TN: 2015 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese

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John Trombley
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Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:46 pm
Location: Piqua, Ohio, United States of America - USA

TN: 2015 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese

Post by John Trombley »

6/2/2017 rated 95 points: 2015 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle (VDP Grosse Lage) Riesling Auslese. Theise/Skurnik, Crush, NYC/Manhattan. Weinhaus Donnhoff, Oberhausen, shipper. Tasted via Coravin/Impitoyable after about 3 1/2 months in the cellar. AP 20, 8.5 pabv. From the most revered producer in the Nahe Valley, and for those who like the style, in all of Rieslingdom. The Nahe River has endless gems, but the Hermannshöhles from Dönnhoff are at the very top of this brilliantly kaleidoscopic region, like essence of yellow and red fruit drunk out of a diamond glass. We find this one in a bit of an awkward place, but well-positioned for the future:

Clingy; pale green. Searching aroma of hard spices entice you in; fresh, pungency typical of vineyard, touched with some fermentation aromas still, with cotton-candy dust and juicy white peach, and spearmint top-note; great depth to nose; when the wine is at cellar temperature, acids are quite angular and fruit subdued. Almost dry-seeming at this stage (this is not nor will it ever be a lush '76 knockoff!), with grip from tannin extract and malic acidity and lime peel, with rose petal, white peach, Nahe wild cherry flower, and sweet-tart finish. There are still some ferment acids to dissipate. Chilled back to refrigerator temperature, seems much better and more pleasantly integrated today.

Almost seems like it would be better with some malolactic ferment, as many 15's suggest. In any case it's good to experiment with temperature. This started out at cellar temp, warmed to room temp. Should be tried a bit colder (and warmer), but for choice quite cold, as heretical as that seems. An archetypal 2015 Auslese; seems like this one will age forever. Needs to drop some acidity and rough edges and soften before it becomes fully pleasurable for me, in my state of health, to drink, and these '15s are, despite my going long of them, not ever going to be the kind of Rieslings that first appealed to me. They are both sweet and dry at the same time, and have to fight out which will have the upper hand, so they are difficult to judge at this point. They may simply have been born adolescents, in some way.

94-96/100 on potential, not on current drinking pleasure, unless you follow the advice above. Drink 2022-2040. It will be near maturity a wonderful food wine for all the usual Riesling suspects, with its clarity and restraint. Not actually made, I think, strictly said, as a dessert wine at all, but as that rare Auslese that shows brilliance at table. The potential is there for those with some patience.
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