This site is for discussion of travel to the "Land of Port & Madeira" as well as food related to Port or Portugal. Additionally your Offline tasting events can be planned and reviewed here.
Thomas V wrote:
Regarding Opaparico, I presume you need a reservation.
What kind of food do they server and I reckon the wine card is crackin'?
What is the price range?
Dresscode?
Can you walk there on foot from down town Oporto?
I would advise a reservation.
You can get some idea of the food and wine, but not the actual menu and wine list here: http://www.opaparico.com/
They were really trying to sell some less known Portuguese wines, and I wasn't as impressed with those wines as they were.
I wore nice slacks and a nice long sleeve shirt. Others were dressed more nicely than I (probably more of the locals), and I think a few people were more causual (polo type shirts, probably more of the tourists).
I don't think you want to walk from downtown--it will take you about an hour or more. And the nearest metro station still leaves about a 20 minute walk. But by taxi it is about 15 minutes away from downtown, maybe a little more with traffic.
Thomas V wrote:
Regarding Opaparico, I presume you need a reservation.
What kind of food do they server and I reckon the wine card is crackin'?
What is the price range?
Dresscode?
Can you walk there on foot from down town Oporto?
I would advise a reservation.
You can get some idea of the food and wine, but not the actual menu and wine list here: http://www.opaparico.com/
They were really trying to sell some less known Portuguese wines, and I wasn't as impressed with those wines as they were.
I wore nice slacks and a nice long sleeve shirt. Others were dressed more nicely than I (probably more of the locals), and I think a few people were more causual (polo type shirts, probably more of the tourists).
I don't think you want to walk from downtown--it will take you about an hour or more. And the nearest metro station still leaves about a 20 minute walk. But by taxi it is about 15 minutes away from downtown, maybe a little more with traffic.
Had a look earlier at the website. But only some nice pictures but no wine list nor menu. But that is fine.
I think I will stick to some nice Douro red like Crasto or Vale de Meão and take a taxi. Don't want to be soaked in sweat when we get there (will be in September).
As far as cultural sites in Porto go, I would check out the Igreja de Sao Francisco. Gorgeous baroque/gothic church. Check out the catacombs if it doesn't creep you out.
They have a really interesting wine list - also especially for Port Wine. I remember many evenings where I spend more for the Port than for the food... The place is just magic - if you find it. The restaurant is really not easy to spot... even taxi-drivers have often problems with it... remember the house number... and you will need to be brave to knock on the door, because the house looks like a normal house and not like a restaurant... but inside it's a different world. Focus on the starters - they are just fantastic. As main dish: Octopus! I don't see it on the attached menu as main dish - but in the past they had it, and it was really good.
"O Paparico" is my preferred restaurant in Porto - and maybe in the whole North of Portugal. You will like it. And if you tell Sergio and his colleagues that you are lovers of Portuguese wines they will be for sure delighted and will treat you even better...
Marco D. wrote:As far as cultural sites in Porto go, I would check out the Igreja de Sao Francisco. Gorgeous baroque/gothic church. Check out the catacombs if it doesn't creep you out.
Great suggestion Marco. I will put it on my list.
Christian Gollnick wrote:"O Paparico" is a marvelous restaurant - and for me no Porto visit is complete without stopping by there!
They have a really interesting wine list - also especially for Port Wine. I remember many evenings where I spend more for the Port than for the food... The place is just magic - if you find it. The restaurant is really not easy to spot... even taxi-drivers have often problems with it... remember the house number... and you will need to be brave to knock on the door, because the house looks like a normal house and not like a restaurant... but inside it's a different world. Focus on the starters - they are just fantastic. As main dish: Octopus! I don't see it on the attached menu as main dish - but in the past they had it, and it was really good.
"O Paparico" is my preferred restaurant in Porto - and maybe in the whole North of Portugal. You will like it. And if you tell Sergio and his colleagues that you are lovers of Portuguese wines they will be for sure delighted and will treat you even better...
I don't see how I cannot go there since all of you inhere recommend O Paparico. I will be sure to say hi from all the FTLOP guys and mention that I love their wines.
