DIRK NIEPOORT - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

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Andy Velebil
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Andy Velebil »

Hi Dirk,

Many thanks for your replies so far. My next question revolves around Douro dry wines and their relationship to Ports.

Obviously you are a pioneer in Douro dry wines, making some seriously good wines, and you have been even from a very early part of your wine making career*. Yet some think that with so many producers having such a strong reliance on Douro wines will only hurt the production of Port in the long run. I've heard some say that such a strong influence on one will impact the other negatively and that both cannot co-exist together for any length of time. What are your thoughts concerning this sometimes controversial issue.

*(That 1990 Robustus Luis shared with us double blind last October was one of the best Douro wines I've ever had. I can't thank you enough for allowing us to try something so rare and so extraordinary. The empty bottle is proudly on display in my house.)
Andy Velebil Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used. William Shakespeare http://www.fortheloveofport.com
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Eric Menchen »

Hello and thank-you Dirk for all the questions you've answered thus far. Muito obrigado. I have two unrelated questions I hope you can answer.

First, a question about the industry in general and Niepoort in particular with respect to Vintage Port. I've observed that the "classic British names" (for lack of a better term), continue to observe the three declarations per decade rule; a second group of "heritage producers," including Niepoort, sometimes declares a few more times a decade; and finally, a lot of what I will call "young upstarts" (many new producers that emerged after the change in regulations in 1985) will declare nearly every year, omitting only those years with dreadful growing or harvest conditions. Do you foresee Niepoort or the industry in general moving to declare more often? On the one hand I can see market forces and modern production methods (e.g. temperature control fermentation vessels) pushing in this direction. On the other hand, tradition is huge in the Douro.

Second, an easy question: In this thread I suggested that when you bottled, you intentionally oriented the bottle capsules so they could be read when the bottles were racked label up. Can you confirm or deny this?

Thank-you again, for your answers and your wines.

-Eric
dirk niepoort
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by dirk niepoort »

Hi Dirk,

Many thanks for your replies so far. My next question revolves around Douro dry wines and their relationship to Ports.

Obviously you are a pioneer in Douro dry wines, making some seriously good wines, and you have been even from a very early part of your wine making career*. Yet some think that with so many producers having such a strong reliance on Douro wines will only hurt the production of Port in the long run. I've heard some say that such a strong influence on one will impact the other negatively and that both cannot co-exist together for any length of time. What are your thoughts concerning this sometimes controversial issue.

hi andy,

that is an important question. I supose that i know who says so negative things about making wine in the douro.
I DON T AGREE AT ALL WITH THAT COMMENT. I BELIEVE EXACTLY THE OPOSITE.
THERE ARE GREAT SINERGIES TO BE USED POSITIVELY FOR BOTH SIDES. THE PORT WILL WIN A LOT BECAUSE OF THE WINES AND THE WINES BENEFIT A LOT FROM THE PORT.
OBVIOUSLY THERE ARE A FEW SITUATIONS WHERE SOME GREAT PORT GRAPES ARE USED FOR MAKING WINE ...BUT IN GENERAL:
THE DOURO IS A HUGE VINEGROWING AREA (45 000 HECTARES)
IT IS TOTALLY UNUSUAL BECAUSE IT IS QUITE "COMPLICATED" BY HAVING SOUTH, EAST , WEST AND NORTH FACING VINEYARDS. THEY GO FROM 80 T0 800 METERS AND WE HAVE MORE THAN 85 VARIETIES.
IN MY OPINION THE BEST VINEYARDS FOR PORT ARE NOT AT ALL THE BEST FOR RED OR WHITE WINES.
THE BEST VINEYARDS FOR RED ARE NOT NECESSARLY THE BEST FOR PORT.
THE BIG IMPORTANT MATTER IS TO HAVE TWO PRIORITIES PORT AND WINE. IF NECESSARY BE ABBLE TO DO BOTH AT THE SAME TIME WITH THE SAME CARE.
THAT IS THE SECRET FOR MAKING BOTH TOP NOTCH.

THE SECRET OF PORT IS THE DOURO AREA. WE HAVE TO COMUNICATE MORE AND MORE WHAT PORT IS ALL ABOUT - SO WE HAVE TO COMUNICATE THE DOURO. AND THE WINES ARE A FANTASTIC WAY TO COMUNICATE THE DOURO.
D O U R O IS REALLY A UNIQUE WINE AREA WITH A FANTASTIC POTENTIAL.

dirk
dirk niepoort
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by dirk niepoort »

Hello and thank-you Dirk for all the questions you've answered thus far. Muito obrigado. I have two unrelated questions I hope you can answer.

