cocoa. (91 pts.)
  • 2003 Kopke Porto White Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Tasted blind in black glasses. The nose is a little confusing, as I get both red fruits like strawberry, but also get some hints of tropical notes. As this has gotten more air the tropical fruits are more pronounced, so I think this is likely a White Port. On the palate, it's rich and smooth, with layers of golden raisin, caramelized tropical fruit, and salted almond. Acidity keeps it lively, and the finish carries a warm note of toffee and citrus. (93 pts.)
  • 1992 Vinhos Oscar Quevedo Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Bottled in 2019. Aromas of dried fig, orange peel, and toasted almond lead the nose, supported by hints of caramel, soft spice, and aged wood. The palate is smooth and gently textured, with flavors of golden raisin, hazelnut, and burnt sugar balanced by bright acidity. A touch of salinity adds lift, and the finish lingers with warm notes of toffee and citrus zest. (91 pts.)
  • 1991 J.H. Andresen Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Tasted blind in black glasses. The nose is clean and composed, with some noticeable oxidative notes, suggestive of a Tawny Port. I get some interesting dried apricot, golden raisin, and almond skin on the nose. On the palate, it's medium-bodied with nuts, dried fig, and baked apple. I think this might be a Colheita, as it lacks the really smooth edges that I usually notice with blended Tawnies. Acidity is well-balanced, giving freshness with just a touch of sharpness. The finish is elegant, with notes of toasted hazelnut and citrus peel. (94 pts.)
  • NV Offley Rosé Porto - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Tasted blind in black glasses. The nose opens light and fresh, with notes of kiwi, lime zest, and a faint floral lift—leaning more toward the profile of a youthful White Port than anything else. On the palate, it’s bright and slightly sweet, with flavors of green melon, citrus, and a touch of peach. The texture is clean, with modest acidity and no heat or rough edges. On reveal, this turns out to be a Rosé Port—unexpected, as many Rosés I’ve tasted tend to show more overt spirit on the palate, which this one notably avoids. (88 pts.)
  • NV Agri-Roncão DR - 20 Year Old White Port - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Tasted blind in black glasses. Aromas of dried pineapple, orange peel, and toasted almond on the nose, layered with hints of vanilla and warm spice. The palate is silky and balanced, offering caramelized tropical fruit, salted cashew, and a touch of honeycomb. Acidity provides lift without sharpness, and the finish is long and nutty, with lingering notes of citrus and butterscotch. (93 pts.)
The black glass format led to some surprising misreads—Ports we thought were White Ports turned out to be Rose Ports. Some we thought were top tier producers turned out to be good bottles from a mid-tier producer. The format challenged assumptions, stripped away visual bias, and reminded us how much we lean on color as a shortcut for style and age. Where we are normally good at narrowing Port to identify Producers and get close to vintages, on several occasions here we were debating whether it was a Tawny or a White Port!

As always, the post-reveal discussion was lively, and the experience left us with renewed respect for blind tasting as both a discipline and a humbling form of exploration.

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