Sonoma Winemaker Group does Madeira

Tony Velebil · Post by **Tony Velebil** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 9:30 am

I belong to a monthly tasting group with several high profile Pinot makers in Sonoma County. The group also has a barrel rep and a few who are ITB but not winemakers. Usually, the group meets (12-14 people) and shares 6 bottles double blind--one group member brings the 6 bottles, bags them and pours. The group then tries to figure out what varietal, region, year, etc...This tasting was a little different as Todd, a high end barrel rep, suggested a Madeira tasting. He would bring some bottles from his cellar. He has read extensively on Madeira and put together quite an information packed and was quite generous with the wines.

This is my first extensive Madeira tasting and it was very educational and a lot of fun. There were two NV Madeira's (every day drinkers if you will) thrown in to compare/contrast with vintage versions. Here go my very amateurish notes on the wine...

Wine A: Abudarham Sercial NV (25 year old) -

This was light brown in color with nice viscosity. The taste was salty and nutty with raw Toll House cookie dough, with bright tangy acidity, as it stayed in the glass it started to take on a Doritos Nacho Cheese nose. Lacked the palate weight and finish of some of the other wines. 87pts. (My #4 WOTN)

Wine B: 1910 Barbieto Sercial Reserva Velha

Some green on the edges but with a nice amber color. Some green notes streaking through the salty, caramel notes. Again tangy acidity, but better palate weight than A and a longer finish. I asked where the green notes come from and you guessed it a little VA. Still nice. 91pts (#2 WOTN)

Wine C: 1929 Barbieto Verdelho

This seemed the darkest wine on the palate. Again, salty, nutty, with brown sugar and caramel with better palate weight and nicer finish than either A or B. I really liked this and it was my WOTN. 93pts.

Wine D: Boston Bual

This and wine A were inserted to compare/contrast some vintage Madeiras to thier NV counterparts. I thought this was a fun Madeira. Brown sugar, toffee with some spice but the finish was pretty short and it seemed a little hollow in the mid palate. 87pts (#5 WOTN)

Wine E: 1920 Favilla Vieira Boal

Again, nice amber color, good viscosity, with a more prominent green tomato vine character streaking through the nuts and earthy notes on the palate. Medium length finish but to me the tomato vine thing was a little off putting leaving this at 90pts (#3 WOTN)

Wine F: 1948 Barbieto Malvasia Malmsey

This was a shame as it was slightly corked. You could sense the beauty of this wine through the cork though. It was the darkest of the wines on the palate with great weight and balance. A pristine bottle of this could have easily been WOTN for me...NR

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 2:03 pm

It is great to have Tony with us. For those that don't know this celebrity, Tony is the Assistant Winemaker at one of California's greatest Pinot Noir producers, Kosta Browne.

Tony thanks so much for posting your fine tasting notes. I must admit that I am drooling just reading this. Fabulous tasting!

I have only had 3 of these in the past. You are so fortunate to attend such a high level Madeira tasting. Some beauties in that lineup. I hope you will continue to enjoy your time here on the site. I look forward to sharing some Pinot and Port someday in the not too distant future!

Tony Velebil · Post by **Tony Velebil** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:00 pm

Roy

Thanks for the introduction. I definitely look forward to drinking some vino with you in Seattle soon.

As for the wines, this was really a fun event and extremely educational.

I look forward to drinking a little more Madeira in the future.

Tony