First, a question about the industry in general and Niepoort in particular with respect to Vintage Port. I've observed that the "classic British names" (for lack of a better term), continue to observe the three declarations per decade rule; a second group of "heritage producers," including Niepoort, sometimes declares a few more times a decade; and finally, a lot of what I will call "young upstarts" (many new producers that emerged after the change in regulations in 1985) will declare nearly every year, omitting only those years with dreadful growing or harvest conditions. Do you foresee Niepoort or the industry in general moving to declare more often? On the one hand I can see market forces and modern production methods (e.g. temperature control fermentation vessels) pushing in this direction. On the other hand, tradition is huge in the Douro. WE AT NIEPOORT DON T REALLY FOLLOW ANY PARTICULAR RULE EXCEPT TO BOTTLE THE WINES WE FIND TO BE WORTH IT. SO WE DON T HAVE ANY PROBLEM DECLARING TWO VINTAGES LIKE 82 AND 83.
BUT WE DO THINK THAT IT IS IMPORTANT TO ONLY BOTTLE IN THE FANTASTIC YEARS.
WITH THE PISCA WE MIGHT DECLARE MORE OFTEN IF WE THINK THE QUALITY IS OUTSTANDING.
2008 IS OUT OF THIS WORLD BUT NOT A CLASSIC YEAR. IF THE PISCA EVOLVS AS EXPECTED WE WILL BOTTLE. i M TOTALLY IN LOVE WITH THE PISCA 08

nobody declared 2005 and yet I think it is the best wine/port I personatly ever made and we declared vintage 2005

Second, an easy question: In this thread I suggested that when you bottled, you intentionally oriented the bottle capsules so they could be read when the bottles were racked label up. Can you confirm or deny this? THAT´S THE IDEA

regards
dirk

Thank-you again, for your answers and your wines.
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Moses Botbol »

Dirk:

Thanks for taking the time to answer our questions.

Is the family name Niepoort of Jewish decent?
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Ronald Wortel
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Ronald Wortel »

Hi Dirk,

It's great to see you here to reply to all these questions. Thanks for that!

My favourite Niepoort wine is Charme. What do you consider to be the most succesful vintage of this wine and why? (Please don't say 2002, it's the only one I haven't been able to buy so far! :wink: )

All the best,
Ronald
But enough about me, what do YOU think of me? -- Johnny Bravo
dirk niepoort
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by dirk niepoort »

Thanks for taking the time to answer our questions.

Is the family name Niepoort of Jewish decent?

I think so somewhere in the past.....but don t really know....

dirk
dirk niepoort
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by dirk niepoort »

It's great to see you here to reply to all these questions. Thanks for that!

My favourite Niepoort wine is Charme. What do you consider to be the most succesful vintage of this wine and why? (Please don't say 2002, it's the only one I haven't been able to buy so far! )

All the best,
RonaldBut enough about me, what do YOU think of me? -- Johnny BravoRonald Wortel

I THINK IT IS THE 2008 FOLLOWED BY 07 AND THAN 05.

I LIKE THE 04 VERY MUCH AS WELL BUT IT IS SOMEHOW BIGGER AND LESS "CHARMING".

I M GLAD YOU LIKE THE CHARME. IT IS A VERY SPECIAL WINE THAT GIVES A LOT OF WORK AND ALL DETAILS HAVE TO BE PERFECT FOR US TO BOTTLE IT AS CHARME.

regards
dirk
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Derek T.
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Derek T. »

Dirk,

What are your views on wine tourism? There are many different forms of this and some Douro quintas are turning into small hotels (such as Passadouro and de la Rosa) whilst others remain open and free to visit. There is also the phenomenon of luxury hotels such as Romaneira and Aqua Pura and the middle ground of the Vintage House. What do you think is the best direction for the proprietors of the Douro to go and do you see a difference between tourists and port enthusiasts?

Derek
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Paul_B »

Hi Dirk,

thanks for taking the time and thank you for the great wines and Port. I really admire how you can 1) standout among the huge Port groups 2) keep all those experiments going and still have strength and time for your main wines.

