TN: Marc Sorrel 2005 Hermitage Les Rocoules blanc

[Ray Barnes]

After 3+ months of tax return preparation (not over yet), and a few bottles of good but unexceptional Cotes du Rhone, and finishing off the last dregs of the Broadbent 1996 Madeira opened at Christmas (which remained very drinkable for over 3 months), it was a treat to finally have a really good wine. This comes from a 50 year old plot of vines literally adjacent to another plot which constitutes much of the renowned Chave Hermitage blanc. I believe the cuvee is roughly 90% Marsanne and 10% Roussanne. This is the flagship white for this estate. Lovely pale yellow color. This is a wonderful wine except for one area, in that the bouqet creates the impression of being over the hill - not unlike excess oxidation. Once you get past this offputting effect, everything fires on all cylinders. It has great length, pineapple, honey, spice and pleasantly bitter nut flavours. The 15% alcohol is hardly discernible. It's delicious stuff. I'm not sure if the aroma issues are due to improper storage or faults in the wine.

It's as good or better than any white Hermitage I have thus far sampled - certainly a notch or two above Chapoutier Chante Alouette and Ferraton Les Miaux blanc. At $55 US a bottle it is solid value for money. It is an impeccable match with Greenland turbot (in truth, halibut) with a spicy white cream sauce. I would consider this bottle not of the same class as the Ch. de Beaucastel Vieilles Vignes Roussanne, which is magnificent in every respect - and costs at least double. I have another bottle which may be in better condition. Would buy again.