Note:
I updated the OP with all the great information people have brought to my attention.
Thomas V wrote:Is it true you can catch the train from Pinhão to Quinta do Vesuvio and Vargellas?
Yes you can, and I highly recommend it. It is a stunningly beautiful train ride. An option if you're into hiking: take the train to Vargellas and walk to Vesuvio. We did this a couple of times, it's a gorgeous hike. You do need to have a good map though, as there isn't a clear track for the whole route, and it helps to know the train schedule: you need to walk through a train tunnel and over the bridge at a certain point...
But enough about me, what do YOU think of me? -- Johnny Bravo
Also, just to give an additional opinion, I was less enthusiastic than others about Vinum. Great views, but the food is nothing special and the (wine) service was rather clumsy on the night we visited.
But enough about me, what do YOU think of me? -- Johnny Bravo
Thanks for the input Ronald. Good to get some nuances of opinions on these things.
There has been a slight change in plans. The group tour we were going to go on was cancelled as there was not a sufficient amount of people to make the travel economical sound for the travel agent.
Luckily my fall-back plan is actually even better than the original one. A friend of mine that is the Danish importer of Bulas, Vieira de Sousa, DR and Quinta da Gaivosa has offered that my friend and I can join their private tour in September.
We are going to stay in a small apartment north of Pinhão and we will be driven around by said friend and his buddies. The visits include the below quintas where we will meet the winemakers and get private tours. Also tastings will be at a very very friendly price.
Val Figuera
Quinta da Gaivosa
Vieira de Sousa & Magaelhas (Quinta do Silval)
Bulas
and perhaps DR
After those 4 days in the Douro valley we will return to Porto by train and spend 2-4 days there seeing all the sights and lodges as mentioned earlier just by our selves. I suspect we will meet other port enthusiasts there as well.
Any of you going to be in Porto from the 20-23rd of September that want to meet up?
So a lot has changed since my initial post in this thread.
We wont be going on a group tour, neither with my importer friends. Unfortunately those options fell through.
Alas we shall still have a magnificent trip my friend and I.
We shall be arriving in Porto on the 29th of August, staying one night and then catching the train to Pinhão the next day. (Seems you cannot book the train tickets so well in advance?). The next 4 days we will spend in the Douro where we have private appointments set up at Quevedo, DR and Vieira de Sousa currently. Also I have booked visits at Seixo, Bomfim and Tedo. Our hub is Pinhão where we ill stay at the LBV hotel and then grab taxis to get around. Most of the appointments are not that far and are close to a main road, so that is perfect.
I have sent out many more requests for visits, but it seems like the people of the Douro aren't huge fans of replying to e-mails. I was really hoping to visit Napoles as well, but we will see.
On the Friday we will return via train to Porto and stay there until Monday afternoon. We have booked a visit at Graham's lodge and a lunch at Vinum and also I am ready to make a reservation at O'Paparico (They only accept bookings 1 month in advance). I also have a friend investigate if we could get some private tastings arranged via Sonia Figuera and Gustavo Devesas, we shall see. Would be interesting and great.
What other lodges we shall visit is not set in stone as we need some flexibility to be able to go with the flow. Also need time to hang out at Portologia and Bachus Vini.. (Could someone explain a little about these 2 bars and what characterise them?). Also read about a place called Wine Box? But we are very open for suggestion for lodges, restaurants, bars, sights or anything of the like.
If one would go looking to buy some port while in Porto / Douro, where would best look for some variety or special bottles? (I do realize it isn't particular cheap to buy port in Porto)
Ohh any of you in Porto from the 2nd September to the 5th? Let me know..
Regarding Opaparico, I presume you need a reservation.
What kind of food do they server and I reckon the wine card is crackin'?
What is the price range?
Dresscode?
Can you walk there on foot from down town Oporto?
The menu changes and is pretty diverse, but you won't be disappointed. I never have been.
Not too bad, but not cheap either and depends on how much you buy.
Business casual is fine.
Yes, make a reservation early.
The wine list is pretty amazing, at many different price points.