Recently here in Montreal there was a festival held every year called " Highlights Festival" www.montrealenlumiere.com
the theme this year was Portugal's fine food. More than a dozen of Portugal's top chefs came here and were paired with our best French, Italian, Portuguese and other chefs and where given the chance to produce their best signatures dishes. Anyway long intro to my question. At one of the main evening diner events a bottle of Niepoort was served. I was not present but it was described as a Niepoort 1867. That is 100 years before my birth year so I'm very curious would you know if this 1867 would have been a VP or a Colheita or maybe even a Garrafeira? I'm assuming there can't be too many possibilities at what this could be.

Since you like projects and innovation. Let me share one of my ideas and you can comment. There are some colheita that perhaps the low available quantities in oak make it a tough bottling decision economically. What about a blend of two or three colheitas with those two or three years clearly labeled on the bottle? I know this would require approval but just as a concept.

Thanks
Paul
dirk niepoort
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by dirk niepoort »

Derek T. wrote:Dirk,

What are your views on wine tourism? There are many different forms of this and some Douro quintas are turning into small hotels (such as Passadouro and de la Rosa) whilst others remain open and free to visit. There is also the phenomenon of luxury hotels such as Romaneira and Aqua Pura and the middle ground of the Vintage House. What do you think is the best direction for the proprietors of the Douro to go and do you see a difference between tourists and port enthusiasts?

Derek

I think that turismo is / will be important for the douro. as you mentioned there are different ways of aproaching the turismo. all are good if manered in a quality way. a star restaurant in the douro is important but even more important is having a lot of small typical regional restaurants offering great simple food (thats what portugal is all about) using local fantastic ingriedients and offering some good wines.
what really matters is the quality and not building big discusting buildings and destroying nature..
there is a big difference between tourists and enthusiasts. both are importante particularly because a tourist can become a wine / port enthusiast.
thats why it is important for the region to creat some infrastructure to be able to help the tourist and specially the enthusisaste to get to see things.
until recently as a enthusiast spending a week in the douro it was almost impossible to visit anybody, get to taste the real thing etc.

to tell you the truth this question is really my biggest problem. since planing the winery my only problem has been; what do I do about visitors?????
on one side we want to help hotels / restaurants the visitors to be able to visit estates and how the wines/ports are made. on the other hand it is very difficult if one doesn t have the structure.
luis and gabriela receive an enourmous amount of visitors a week. they are happy to do it but there is a limit to it .....they have a job to do.
by building a little hotel or having a nice restaurant seems to be the solution .
we are working on the idea.

don t forget that apart from making PORT and wine the DOURO is really probably the most spectacular wine area in the world. it is amazingly beautifull.

by the way: tomorrow will be the pre release of the long awaited movie (documentary) about the douro. from antonio barreto and joana pontes.
I was told that it is a spectacular movie.

I have a little dream of making a restaurant in the douro with a fantastic wine list (not only douro wines)....infact I m already collecting some wines thinking about the possibility of one day making that simple but good restaurant.

what I don t want for the douro is too much of disney world.

dirk
dirk niepoort
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by dirk niepoort »

Paul_B wrote:Hi Dirk,

thanks for taking the time and thank you for the great wines and Port. I really admire how you can 1) standout among the huge Port groups 2) keep all those experiments going and still have strength and time for your main wines.

thats not me doing it all.
it is only possible having a perfect team. a perfect team makes work fun and sometimes makes you go beyond ones limits.
in terms of port one of our secrets is the blenders family. i m the 5 generation but the son (jose rodrigo) is also the 5th working at niepoort (started working at niepoort 4 years ago). the impirical knowledge is very important. without zeze (the 4th generation) the ports of niepoot would never be like they are.
since nick started working with us in 2002 a lot of things have gotten better. since 2000 vintage our vintage ports have more precison and quality.
for wines luis is the man. vry bright, quick and incredible energy. he doesn´t working and more important he doesn´t be hungry for more knowledge. he likes to play around and get deeper and deeper. he is responsable for us making a fantastic 10 year old white port. he has been making the white ports inthe douro with more precision. he is responsable for the aging of the pisca 2008 that is sleeping in napoles at the momen.
gabi has all the patience in the world and keeps the strings toghether. without her napoles would be a mess.
luis would not be able to do the good job he does without sr manuel (the caseiro of napoles who does most of the work in the vineyards) and particularly without antonio. he does a brilliant job looking after the wines etc etc. with help of analista maria gil

making great wines is important but without logistic and comercial orientation....nothing works.
ze rodrigo in the cellar with his father make miracles....miracles expected from the office: elisabete is the queen. . not easy to handle but a bull in strengh and working strengh. alexandra keeps the nrs in the right places, blandina is there in place, susana is new at niepoort but already working with me for some years and helping with control of cork quality and whereever it is necessary. we have a new salesman for portugal: the best, carvalho ferreira.


