TN: 2012 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese: Awkward but Very Promising!

[John Trombley]

2012 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Germany, Mosel, Bereich Bernkastel [Mittelmosel])

8.5 pabv, AP 27 13; $42/750 ml; Dorothy Lane Market, Oakville, OH. Cellars International/Rudi Wiest. Coravin/Le Taster.

Polished rich brass, at first fully spritzig. Because initial contact suggested quite a bit more lees aroma (what some people call 'sulfur stink') than usual, along with 'Sponti' still perceptible in the form of a fermented hay note, sample was subsequently splash decanted. Green, minty notes of honey-drizzled peach and kiwi and clotted cream, perhaps even salt butter, and with a note of energetic minerality underneath and full Spätlese mouth weight. Entrance sweet and limy but with a softish mid-palate at first, perhaps due to adolescent awkwardness, but fills in at about an hour. Gives a harmonious and brilliant glissando of flavor somehow containing and enfolding everything the wine has to show so far. Finish comes back strong and expressive with a tonic twist, encouraging me to think that even better times are in store. Drinking soon, a vigorous splash decant recommended, but better still, 2020 through 2030. 92+? for now.