DAVID GUIMARAENS - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Join in on discussions with winemakers and other personalities in the Port, Madeira and Douro Wine trades.

Moderators: Glenn E., Roy Hersh

Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Moses Botbol wrote:
Guimaraens wrote:For example at Fonseca we have always focused on Bin 27 as our flagship Port for every day consumption, making it the leader of its segment both for quality and sales. At Taylor's we very much focus on our LBV, resulting in its magnificent quality. At the retail outlets and on-trade these sit very well side by side.
What about Croft?
At Croft we produce the Croft Distinction which is a more mature style of Reserve Ruby.
Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Derek T. wrote:David,

Have any decisions been made about the future of Quinta de Eira Velha as a source of Single Quinta Vintage Ports and, if so, under which of the TFP shippers would it operate?

Thanks
Derek
Derek,
Quinta de Eira Velha has produced some outstanding Ports, but we still have nothing to anounce regarding its destiny.

David
Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Andy Velebil wrote:David,
Thank you for your answer regarding Bin 27.

Since we're talking about declared vintages, 2000 vs. 2003 is often talked about with some people leaning toward 2000's being the overall better year for VP and some people leaning toward 2003. The years were characterized by very different growing seasons. Not referring to just TFP Vintage Ports, but the vintages overall, what year do you feel will produced the better VP for the long haul, 2000 or 2003, and why?

Andy,

I understand the differences in preference between the 2000's and 2003's. I always distinguish the vintage years between "ripening" years and "concentrating" years.
2000 was a ripening year in that the concentration and depth came from the natural ripening of the grapes from a relatively cooler growing season and lower yields. In years like these the freshness of fruit and lusciousness of palate characterises these vintages. I would compare the 2000 to years such as 1963 and 1977 in style.
2003 was a concentrating year, where a much hotter and drier growing season gives the concentration and depth, and where the firmness of tannins and riper fruit is the character of these vintages. I would compare the 2003's with years like 1966 and 1997 in style.

Both 2000 and 2003 have tremendous dimension, and I look forward to following their development over the next 20 years, I have a lot of confidence in them. I know it sounds commercial, but I truly do not think one will live for longer than the other, but they will develop in a different manner.

David
Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Edward Nemergut wrote:David:

Thanks for taking the time to answer these questions and be part of this forum: it's much appreciated.

I have two questions that I will hope will be fun to answer:

1) Of all the ports that you've personally made, is there one (or two) of which you are especially proud? (I recognize this is a difficult question: a bit like asking a father of many children to pick his favorite; however, I'm interested in your answer).

2) Along similar lines, we often talk of our favorite all time VPs? What pre-1995 VP's are among your favorites?

Thank you in advance for you thoughtful answers!

Edward,
I have answered in part this question in previous answers, and you are right, it is hard to do so without my words being interpreted the wrong way. I will attempt to answer this by choosing Ports I have made where not based on quality, but on having a special meaning to me.

1992 Taylor - the lesson over the 1991/1992 declaration. Quality rules!!
1994 Fonseca - the driving force behind making another Vintage to repeat its recognition.
1995 Vargellas Vinha Velha - the start of a very important lesson on complexity and combinations of grape varieties
2000 Taylor - An extraordinary Vintage Port interms of depth and Quality of Tannins
2001 Guimaraens - the proof that co-fermentation is the only way to make great Port
2003 Fonseca - Massive, ripe and is still as fresh and youthfull as when it was bottled.
2003 Croft - the return to its former glory, made in lagars.

Pre-1995 - the Fonseca 1963 is a bench-mark for me. 1948 Taylor is also something I intend to repeat.

David
Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Marco D. wrote:Congratulations on the 2003 Croft. Your hard work in Q. d. Roeda has indeed paid off. Is there a decision to only use Roeda fruit in Croft from now on, or is this a vintage by vintage decision?

Marco,
as you have seen Croft 2003 means a lot to me. Quinta da Roeda is a very large property in Pinhão and has a wide variation of vineyard types (old, medium age and relatively young), a wide variation of exposure/orientation, and differences in altitude, all along a significant stretch of the Douro river. This gives us a tremendous variation of Ports to work with, and all of which have a very distinctive style which we relate with Croft. Using other components will always remain an option, and can contribute greatly to the Croft blend, however Roeda is very much the heart and soul of a Croft Vintage.

David
Moses Botbol
Posts: 5923
Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:38 am
Location: Boston, USA

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Moses Botbol »

Guimaraens wrote: Pre-1995 - the Fonseca 1963 is a bench-mark for me. 1948 Taylor is also something I intend to repeat.