and on top off the bunch is my speedy sister verena trying desperatly to answer all the questions to everybody and jose teles who is driving the niepoort ship.

and there is joao rico
now looking after our new baby; importing wines from all over the world

I m proud of this fantastic ship that my father kept in good shape to pass it over to me and verena
dirk

Recently here in Montreal there was a festival held every year called " Highlights Festival" http://www.montrealenlumiere.com
the theme this year was Portugal's fine food. More than a dozen of Portugal's top chefs came here and were paired with our best French, Italian, Portuguese and other chefs and where given the chance to produce their best signatures dishes. Anyway long intro to my question. At one of the main evening diner events a bottle of Niepoort was served. I was not present but it was described as a Niepoort 1867. That is 100 years before my birth year so I'm very curious would you know if this 1867 would have been a VP or a Colheita or maybe even a Garrafeira? I'm assuming there can't be too many possibilities at what this could be.

that was a colheita but 1863 not 1867. unfortunatly it is very rare and we don t have many bottles left. that wine in particular was kept in pipes until 1972 into a demi jons and I decanted like a week before going to canada. it is unbelievable...

Since you like projects and innovation. Let me share one of my ideas and you can comment. There are some colheita that perhaps the low available quantities in oak make it a tough bottling decision economically. What about a blend of two or three colheitas with those two or three years clearly labeled on the bottle? I know this would require approval but just as a concept.

the idea is good but impossible to do because of the IVDP. it would be like a 20 year old made from colheita 1985, 1991 and 1978......but we could not mention that on the label.....

regards
dirk


Thanks
Paul
Daniel R.
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Daniel R. »

dirk niepoort wrote: OH DEAR,

HOW RIGHT YOU ARE.
IT SHOULD BE IMPORTANT AND INFACT EVEN THOUGH i FULLY AGREE WITH YOU I FEEL THAT THE PORTUGUESE ARE A LITTLE BIT MORE INTERESTED IN PORT THAN THEY WERE.
AS YOU SAY FOR THE PORTUGUESE PORT WAS SOMETHNG FOR THE FOREIGNER (TO BE EXPORTET).
INFACT , it is curious to note that all portuguese feel proud of the port but always assume that it is for the others to drink.
but it is not easy and as you say the ports are cheaper usually in the uk than in portugal. infact I m just about to buy a little parcel of ports fromthe 60'´s to put in our site projectos.
I´m glad that your father and you like port so much.
please let me know if you want to come and visit us in the douro.

abraco
dirk
great news, I will look out for the offer in Projectos (I have made purchases there before). Thank you for your kind suggestion to come and visit you, I will seriuosly consider it!
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John M.
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by John M. »

Dear Dirk;

Thank you very much for participating here. Only wish it was easier to find your port here in the USA.

My questions is about garrafeiras. What does aging in the demi-johns do to the wine that is unique??--what is the advantage? (why not just bottle it, for instance?).

Thank you! :thanks:
Any Port in a storm!
dirk niepoort
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by dirk niepoort »

looking forward seing you here.

regards
dirk


Daniel R. wrote:
dirk niepoort wrote: OH DEAR,

HOW RIGHT YOU ARE.
IT SHOULD BE IMPORTANT AND INFACT EVEN THOUGH i FULLY AGREE WITH YOU I FEEL THAT THE PORTUGUESE ARE A LITTLE BIT MORE INTERESTED IN PORT THAN THEY WERE.
AS YOU SAY FOR THE PORTUGUESE PORT WAS SOMETHNG FOR THE FOREIGNER (TO BE EXPORTET).
INFACT , it is curious to note that all portuguese feel proud of the port but always assume that it is for the others to drink.
but it is not easy and as you say the ports are cheaper usually in the uk than in portugal. infact I m just about to buy a little parcel of ports fromthe 60'´s to put in our site projectos.
I´m glad that your father and you like port so much.
please let me know if you want to come and visit us in the douro.

abraco
dirk
great news, I will look out for the offer in Projectos (I have made purchases there before). Thank you for your kind suggestion to come and visit you, I will seriuosly consider it!
dirk niepoort
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by dirk niepoort »

John M. wrote:Dear Dirk;

Thank you very much for participating here. Only wish it was easier to find your port here in the USA.

