TN: Chapoutier 1996 Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers

[Ray Barnes]

This older vintage comes from a vineyard called Chavanessieux (my thanks to the renowned Rhone wine expert John Livingstone-Learmonth for confirming this). It is just west of and up the same hill as Hermitage lieu-dit La Varonne (itself west of Les Bessards), on a rocky outcropping overlooking the river bank. It lies within the Crozes-Hermitage appelation, yet is part of the same granitic seam from Les Bessards west to the Vignes de l'Hospice at the top of the hill overlooking Tournon in St. Joseph. The topsoil is a bit sandier and less granitic than Les Bessards. I believe in more recent vintages, some bottlings also include wine from the southern part of Crozes. In the Chapoutier portfolio, it is included in the more prestigious single vineyard selections, and now labeled as Crozes-Ermitage. This bottle was acquired for I believe only $22 plus a buyer's premium, perhaps on the assumption the wine was long past its best. I believe the name Varonniers is a proprietary mixing of Varonne and its other Crozes wine, Les Meysonniers.

Being well into its 20th year, this wine needed a good 30 minutes of aeration, and gradually developed into a fine example of a red Hermitage. Very characteristic raspberry and blackberry flavours and aromas, with good palette weight and richness, some spice, and excellent length. The tannins were very elegant and refined, again so typical of Hermitage. Deeply saturated red color, not on the scale of Cornas, but not too far behind it. By comparison to the Chapoutier 2002 Ermitage L'Ermite, a wine of considerable prestige in great years, I believe the honors between these two wines were very evenly divided. Needless to say the Crozes offered much better value for money. This 1996 could go for another 4 or 5+ years with proper storage. I would not hesitate to buy this again at this price. It would be nice to find and try out a bottle of La Varonne. Overall opinion: excellent plus, a real find. Wish I had more.

[Andy Velebil]

Thanks for the notes on this and the BDX as well. Always good when you find gems, especially at good prices.

[Ray Barnes]

Thank you Andy. They were both pretty outstanding wines, although offering different tasting experiences. I think it would be fair to describe this wine as a Hermitage in everything but name only. Finding a wine pushing 20 years of age for that kind of money, from anywhere in the world, is pretty lucky IMHO.

Cheers,
Ray