Thomas V wrote:Also need time to hang out at Portologia and Bachus Vini.. (Could someone explain a little about these 2 bars and what characterise them?). Also read about a place called Wine Box? But we are very open for suggestion for lodges, restaurants, bars, sights or anything of the like.
Portologia is still worth a stop, but it isn't what is once was before the ownership change. I would definitely try to find out what some of the other comparable places are. I know there are some new ones since I was first in Porto, but I didn't have much time to check them out during my last visit.
Eric Menchen wrote:Portologia is still worth a stop, but it isn't what is once was before the ownership change.
Portologia has changed ownership already now, too?
Or are you mixing it up with Vinologia? (Which has now both changed owners and moved down the hill a bit closer to the river... coincidentally nearer to Portologia.)
Edit: nevermind, it appears that what happened is Vinologia changed owners, moved down the hill to 28-30 Rua de Sao Joao, and changed its name to Portologia. I'd heard that Portologia was a different shop, but everything I find on Google seems to indicate that they're one and the same.
Frederick Blais wrote:Thomas, I'll try to help you for Napoles, sending you a PM.
That is wonderful. Thank you, this forum rocks!
Frederick Blais wrote:This one is also a great wine bar : http://prova.com.pt/ The owner is a real geek and passionnate about wine!
I will have to take a look at that place.
Any opinions on Cabaz do Infante Garrafeira Wine & Grocery store as a place to buy a bottle or two in Porto?
Andy Velebil wrote:
Business casual is fine.
Yes, make a reservation early.
The wine list is pretty amazing, at many different price points.
I will book as soon as I am within the month they require before the visit. We will dress sharply and explore what is on the menu and the wine card. I really look forward to it.
Any input on why I can't buy train tickets yet? Places to shop bottles?
Don't worry about buying train tickets in advance. I never have. You can buy tickets at the station (either Sao Bento or Campanha) or on the train. It will cost you the same wherever you buy your tickets and there are no seat reservations or anything.
Last time I used the train was on a Sunday in June. We used the 9am train to get from Port Sao Bento to Pinhao. We were really worried when we got to Sao Bento station and found 4 groups of cruise ship passengers were also using the train to get from Porto to Regua to meet their ships. We (a group of 3 of us) were lucky enough to get seats but a lot of people had to stand until Regua and there was not much standing room either.
thanks for you input. We will be staying very close to Sao Bento railway station (300 meters) so we will take the train from there. Then I think you have to make a change at Campanha but that is no issue. We will just buy the tickets the day we arrive for the next day. Should sort that.
thanks for you input. We will be staying very close to Sao Bento railway station (300 meters) so we will take the train from there. Then I think you have to make a change at Campanha but that is no issue. We will just buy the tickets the day we arrive for the next day. Should sort that.
Depends on the train, you may or may not have to change trains. Try to stick to the "IR" (InterRegional) trains as you shouldn't have to change trains. If you get a U/IR train then you probably will be changing at some point.
Their website has been totally redone and is WAY easier to use now than the old one. Some trains are the "express" trains and they make less stops and are faster. I try to take those otherwise the trip is a bit longer. About 2 hours for the express train and about 2 1/2 hours for the non-express.
thanks for you input. We will be staying very close to Sao Bento railway station (300 meters) so we will take the train from there. Then I think you have to make a change at Campanha but that is no issue. We will just buy the tickets the day we arrive for the next day. Should sort that.
Depends on the train, you may or may not have to change trains. Try to stick to the "IR" (InterRegional) trains as you shouldn't have to change trains. If you get a U/IR train then you probably will be changing at some point.
Their website has been totally redone and is WAY easier to use now than the old one. Some trains are the "express" trains and they make less stops and are faster. I try to take those otherwise the trip is a bit longer. About 2 hours for the express train and about 2 1/2 hours for the non-express.
I've been to this site and I can see the itinerary for the trains to from Porto - Pinhao on the relevant days, but when I want to purchase it just says I have to go to one of the CP offices. Ohh well.
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and explore what is on the menu and the wine card. I really look forward to it.