White Port Recommendations

[R. McNamara]

Years ago, my wife had a white Port in Portugal that she loved. She thinks it was sweet, but doesn't remember anything else about it.

I'm trying to find two good "example" white Ports to see whether or not I like this style of wine -- one dryish and one sweet. They don't happen to be cheap. I believe that when trying to figure out of I'm going to like a type of wine its best to try something good.

[Jason Brandt Lewis]

The best, in my experience, is Churchill's -- I go through approx. six bottles a year of the stuff! Absolutely great! (Just ask Roy, though I think I may have discovered this one first.)

[Steven Kooij]

I personally prefer the drier white Ports. Of those, Niepoort's "Dry White" and "Ultrasec" (unfortunately pretty rare) are extremely tasty, and I'll second Jason's recommendation of the Churchill as well. Probably very difficult to find outside of Portugal (although both are being exported on a small scale) are Qta. d. Baldias and Qta. d. Marrocas.

The best really sweet white Port I've tasted is the Presidential 1952 Golden White Reserve - a Colheita type of white Port.

[alec]

I do like Churchill's too but also try Osbourne's white port. It's really quite nice. White port is a wonderful, overlooked wine that one can still purchase by the case without going to the poorhouse.

I've heard of colheita white ports....anyone know where to find them? I must try one.

--A

[Steven Kooij]

Alec, I haven't come across the Osborne, but will give it a try should I find a bottle!

Re.: Colheita white Ports - I know of only three in existance available on the open market: Niepoort 1917, Kopke 1935 and the above mentioned Presidential 1952.

In 2004, the Casa do Douro released a bottling of '63 and '64 Ports that carried the word "Lagrima" on the label - a term usually used for white Port. These *might* be white Colheitas as well...although the '63 I tasted was nothing like a white Port at all. Perhaps Roy knows a bit more about these bottlings? My tasting note on the '63 (from May 2004):

The Casa do Douro is one of the regulating organisations for the Port and Douro wine industry, and was established to represent the (small) wine growers in the Douro valley. As such, it buy wines from these small growers (some 24.000 are registered), and sells the wine to the larger shippers and exporters, thus giving the growers (some) financial security.

The bottle I have in front of me now is nr. 35.839 of a total of 1.000.000 bottles of Port wine from 1963 and 1964 to be sold by the Casa. According to the label (a pretty cheap and ugly affair, BTW), these wines only to be sold to people living or born in the Douro valley, and it boasts a threatening “not for resale”. Understandable, as the ’64 is sold at 35 Euros, while the ’63 is 40 Euros (a bit more expensive, but what Port lover could resist that magic year 1963?).

However, I’m not sure WHAT kind of Port is in the bottle. The label doesn’t say “Colheita”, only a generic “Vinho Generoso” and “Lagrima”, a term most often used for the sweetest of White Ports. Only one way to find out!

Casa do Douro 1963 Porto (bottled 2004). Colour is a light brown, with not even a hint of red or orange in sight. Not unlike a 30 or 40 YOT.
As I poured it in the glass I knew I was in for a treat…this smells wonderful. Without waltzing, there is just a slight whiff of alcohol. It’s fresh and warm, with marzipan, dried orange peel and wood smoke. Not very powerful, but very good all the same.
Thick bodied, medium sweet. A beautiful interplay between nutty and citrus flavours that just doesn’t fades away. The midpalate develops a distinct touch of brown sugar and dried figs.
Exceptional finish; this lasts for minutes. Very, very smooth, sweet yet with a citrus-like acidity and freshly roasted hazelnuts.

This is a wonderful glass of Port: not a blockbuster, but more a seductress…warm, round, graceful and addictive. I doubt it is a white Port, it for sure looks, smells, tastes and finishes as a great Colheita: 94 points.

[Roy Hersh]

I happened to have a number of White Colheita Ports on my trip over the past ten days and will provide specific TNs in due course. There are certainly others than the ones that Steven mentioned above.

I will also provide TNs on a slew of white Ports. Churchill used to be my favorite and it is quite consistent. Having had about 15 or so this trip, I will share my opinions in the next newsletter. Until then, you may find others from the trip who are willing to post their TNs or opinions.

Dalva is just one of the producers that is making great white Port by the way.

[Jason Brandt Lewis]

Churchill used to be my favorite . . .

Oooooh, that's quite provocative!

Looking forward to your sicoveries, Roy.

Cheers,
Jason

[Alex K.]

I bought a bottle of Fonseca White Port in its own coffin about six years ago. I've just never got around to opening it. Somewhere in my mind must be the thought that if I leave it alone it might get better but I somehow doubt it, it has the look of being filtered through a Brita jug so bottle-aging is a forlorn hope. The only other possibility is that my tastes change enough for them to coincide with the opening of the bottle which I think will be when I'm about 95 and have just completed the London Marathon.