My questions is about garrafeiras. What does aging in the demi-johns do to the wine that is unique??--what is the advantage? (why not just bottle it, for instance?).

Thank you! :thanks:

dear john,

aging the wine in these garrafeiras (big bottles between 7 and 11 liters) (made in the 18th century) makes a big difference
it seems to make the wines finer. it is a sort of a reductive way of aging the port. the aromatics are different, finer, more expressiv and body is different. the ports are less big but have ususally a very long finish.
the most burgundian of the ports

dirk
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Michael Hann »

Many thanks to Dirk for taking the time to address the many questions and share with us his experience, knowledge, and views. And thanks to Roy for setting this up. I have been lurking, reading the posted questions and answers with great interest, as I imagine have many others. It really is an exceptional experience, I think, to have this kind of direct communication with a super star of the Port world. This is like being able to listen in on the conversation of Marcel Proust discussing his writing or Fra Angelico discussing his painting.

I found Dirk's comment very illuminating that there need not be an antagonistic relationship between producing fine Port and producing fine dry wines in the Douro, because these wines tend to be produced from different vineyards or at different elevations. It seems to me that the general increase of revenues to the Douro area from producing fine dry wines must be good and may contribute to the collective improvement of both Port and dry wine vineyards (this is probably not the right term of reference to the wine of the Douro that is not fortified as Port, but I hope you know what I mean). Also, it may be that increased public attention focused on high quality Douro wines raises the public profile of high quality Port, and increased public attention focused on high quality Port raises the public profile of high quality Douro wines.
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Post by Roy Hersh »

Please note that Dirk will be here over this weekend but his time with us ends after the weekend. So if you have more comments or questions, there's only about 48 hours left.
Ambition driven by passion, rather than money, is as strong an elixir as is Port. http://www.fortheloveofport.com
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Derek T. »

Dirk,

In about 6 hours from now I will be driving into the mountains of Scotland for three days of hiking - I am told the wind-chill tomorrow is only -10C so it should be great fun! This thread will be closed by the time I return to civilisation so I want to take this opportunity to thank you for participating here and for the open and honest way in which you have answered the many questions raised in this thread. I will leave you with one final question from me:

I have had the pleasure of visiting your facilities at Napoles, Vale de Mendiz and both of your lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia and having done so have witnessed the extremes in variation between the modern and the ancient environments in which port is produced. In your response to my question about Pisca you mentioned that you have been ageing that wine in your winery in the Douro under controlled conditions, presumably at Napoles? There are many other wineries now in the Douro with similar, but perhaps not so grand, facilities as those of Napoles and there seems to be a trend towards controlling, ageing and bottling of wines and ports in these facilities in the Douro rather than in VNG. I am often amazed that the non-sterile environments of the past managed to produce such great vintages as those of the first quarter of the 20th century and do wonder whether or not the current movement towards sterile methods and environments for making port will increase overall quality but reduce or eliminate the possibility of producing truely stellar natural vintages in the future.

Do you think that there will come a time when VNG is little more than a museum with more and more of the production process happening in the Douro? If so, are there aspects of the character that the relatively uncontrolled environment of the cellars in VNG add to the development of the wines that would be lost in having most or all of the premium products develop in entirely controlled environments such as those found in the modern winery?

Derek
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Re: Dirk Niepoort - May's Forum Guest Corner Host

Post by Paul_B »

I have to agree with Derek, it seems there is an exodus from VNG, maybe the rent is too expensive :lol:
I'm a bit concerned that we turn that into just a bus stop for tourists to taste 3 ports (a white, an LBV and 10 year old).
But at some point we have to follow progress, such as controlled temp environments being built in the Douro.
Maybe it is a way to reduce operating costs by having everything done in the douro.

Thanks again for taking the time and do pass by when you have a chance...maybe to give the members here advance notice on the release of the garrafeira 77 and maybe a special FTLOP offer (hint to Roy).

I hope I can taste or better own a garrafeira one day.

cheers
Paul
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