David
'48 Taylor is epic. How you would know if any vintage will hold up against it? Do you go back to the 50's and compare tasting notes to a more recent vintage?
Welsh Corgis | F1 |British Cars
Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Glenn E. wrote:I'm really enjoying reading all of the questions and your answers. Thanks again for coming to visit us!

As the regulars here know, I tend to prefer tawny Port over ruby Port. I do have a collection of Vintage Ports, but in my cellar it is rivaled in size by my collection of Colheitas. I guess I just like wood-aged Ports!

The Taylor 40 Year Old is one of the better 40s available. I have also seen a Fonseca 40 Year Old and a Croft 20 Year Old. The existence of these wood-aged Ports tells me that you have stocks of tawny Ports aging in your lodges, yet I never see any of it available as Colheita.

Is this a strategic decision by TFP? Is there any chance that we will some day see a Taylor, Fonseca, or Croft Colheita?

Glenn,
thankyou for making me return to aged Tawnies, I have been focusing a lot of attention on Vintage Port. Tawnies are delicious and very versatile, and there are many occasions where their "informality" make them easier to serve at the table than a Vintage. Yes the style is completely different, but you would probably compare an aged Tawny with a mature Vintage, older than 15 years old. Both are delicate and full of complex flavours to explore.

Traditionally the British Port houses reflected the quality and style of a particular year in a Vintage Port, and the Portuguese houses, who did not have as much of a tradition in Vintage, expressed the character of a year through the Colheita Tawny Ports.
We have very extensive stocks of aged Tawnies, and our very experienced blenders work these reserves over many years to blend the different house Tawnies to their respective styles. The virtue of a blended Aged Tawny, eg 20 or 40 Year Old, is the consistency of the product year after year.

We have no plans to launch any Colheita Tawny Ports.

David
Last edited by Guimaraens on Sun Dec 20, 2009 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Moses Botbol
Posts: 5923
Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:38 am
Location: Boston, USA

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Moses Botbol »

Which year of Taylor Fladgate's Vinha Velha Vintage Port do you recommend investing in? Do you think they'll see Nacional prices 20-30 years from now?
Welsh Corgis | F1 |British Cars
Marco D.
Posts: 939
Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2005 10:04 am
Location: Milford, Connecticut, United States of America - USA

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Marco D. »

David,

When I was on Roy's Harvest tour in 2007, the 2000 Taylor was the wine of the trip for me. As anyone who has been on Roy's trips can attest to, there are incredible wines sampled every day -- to pick a favorite is high praise indeed. The fact that a TVVV was also made that year is proof that making a separate old vine bottling is not compromising the original product. Having never tried the TVVV how would you compare it's character and longevity to the regular bottling... or is it too early to tell?

Given the number of ports and Quintas that you you deal with, can you give us an idea of the logistics of how you manage a vintage? Do you travel between Quintas every day? Do you have a base in one place and have samples sent to you, etc.

Also, having been born into the port trade, do you have any special childhood port-related memory?

Cheers!
Marco DeFreitas Connecticut, USA
User avatar
Derek T.
Posts: 4080
Joined: Wed Sep 14, 2005 5:02 pm
Location: Chesterfield, United Kingdom - UK
Contact:

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Derek T. »

Guimaraens wrote:I still consider the Taylor 1992 to be one of the greatest Vintage Ports of the last 40 years, at least.
David,

I have not yet had the oportunity to taste the Taylor 1992 but will certainly make an effort to do so soon following this glowing recommendation. Would you rank the Taylor 1992 above those produced by Taylor in 1994, 1997, 2000, 2003 and 2007?

Derek
Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Moses Botbol wrote:
Guimaraens wrote: Pre-1995 - the Fonseca 1963 is a bench-mark for me. 1948 Taylor is also something I intend to repeat.

David
'48 Taylor is epic. How you would know if any vintage will hold up against it? Do you go back to the 50's and compare tasting notes to a more recent vintage?
Moses,
I do not have tasting notes to refer back to the 1948's at the time of making, but the advantage of adding up years of experience in this buisness (I have been working back home now for 19 years) is that you build up a lot of fealing for what makes things work. I have a lot of my own thoughts as to what made the 1948's so extraordinary, and I can only hope that during my tenure of being responsible for these wonderfull Port houses, that we can repeat the achievement.
So much has happened over the last 30-40 years in the Douro, and in many respects the conditions of the 1948 vintage can never be replicated, however the greater understanding we have today together with many improvements that have been made makes me feel confident that Vintage Port today has achieved probably the highest level ever.
It takes many years to truly evaluate the ageing capacity of a given Vintage year. Some years mature quicker than we originally thought, others just stay youthfull for years. Time will tell.
Take the example of 1997's. These were overshadowed by the magnificent fruit of the 1994's, however in recent tastings I have done, I have been very impressed at how well they are showing, and I will be following their future development with great expectation.

