TN: Dominique Laurent 1997 Grand Cru Echezeaux

[Ray Barnes]

Well, all winning streaks have to come to an end. Thankfully, this wine was not very expensive, about $75, but you still hope it is going to be at least an excellent drinking experience. Perhaps if it had been purchased and consumed about 4 or 5 years ago, that would have been so. Having enjoyed a vigorous 1996 Mazis-Chambertin by this producer in late 2014, a wine which after 18 years could have easily lasted another 5 or more, I had expected this 19 year old wine to still have some energy. Perhaps the 1997 vintage did not have as much tannic backbone. In any event, this wine, although drinkable, is decidedly muted in character, with some cherry and spice aromas, a brownish tinge at the rim, and not persistent flavours, palette weight or length. The finish is drying and short. This wine is past its best. I waited an hour for it to come around, to no avail. The 2005 Bruno Desaunay-Bissey (formerly a supplier to Dominique Laurent) Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes was a truly superb wine, quite unlike this one. It's not terrible, but I've had better Pinots for a third of the price. It was better than the horrid 1996 La Grande Rue opened last Christmas Day, which is very faint praise. Hopefully this streak will end soon. It seems drinking Burgundy is an immoderate experience.

[Andy Velebil]

Not familiar with this vintage of Burg, and bummer it wasn't good. How was the vintage overall?


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[Ray Barnes]

The Hachette du Vin gives the vintage an overall rating of 14/20 for Echezeaux. I hesitate to refer to a vintage assessment for all of Burgundy, as the Cote d'Or can have different results from the Cote de Beaune. For instance the 2000 vintage is much maligned, yet the heavy September rain fell in the Cote de Beaune and around the Maconnais. What I should have considered or known is that Echezeaux wines (again as per the Hachette) typically go for 10 to 15 years, except in great vintages where they can last for 20.

[Ray Barnes]

Well, just when you think you've seen everything in your world of wine, a surprise happens. This wine was retasted twice yesterday, a full 2 days after opening, the second time with a colleague. Both tastings were consistent, this wine has improved since its somewhat dissapointing uncorking. First of all, the effects of oxidization were not very significant; it seems this table wine shows excellent resistance. The wine had more pronounced spice and black cherry aromas. On the palette, it revealing an unexpected touch of black currant, along with discreet toastiness and a bit of silkiness. The colleague and I agreed that the wine was quite drinkable and enjoyable. I suspect about 5 to 10 years ago, it would have been excellent, I would now put it in the good to very good range. Regrettably it did not gather extra length in the finish. At $75 a bottle I would consider buying it again, depending on the vintage and age of the bottle. One can be thankful it finished better than it started.