Dung into Gold: TN: Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Riesling Eiswein AP 22

[John Trombley]

10/24/2017 rated 94 points: 1998 Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Riesling Eiswein AP 22 99; $90/375 ml, bp, WineBid; $113 FOB Piqua, OH. Imported by Skurnik/Theise. 9.5 pabv.

A very interesting color presentation from this cork-finished half-bottle, a combination of brilliance and slight golden metallicity, with a warm amber haze. From Coravin to Riedel Riesling and Le Taster. A very even but substantial sheeting shows.

The botrytis of this Eiswein is not hidden in its vividly grapy, somewhat forward fruit that presents itself initially--orange, clove, nutmeg, and mild bakeshop aromas, for instance, but underneath there is an almost pure redcurrant preserve impression. Very vivid, nearly searing acidity as it were laid on to what would be a beautiful breakfast confection built around a sweet pepper and thyme jelly. This wine is delightful as is but giving it another 3 to 7 years would be all to its (and our) good.

One of the potentially greatest and earliest (mid-November) Eiswein vintages of my time; however, most of the best others are very 'clean' wines on average compared with this nobly-rotten one. This one is actually still a bit too edgy for best pleasure and would give it about 3-5 more years. It certainly will be a 30-year wine, well-kept! 94/100 RPP.

The 'Donkey Skin' ('Eselshaut') of the Einzellage name refers to a German mythic 'fairy tale' related to 'Cinderella'. The donkey in question had the ability to turn dung into gold, as this vineyard unquestionably does.

This is a large sandy area (300 ha) that was reclassified in 1969 with similar surrounding areas (the 'Meerspinne') to the Deutscher Weinstraße/Neustadt (northern Pfalz) region and which this estate has exploited so brilliantly under Hans-Gunther Schwarz and his successors. The ability of this acreage to produce fine wine could be more related to surface topography than soil composition, allowing frosty airs to descend and drain from the growing surface down into the Rheingraben. (See German-language edition of Wikipedia).

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November 16, emptied from balance of Coravin half-bottle to leTaster and Riesling Riedel. Cork-finished wet up sides; original Coravin October 23. At first refrigerator temperature. Scattered tears? (Possible need for better polishing of glasses!) Plenty bitty; now light-colored for type. Plenty of large tartrate plates visible with a little care.

Grass/redcurrant with fresh air, little or no radish; mildly baked apricot/honey confection. Showing vivid punchy lemony activity, with sufficient ripeness and residual to show a slightly light-TBA stylishness. Hits all the buttons but needs a little more integration for best pleasure--can prove a little palate-fatiguing now. 92/100 on plure pleasure; 94/100 on quality Give 2020-2030 for best results, and don't be afraid to decant an hour or three beforehand.

[Eric Ifune]

Muller-Catoir is an interesting place. Their vineyards are not first rate, but Han-Gunter did some remarkable things with them. Makes you wonder what he could have done with Forster Kirckenstuck or something around Deidesheim. I think I may have some of their 1998 Mussbacher Eselshaut Rieslander TBA.

[John Trombley]

Schwarz is a master of Rieslaner, certainly. I have no idea what makes this grape potentially a great producer in a given place, but he certainly does! Just like Wittman does with Albalonga. And I don't think we'll have to despair of our 1998s going over the hill anytime soon.