David
Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Derek T. wrote:
Guimaraens wrote:I still consider the Taylor 1992 to be one of the greatest Vintage Ports of the last 40 years, at least.
David,

I have not yet had the oportunity to taste the Taylor 1992 but will certainly make an effort to do so soon following this glowing recommendation. Would you rank the Taylor 1992 above those produced by Taylor in 1994, 1997, 2000, 2003 and 2007?

Derek
Derek,

time is a virtue, and it is easy to now look back on the 1992, and pass judgement. Lets let time be the judge.

David
Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Moses Botbol wrote:Which year of Taylor Fladgate's Vinha Velha Vintage Port do you recommend investing in? Do you think they'll see Nacional prices 20-30 years from now?
2000 Vargellas Vinha Velha is one to bet on at the moment. Quantities are limited, and their Quality are trully something special, where they go to in price is hard to predict.

David
Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Marco D. wrote:David,

When I was on Roy's Harvest tour in 2007, the 2000 Taylor was the wine of the trip for me. As anyone who has been on Roy's trips can attest to, there are incredible wines sampled every day -- to pick a favorite is high praise indeed. The fact that a TVVV was also made that year is proof that making a separate old vine bottling is not compromising the original product. Having never tried the TVVV how would you compare it's character and longevity to the regular bottling... or is it too early to tell?

Given the number of ports and Quintas that you you deal with, can you give us an idea of the logistics of how you manage a vintage? Do you travel between Quintas every day? Do you have a base in one place and have samples sent to you, etc.

Also, having been born into the port trade, do you have any special childhood port-related memory?

Cheers!
Marco,
The Vargellas Vinha Velha is a small selection from 4 seperate parcels of Vinhas Velhas we have at Vargellas, and thus does not take away from the overall blend. Additionally, the Vargellas Ports are a component of the Taylor Vintages, and it is important to not forget how important a role the Quinta da Terra Feita and Quinta do Junco Ports have to play.
A Classic Vintage, made up from the best Ports from the different Quintas belonging to Taylors will always make a better overall Vintage Port than the best component from a Single Vineyard (Quinta).
Take the example of a Taylor Vintage. Quinta de Vargellas is the key component that contributes the distinctive Taylor perfumed, almost graphite nose with its very firm grippy and fine tannins. Quinta de Terra Feita in the Pinhão Valley gives succulant round fresh fruit to the palate, and Quinta do Junco gives Ports with tremendous depth of palate.


Regarding the harvest, we have 6 traditional wineries, where we make our Ports from our vineyards in the simple and effective empirical method of footreading. No lagar is filled from our Quintas without the decision of when and what to pick has been taken by myself and our Viticulturist, Antonio Magalhães, together. This decision is based on the weeks preceding the harvest us continuously evaluating all of the vineyards and individual grape varieties. I am strongly supported in the wineries themselves by members of my team, (Rui Lameiras & Ernestina castro), who ensure the disceplin and the golden rules passed down through generations, are maintained in the wineries. These wineries I accompany on a daily basis.


Regarding childhood memories I have many, however my 2 1/2 year old son Filipe is needing to be put to bed. I will continue tommorow.

David
John Trombley
Posts: 427
Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:46 pm
Location: Piqua, Ohio, United States of America - USA

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by John Trombley »

Dear David,

A tasting and cellaring question for a wine with which you may have some familiarity, and a challenge for your prognosticating powers.

Perhaps the Port in my cellar that is most difficult to judge is the 1985 Taylor, of which I bought a case on release. It has always been a very fine wine, but never has seemed to have the clarity of flavor, force, and focus of others of its stable that I've tasted, although it has seen some improvement, I feel, over about the last six or eight years. There always has seemed to me to be a bit of muddiness (not of flavor but of focus) on the midpalate. Is there a reason for what I'm sensing in this wine? Do you have an opinion concerning its future evolution? Should it be drunk up soon? Or do you see more positive development for it?

Thanks in advance and best wishes,
John Trombley
Piqua, OH USA
Guimaraens
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Porto, Portugal

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Guimaraens »

Perhaps the Port in my cellar that is most difficult to judge is the 1985 Taylor, of which I bought a case on release. It has always been a very fine wine, but never has seemed to have the clarity of flavor, force, and focus of others of its stable that I've tasted, although it has seen some improvement, I feel, over about the last six or eight years. There always has seemed to me to be a bit of muddiness (not of flavor but of focus) on the midpalate. Is there a reason for what I'm sensing in this wine? Do you have an opinion concerning its future evolution? Should it be drunk up soon? Or do you see more positive development for it?


