You can view the pictures of this short but much enjoyable trip at this address : http://frederickblais.com/pics/index.php?cat=11
The best things from this trip was the beauty of the Douro valley(and the country) at this time of the year. Many fruits trees were flowering as long as other plants/flowers. So there was no lack of colors and the Douro was certainly not looking dead with no vines to show.
The temperature contrast was huge. From 8 during the night to 22 during the day. This was making a lot of dew in the mountains leading to big clouds in the morning that the sun was working out to get them out of our way. It is quite something to drive in the Douro trough the clouds. It is about the only time you would see a Portuguese drive slowly and not honking at you
Normally at this time, the weather is cold in the Douro averaging 8-12 degree during the day. Showers are something common too. This year, the temperature was hot, peaking at 22 celcius for 2 days and only a few hours of rain for the whole week. The south was experiencing more rain and cold temperature than the north of the country. Port producers were desperately asking for rain to fall! In the Douro, producers were finishing to cut the vines to the root before the shoots start growing.
I did visit Niepoort both in VNG and in the Douro. I was able to visit the new installation in the upper part of Gaia. It is quite a good walk uphill! In the new cellars I was able to withness the newly bottled Garrafeira 1977 that should see the market shelves in 2011. I've tasted an impressive Colheita 88 bottled in 2007 compared to a pleasing but not overwhelming 20 yo. On the Vintage side, the ealy pleaser 2005 was starting to shut down and to show a massive backbone of tannins similar to what 2003 was showing in its youth, this wine is definitively not as appealing as when I tasted it pas September. The 2003 is even more shut, tannins are more tamed, but again everything is so packed and concentrated that it is hard to taste, but promising!! The 2000 Secundum, 2nd style but not 2nd wine, is quite evolved on the nose showing great complexity while on the palate the tannins are still taking over the richness of the fruit that is showing secondary flavours ... already. All the vintages were tasted from half bottles.
At Quinta do Napoles, counstruction is still taking place. This time they are renovating the old house of the Quinta transforming it into new offices. A new lab was installed in the winery, the tasting room and terrases are almost completed. The 2006 was looking promising at Niepoort, but in the end, there was not enough quantity of quality wines to produce the style they aim for Batuta and Charme. Because of the heat, the wines did reach high level of alcohol and with the late rain, some are not having the depth wanted. On the other hand, 2007 is looking very promising. The barrel tasting of the reds was great, some outstanding wines delivery great fruit and purity are on in making. A special blend of Tinta Cao and Pinot Noir was quite interesting to taste. Some new experiences are in the process too, some sparkling chardonnay, Riesling with Auslese level of sugar may see the day but it is not sure at the moment if they will blend it or not with drier Riesling. The blend was great indeed! The most exciting wine or should I say Port was probably the 2007 dry white Port. Made by Luis, he's doing it in the same way he would make a dry wines. It results in a powerfull explosion of tropical fruit with white pepper, clean and dry.
At Quinta do Vale D. Maria, the newly bottled estate wines from 2005 were impressive, the best I've tasted that young. 2006 that will be barrel shortly was not as regular, sometimes showing great, sometimes dillute, just like at Niepoort, the quality was uneven from one barrle to another. 2007 is really showing great, they achieve more finesse and elegance, the Casal do Loivos was definitively the best 2007 I've tasted from their barrels. For lunch, we were able to sample the 2006 CV branco. A fresh and aromatic white that has good complexity, sharp acidity and no flaws. The 2003 Quinta Vale d. Maria served from magnum was still so young and evolving so well. I feared this beast would never evolve and die drying in the bottle. The Fruit is integrating so well, the balance is there, the minerality of the soil is emerging and the alcohol integrating. I had an interesting talk with Sandra about Portuguese oak. She said that their first wine was produce in 100% portuguese oak. But nowadays, it is not as much used, mainly because they increased the quantity of production so the quality is dropping at the same time unfortunately.
Back in Vila Nova Gaia, I had a final tasting at Fonseca's lodges for a lineup of the Croft's and Taylor's Port. I had to taste the newly Single Quinta 2005. Croft Quinta do Roeda was my favourite at the moment showing great backbone, balance and concentration. Terra Feita and Vargellas were in a somewhat too ripe stage for my palate. A characteristic they share with a few other 2004 I've tasted so far. For the tawnys, I did prefer Croft 10 yo to Taylor and as usual Taylor's 40yo did a show on its own with is lingering finale. The single star of the tasting was Taylor's 2003 VP. This is a huge Port in every aspect. The nose is so attractive and intense, flowers, I love floral touch in my Ports, the palate is dense, fresh and decadent with the terrific backbone of tannins that are at no point displeasing. This has everything to be a perfect Port in 3 decades...if it is not already one!
We had enough time to discuss about Taylor's new moves. First one being the distributer for Quinta do Crasto wines on the Portuguese market. This agreeming is the results of many years of friendship between the 2 companies. Taylor has been buying grapes, and his still, from Quinta do Crasto for many decades. In the end this deal is just to do another business opportunity with some good old friends. They told me that I would be surprised to know from all the properties they are buying grapes, some we would never suspect! About the Casa do Douro tawny lots they bought. The average of age of these stocks are near 10 yo. They firmly believe that the quality is good enough to be included in the Taylor's bottle. They also have an expertise to enhance these ports with process already used by many port producers. Casa do Douro does not have only mediocre stocks, you can find everything there, but it is easier to buy them younger if you want to work them to fit your house style. The final topic was the Pink Port. Already well covered on this Forum, I had a small chat with David Guimaraens who is proud of the product. It is quite an achievement as a winemaker to be able to make that style of Port.
If you have the time, you should really visit the Foz Coa Archeological Park. It is the 2nd time I go there. They are protecting a vast area of old carvings dating back to 10,000 and 40,000 years before the Christ. You will be impressed by the details in the carvings for the time these man lived and the nature is so diversed and pure. This February, we were able to harvest fresh wild aspergus, YUMMY!
I must also raise my 2 thumbs for Jean-Philippe Duhart at Vinologia, not only because of the fantastic Dalva 52 we can always taste at his place but for the help he so kindly gave me to recover my luggage at the airport and the great evening I had with him at his restaurant of leitao.
I already miss the country, back in September fo another harvest season? it is quite possible!
