Portugal Trip - Seeking Advice

[Jason B]

Hi all,

I am travelling to Portugal on Saturday (13th November) and will be spending 4 nights in Lisbon, 4 nights in Porto and 2 nights in the 6 senses in the Duoro and am after some advice on various port related things!

I have been to Lisbon and Porto before and done it very touristy in that we did basically the top stuff on Tripadvisor, but visiting this time I would like to be a bit more savvy and investigate what actually might be worth while.

Some Notes:

• I do love port, but I am far from an expert on the stuff - although this is a journey I would like to take in obtaining some nice vintages. I obtained a 2016 vintage last time I was there and have it in storage.

• Also a big fan of LBV

• Last time we visited we went to the Fonseca lodge.

• I have viewed the tasting notes database for an idea of what years to look out for.

Can I ask:

• Suggested quintas to visit on our time in the Douro

• Suggested wine lodges to visit (focus on night LBV and Vintage, not so keen on Tawny)

• Location to buy port at a decent price.

• Always happy with restaurant suggestions!

• Always happy with bar suggestions!

[Glenn E.]

If you are spending 2 nights at Six Senses Douro then you should definitely set up a tasting a Quinta do Mourao, which is basically next door. I believe that you can set up a tasting via their website, which is https://www.quintadomourao.pt/en/ but I should point out that their specialty is Tawny Port. Even if you think you don't like Tawny Port that much, though, it's worth a visit because theirs are outstanding.

As for lodges in Porto/Vila Nova de Gaia, I recommend the Sandeman lodge and the Ramos Pinto lodge. Make a reservation (day of is fine) for Ramos Pinto so that you can make sure to get the language you prefer. The Ramos Pinto tour includes a tour of their old HQ building, which is attached to the lodge and is now a museum. World of Wine is also worth a visit if you don't mind the trek up the hill - it's brand new, very shiny, and has something like 7 museums and 9 restaurants on the grounds. You could spend a couple of days there if you wanted to.

The Graham lodge (further west) is also a good visit, and you can time it to coincide with lunch or dinner in their restaurant. The Graham lodge also lets you tailor your tasting experience a bit, so if you want some higher-end LBVs and VPs you can arrange that while there.

For bars/wine cafes, I recommend both LaDo (aka Lagar D'Ouro at Rua Fonte Taurina 89) and Bacchus Vini (Rua da Lada 14 right next to the Dom Luis bridge on the waterfront). If you tell them that you heard about them from FTLOP you might get extra nice treatment if they aren't too busy.

For a restaurant, you can't go wrong with Taberninha do Manel (Avenida de Diogo Leite 308 in Vila Nova de Gaia), but there are dozens of fantastic restaurants within walking distance of the cais da ribeira in both Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. I'm sure others will provide more recommendations!

[Jason B]

What a wonderful collection of advice! Thank you so much!

Do you happen to recommend any locations to purchase bottles of port? From my research the lodges themselves seem to be considerably over priced.

[Glenn E.]

Ironically, buying Port in Porto or Vila Nova de Gaia generally isn't a great idea unless you have connections. As you noticed at the lodges, it's expensive there likely because most places have priced their wares for tourists. That said, they're generally not overpriced, they're just full retail or the equivalent. We're just not used to paying full retail.

If you can get up into the Douro valley itself, though, buying directly from the producers up there can be a better deal. Not always, though - if a producer gets a significant amount of tourism at their Quinta(s) then their prices will again likely be for tourists.

[Glenn E.]

By the way, as a big fan of LBV you should really check to see if Graham is still selling their 2015 as it was superb. Also try to find some of Quinta do Crasto's LBVs as theirs are regularly quite good (and can be as good or better than their VPs).

LBVs from 2011 in general are also excellent, but that's long enough ago that you probably won't find any just sitting on shelves. Some producers might still have some in the back room, but you'd have to ask for it.

[Jason B]

Thanks again for some more incredible advice.

Back to purchasing, just making sure I am not missing something.The Taylors shop in Lisbon is selling a 1994 vintage port for 300 Euro. Using Wine Searcher I seem to able to find the same bottle for £120 after all taxes - that difference seems incredible!