I'd like to point out that Stevie Cage has poured some fantastic White Port down my throat but I suspect that the above will not compare.

[Steven Kooij]

KillerB: if it isn't already dead, drown that sucker in Tonic, add ice and mint and it might be enjoyable. Fonseca's white Port never did rock my boat.
Roy; looking forward to the TNs! I'm very curious as to which other producers make Colheita WP.

[Alex K.]

I'm considering the possiblity of sending down the river on a flaming raft whether its alive or not.

[Ronald Wortel]

plants really seem to like fonseca's white port.

[David Pope]

I must confess that I don't think I've ever had a white port! Would you chill them normally? The dry ones and the sweet ones?

And when would you serve them? I presume the dry ones would be drunk as an aperitif and the sweet ones with cheese or after the meal but am I wrong?

[Al B.]

David,

From what I've read above, I think Alex K would gladly part with his Fonseca White port for you to try as your first one.

The only trouble is, you might never try white port again! I think something similar happened to me years ago. I tried a white port in Portugal, REALLY didn't enjoy it and have never drunk any since.

Alex

[Jason Brandt Lewis]

I must confess that I don't think I've ever had a white port! Would you chill them normally? The dry ones and the sweet ones?

Lightly chilled; not cold.

And when would you serve them? I presume the dry ones would be drunk as an aperitif and the sweet ones with cheese or after the meal but am I wrong?

Very rarely is anything wrong in the world of wine, but -- depending upon one's prefernce -- both can be served as apertifs. Don't think of the sweet version as "sweet like a Trockenbeerenauslese" or of the dry version as "dry like Muscadet." The "dry" White Porto typically contains some degree of residual sugar; the "sweet" versions, more so. I've had the sweet version with foie gras, as one would serve a fine Sauternes for example, and it was quite delicious.

As mentioned above, Churchill's is my favorite so far -- and it's great either alone, or with an array of foods like Marcona almonds, salumi, cheeses, etc., before a meal.

Cheers,
Jason

[Kevin B. Kelly]

Although I, too, love the Churchill's Dry White Port, I can also recommend the Quinta do Infantado Dry White Port. It is certainly more sweet than the Churchill's, but an excellent white port if you can find it.

----------------------------
Kevin B. Kelly
A Port Enthusiast

[Paul_B]

Hi,

pretty hard to find but the best hands down white port for me is the Mackenzie's Very Old Reserve (by J.H. Anderson Socrs). No mention of year or age on the bottle but I would venture to guess at aged blend of about 20 or even 30 years. Capsule cork.

On the dry side of white port. I never drink them straight, always with tonic or 7-up, ice and lemon or fresh mint leaves. For this function, taylor's chip dry is nice but pricey.

cheers
paba

[Robin L.]

Actually, the MacKenzie's Very Old Reserve is supposed to be 40 yrs old according to the title. I second, by the way: simply astonishing.

[Hugh Robinson]

Ah, white port...

For Porto Tonic (tonic & white port) - lovely chilled on a hot day (beware, its a little too drinkable) I find the cheapest white port you can find is best.

On their own I like the following:

The Calem 'fine' White Port is perfectly drinkable for its price.
However the Calem Lagrima (which I have unfortunately never seen in England) is far preferable.

Messias White is really nice, if pricey.

And of course the Dalva 54 (I think it was that year) was something else. 8)

For those who write off white port, while I'm not an expert its my opinion that there are some really nice white ports out there... and some rubbish. Just don't lay them down and expect them to improve!

I suppose what I'm saying is that White Port is a different beast. It needs to be taken on its own merits and its different to tawny and ruby ports like white is to red wine.

[Andy Velebil]

Ahh yes, the infamous White Port and Tonic...just be sure to add some fresh mint leaves to it. Makes a really refreshing drink on a warm summer day or as an appertiff before lunch or dinner.

(a side note) I had some friends over a few weeks ago for dinner, most of which are not big wine or port drinkers. Actually, one said he hated Port (them are fighting words :twisted: ). So, i gave them a white Port (Fonseca Sirocco), tonic, and mint leaves without telling them, before dinner. They all loved it. Matter of fact the one who hated Port ended up drinking 3 glasses before dinner. After dinner, I openned a bottle of Ferriera 20 yr Tawny. They all loved it and there is now a person who hated Port, who now likes it and drank all he could get his hands on that night.


Krohn's Lagrima white port is awsome and retails for around $13.00 US.

[Gustavo Devesas]

My suggestion goes for:

Sweet White:

Quinta de Baldias White (10 years old)
Quinta da Casa Amarela White
Quinta do Estanho Old White Reserve (15years old)
Quinta Santa Eufémia Old Reserve White (25 years old)

Dry white:

Messias Old Dry (15years old)
Valriz Branco Leve Seco
Churchill's Dry White
Quinta das Heredias Branco Meio Seco (18 years old)