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- NV Poças Porto Tawny Bonificador - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Bottle #717 of 733. Amber-orange in color, this wine is around 25 years of age. The nose offers orange spice, roasted nuts, and a curious note of artificial banana candy that adds a playful twist. Entry is smooth and rich, with cinnamon and red fruits on the palate, leading into a spicy finish marked by red hots and dried fruit. The most intriguing aspect is the finish—it contracts briefly after swallowing, then surges back with a wave of rich complexity and well-integrated acidity. (93 pts.) - NV José Maria da Fonseca Moscatel de Setúbal Alambre 10 Years - Portugal, Península de Setúbal, Moscatel de Setúbal
Light amber-orange in color, resembling a pale Tawny. The nose opens with bright lime peel and orange marmalade, layered over apricot, honey, and a subtle petrol note reminiscent of mature Riesling. On the palate, the wine is light and refreshing on entry, with balanced sweetness and a soft, rounded texture. Citrus and stone fruit dominate the mid-palate, with hints of toasted nuts, caramel, and a faint herbal note—almost like Ricola. The structure is lifted by clean acidity, but there’s a slight rough edge and touch of petrol that lingers. It drinks like a richer, more structured Spätlese, and White Port fans may find this a fascinating crossover. Less oxidative than a classic Tawny, but still complex and engaging. (92 pts.) - NV José Maria da Fonseca Moscatel de Setúbal Alambre 20 Years - Portugal, Península de Setúbal, Moscatel de Setúbal
Yellow-orange in color, showing clear signs of extended aging. The nose is expressive, with rich aromas of candied citrus peel, lemon drops, and a touch of petrol layered over dried apricot and warm spice. On the palate, it opens with a burst of sweet, concentrated lemon candy—reminiscent of Lemonheads—followed by deeper notes of orange marmalade, fig, and toasted almond. Richer and more layered than the 10 Year, with a fuller body and greater intensity. The finish is long and persistent, echoing citrus oils and honeyed complexity. Estimated age feels closer to 25–30 years. (94 pts.) - NV José Maria da Fonseca Moscatel de Setúbal Alambre 30 Years - Portugal, Península de Setúbal, Moscatel de Setúbal
Yellow-brown in color, reminiscent of an aged White Port. The nose is striking, with layered aromas of salted chocolate, dried fig, caramelized citrus peel, and warm baking spice. Entry is rich and deeply complex, showing a dense core of dried fruit, cocoa, and toffee balanced by a savory edge. The wine unfolds slowly across the palate, with waves of flavor and a velvety texture. Beautiful integration and elegance throughout. Estimated age feels closer to 40 years. (95 pts.)