2000 Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Imperium Aszú Eszencia,, Hungary

[John Trombley]

2000 Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Imperium Aszú Eszencia, $86/375 10% abv, Kirkcrest Imports, Danville, CA. Back label that was over-labeled with the US warning label states that this wine was oringinally exported from Hungary to France (Edonia, 3330 St. Emilion) to the US. Wine was poorly packed in 750 ml Styrofoam inserts without anything to prevent sliding and banging during shipment. The Styrofoam was cracked and broken and one bottle was jammed nearly sideways into the insert. The retailer seemed to be little concerned about the possibility of damage to this rare wine, without offering to check on shipping packaging policies; did offer a refund but would not offer a swap from their bottles in stock or even to check on condition of any remaining bottles in stock. 'Could not guarantee that you'd be any happier with the other bottles.' Nor could I, it seems, and so I have written this retailer off my source for rare and difficult-to-source wines because of their attitudes toward the truthfulness of their consumers when given reason for a complaint. Given the uniqueness of this wine in the United States, I decided not to return it, but to open one to see how it stands at this time.

Tasted from an Impitoyable out of a Coravin at room temperature. Full sheeting without tears indicating exceptionally high extract at 10 percent alcohol; full reddish-brown with gold overtones. When swirled develops bubbles around circumference of glass, suggesting slight skin proteins a result of prolonged maceration. Punchy dried apricots, pure clover honey, orange flower; complex dried hard spices, spearmint and star anise; very fresh nose with a hint of volatile acidity and slight sour ferment at this early stage; hints of sprouted barley.

Medium-to thick-textured, juicy, tingly phenolic mid-palate; very pure juicy honied finish of great length. Not a bit cloying. Style is somewhere between modern and Communist era but closer to modern. 95/100.

Will need tasting over several days for accurate read on quality and cellarability, but would call drinkable now at 17 years and assume no accurate prediction of longevity possible--perhaps 2050. Next time taste cooler.

Next day after 3 hours in glass showed kraft paper and tobacco and light oak and sherry notes, in addition to above, on nose. A minim of attractive pepperiness replaces the phenolic energy but with no actual heat. Score and ageworthiness as above.

[Eric Menchen]

An essencia for that price is rare, but I saw some listed for about that price late last year. Would, perchance, this retailer be in LA?

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[John Trombley]

An essencia for that price is rare, but I saw some listed for about that price late last year. Would, perchance, this retailer be in LA?

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Yes, Eric. This was originally a low price but was marked down about $30 further. Does need more time in cellar, I'd say, though. And I'm sure you see that this is an Aszu Eszencia!