2017 Harvest report

[Luc Gauthier]

You're right
You can only irrigate the vines up to the 5th year
Then you need permission from the IDVP

[Tom Archer]

I actually thought that irrigation wasn't permitted in the Douro, but I guess I was mistaken

You can only irrigate the vines up to the 5th year

What goes on out of sight is another matter though.

A few years ago a producer took me to see a quinta he was hoping to buy - getting there was only just possible in a 4x4 - crashing through washouts and extreme gradients as we did so.

A sheltered idyllic spot - a combe in English - I've no idea what the Portuguese would call it. There were plenty of fairly mature vines there - pruned, I was told, to maximise quantity rather than quality.

A derelict farm, a borehole - and irrigation lines.. - everywhere..

[Andy Velebil]

And keep in mind that Quinta is used for dry wines.


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[Tom Archer]

And keep in mind that Quinta is used for dry wines

- Not wet ones?

[Andy Velebil]

And keep in mind that Quinta is used for dry wines

- Not wet ones?

If Prats has his way they will be

[Andy Velebil]

And since these are not used for Port, one can irrigate vines for Douro wines (unless I have had a total brain fart this morning and you can't).

[Tom Archer]

I'm not absolutely sure what wines were being made from those vines - it was a high grade quinta that had been spotted as being potentially superb for VP, if better managed..

[Andy Velebil]

I'm not absolutely sure what wines were being made from those vines - it was a high grade quinta that had been spotted as being potentially superb for VP, if better managed..

I am almost certain that this Quinta is now mostly (totally??) used for the production of dry wines now. Will have to check on that. Though even if some of it is still used for Port just irrigate the non-port vines and all is fine.

However, this being the Port industry and the IVDP... if memory serves one can irrigate vines used for Port under certain conditions and with prior approval. I'm talking about after the initial few years where it is allowed because you have to irrigate new plantings until they take hold.

[Tom Archer]

Are you thinking of the same place? - I can't name it because I don't think the sale went through and the guy is still after it..

[Andy Velebil]

Are you thinking of the same place? - I can't name it because I don't think the sale went through and the guy is still after it..

Apologizes for not being clear. I was referring to Quinta d. Roriz.

[Tom Archer]

Apologizes for not being clear. I was referring to Quinta d. Roriz

Different Quinta..

[Roy Hersh]

The 2017 harvest was the earliest on record, but that is not news. Most finished harvesting even their Port grapes, prior to the end of September. There are very few exceptions, but some do exist.

While yields are down, additionally there were loads of raisins in all 3 sub-regions at almost every property we visited, about 20 in total while in the Douro during PHT1 and PHT2. Early picking was the key, but phenolics are not in perfect balance. Those that waited and picked later in the month, for their reds and Ports, had ridiculously extracted grapes in lagares. I was going to name all of the places where we paid close attention to the colors, but let's just say from that standpoint alone ... I can't think of a single harvest where the colors were as close to blackish purple as this year. We tasted several 2016 and even more 2017s, the latter vintage either from lagar or fermented and fortified samples. Really impressive. Lots of talk from all but two visits where people are exalting the virtues of 2017. Two even hinted that those declaring 2016, may bolster their final blends with a little 2017 to add more color. Yakety yak.

Anyway, we asked everybody about 2015. There were 4 producers of nearly two dozen in total that believe their 2016s are even better than their 2015. No real surprise. Explanations varied widely. So we will have to wait for the 2016s to be declared and then compare and contrast. It was very interesting hearing the differing opinions, but those that believe in 2016 are quite confident in their decisions.

More in my upcoming report.

[Jasper A.]

The 2017 harvest was the earliest on record, but that is not news. Most finished harvesting even their Port grapes, prior to the end of September. There are very few exceptions, but some do exist.

While yields are down, additionally there were a good amount of raisins on vines in all 3 sub-regions at almost every property we visited, about 20 in total while in the Douro during PHT1 and PHT2 last month. Those that waited and picked later in the month, for their reds and Ports, had ridiculously extracted grapes in lagares. I was going to name all of the places where we paid close attention to the colors, but let's just say from that standpoint alone ... I can't think of a single harvest where the colors were as close to blackish purple as this year. We tasted several 2016 and even more 2017s, the latter vintage either from lagar or fermented and fortified samples. Really impressive. Lots of talk from all but two visits where people are exalting the virtues of 2017 for Port. Two even hinted that those declaring 2016, may bolster their final blends by adding a small % of 2017 to add more color. Yakety yak.

Anyway, we asked everybody about 2015. There were 4 producers of nearly two dozen in total that believe their 2016s are even better than their 2015. No real surprise. Explanations varied widely. So we will have to wait for the 2016s to be declared and then compare and contrast. It was very interesting hearing the differing opinions, but those that believe in 2016 are quite confident in their decisions. The quantity of 2015 VPs that were approved by the IVDP, is said to exceed that of 2011. That being said, it is too early to know how many will actually hit the marketplace. I met with two winemakers that had received approval to bottle and are now having second thoughts; both of which I have tasted twice in June-August.

More in my upcoming report.

Thanks for the update Roy. I heard that some producers that ignored the 2015 for the 2016 are really regretting it, because 2017 has so much power. So they could have declared 2015 & 2017, and (with not declaring back to back) only 2017.

[Tom Archer]

I heard that some producers that ignored the 2015 for the 2016 are really regretting it, because 2017 has so much power.

Early days yet..

There was a time when the producers could be dismissive about years that didn't 'fit in' - and get away with it..

..but now too many people know that good years can and do follow each other.

Roughly seven out of ten vintages are declarable by the standards currently expected, whereas only half that number are actually declared. Let's keep the declaration system, but press the producers to raise the benchmark and only pick the very best years - even when they follow each other..

[Roy Hersh]

Lots of talk in Douro about doing away with declarations altogether. Until now, I've always been against that idea. Did you also hear this being talked about whilst there Tom?

[Tom Archer]

Lots of talk in Douro about doing away with declarations altogether. Until now, I've always been against that idea. Did you also hear this being talked about whilst there Tom?

The old 'town and gown' conflict..

Where the old school shippers still triumph over the Portuguese is in their understanding of market sentiment at the high end of the trade.

Radical change is never a good idea with vintage port, and even minor changes need to be eased in with caution. The Portuguese do seem to be more ephemeral in their outlook and, for example, have much more time for fancy packaging that is, ultimately, pointless. The shippers however do need to discard their aversion to two year declaration intervals, after which, back to backs should be indulged - but the first one needs to be a stonking grand pair to prove the argument for change.

Aside from that, the other thing that really needs change is those wretched selos - I was moving some OB G70 yesterday with fine 'old school' Graham labels - but with disintegrating selos that make them look cheap and scrappy.

It's time for the industry to move on from those - any pretence that they represent a 'guarantee' is blown out of the water when you learn that they can only be traced to the bottler, who is usually unable to discern if they were put on a bottle of vintage - or cheap ruby..