TN: 1998 Weingut Tesch Langenlonsheimer Lohrer Berg Riesling Eiswein

[John Trombley]

7/30/2017 rated 97 points: 1998 Weingut Tesch Langenlonsheimer Lohrerberg Riesling Eiswein, AP 21-99; 9.5 percent ABV. From a great Eiswein year in the Nahe. Coravin first broach to le Taster. This wine is grown on the east-facing slope of the Lohrer Berg that consists of almost bright-yellow gravelly soil composed decomposed red sandstone, clay, and loam, seemingly ideal for Eiswein. Sadly, Martin Tesch makes no wines with residual sugar at all these days, so this wine is not being made any more. The 1998 was an early-picked, four day Eiswein freeze being common. Most of the year's Eisweins that I've had access to have been non-botrytis.

Rich brass color without tears. Fascinating vanilla cream, bourbon barrel, and apricot/botrytis; fresh ginger; ripe cherries, Darjeeling tea, hint of sweet orange, all quite resinous.

Very sweet, almost hiding its considerable acidity that comes out in the wash. Luscious yet bracing. Texture thick, that of a TBA Eiswein; really sui generis, and, though I don't generally favor botrytis-affected Eisweine, this is something very special.

Wonderfully complex, absolutely at peak, and at $35/375 plus shipping from WineBid hard to think of a better value.

Drink now and till 2040 However, tasted a month later from the same Coravined bottle, quite oxidized, so suggests more like 'drink now-2019'.