John,
the 1985 was a very big year, and the Ports held their youthfullness for a long time. As such they started developing their bottle maturity characters at a later stage. This explains why you have seen them improve over the last 6-8 years.

Vintage Port has three distinct phases:

1. 2-10 years of age, where their rich vibrant fruit and structure makes them so attractive.
2. 8-14 years of age, in between being fruity and developing bottle maturity they go through a dumb phase where they neither have fresh fruit nor have bottle maturity. Excatly when they enter this stage and how long it lasts varies tremendously from one Vintage to another, and depending if it is a Classic or Single Quinta. Generally the Single Quintas enter this stage earlier.
3. 12-80+ years of age, where the bottle maturity transforms vintage Port into these incredibly fine and complex Ports.

A significant development has occured to how Vintage Ports behave in their second stage. The trade up until the early 1990's was forced to purchase its fortifying spirit from the controlling body. We are now free to source our own, which has led to much finer spirits being used. As a result, Vintage Ports from the late 1990's forward have a much smaller stage 2 than previously.
The effect of the spirit is also one of the reasons why young Vintage Port is so much more attractive young than it used to be 30 years ago. The finer spirits allow the fruit to express itself so much more when the Vintage Ports are young.

I believe your 1985's were clearly in the 2nd stage when you first opened them, and they are now in their 3rd stage. I would have no problems with holding on to your 1985's for longer.

David
User avatar
Andy Velebil
Posts: 16613
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 4:49 pm
Location: Los Angeles, California, United States of America - USA
Contact:

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Andy Velebil »

David,

I have a two part question;

1- Since you mentioned the Trade is now able to source better quality brandy can you explain how it is made, where it comes from, and without giving away any trade secrets, the process you use to select which brandies you use in which products? For example, I was told Croft Pink uses a very expensive brandy that is also used for Vintage Ports.

2- Obviously using a very expensive brandy isn't cost effective for basic inexpensive Ports. What is the process you use during harvest to determine what brandy is used to fortify different batches of grapes? For example, are there certain Quinta's, or parcels of grapes, that you know generally don't make the grade for use in the upper end Ports so these are fortified using a less costly brandy. Or is it different every year based on the growing conditions, etc?

Many Thanks
Andy Velebil Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used. William Shakespeare http://www.fortheloveofport.com
Marco D.
Posts: 939
Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2005 10:04 am
Location: Milford, Connecticut, United States of America - USA

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Marco D. »

David,

I have a son that was born in 2005, a vintage that was not generally declared. What are your picks for the most age-worthy port of that vintage (whether within the TFP or outside)?
Marco DeFreitas Connecticut, USA
oscarquevedo
Posts: 222
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 4:03 am
Location: S. Joao Pesqueira, Portugal
Contact:

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by oscarquevedo »

David,

It has been a big pleasure to read your thoughts about Port Wine here in :ftlop: . I have been enjoying and learning a lot from your comments and I will take this opportunity to ask for your opinion about Port aging. Traditionally Port uses to age in the lodges located in Gaia. As until 1986 all Port should be shipped from Gaia, there was no other option besides this location for aging Port. But since 1986, when Port could start to be exported directly from the Douro, some Port houses have been moving their aging lodges from Gaia to the Douro valley. As we all know one of the first was Quinta do Noval.

Humidity and temperatures have always been the major justification to keep Port aging in Gaia, where the temperatures are not so extreme during the Summer and Winter and humidity is much higher in Gaia than in the Douro, contributing to a slower oxidizing process with lower rates of evaporation.

That said, I would like to ask you if you think more producers will move away from Gaia and set up their aging lodges for Port Wine in the Douro, specially in the higher parts of the valley, where the temperatures are lower. Or do you think Gaia is a better place for Port to age.

Oscar
Michael Hann
Posts: 181
Joined: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:42 am
Location: McKinney, TX, US

Re: David Guimaraens - December's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Michael Hann »

David:

First, let me remark that it is very gracious of you to take time to respond to our questions. I'm sure your schedule is very busy.

My question is a follow-up on Andy's question above. What are the quality distinctions between better and worse brandy/aguardente for use in fortifying port? I assume the alcoholic strength is the same. Is there a difference in clarity between a higher grade and a lower grade of aguardente? Is there a difference in how different aguardentes integrate into the finished port? Is it better for the aguardente to have a neutral effect on the aroma/bouquet of the port or is it hoped that the aguardente provide some beneficial contribution to the aroma/bouquet of the port?
Locked