TN: Manuel Eugenio Fernandes More Than 40 Years Old Verdelho Madeira

[Glenn E.]

I tasted this at Roy's house. I believe it is only my second Madiera, but it's certainly my first old Madiera. This bottle was 22% alcohol by volume, which Roy told me is unusual.

The color can be described no other way than brown. Fairly dark in the center fading to tan or khaki and then finally reaching yellow around the rim. Roy and I looked for a green tinge, but couldn't see one. There's a very slight red tint to the whole thing, but it's almost not there. Were it not for the smell, you could have served it in a tall glass and called it Iced Tea and I would have believed you. The liquid was also cloudy, and stayed that way even when I warmed the glass in my palm.

The nose is dominated by what Roy tells me is VA. I tried describing it as nail polish, but that wasn't quite right. Toward the end of the glass I settled on pipe tobacco and that seemed to fit. There's also butterscotch and a very faint, very fleeting hit of vanilla.

The flavor is big, powerful, and extremely complex. My first reaction was "meaty" which we then refined to beef bouillon. It's also spicy in a hot pepper kind of way, with maybe a faint whiff of black pepper as well. I suspect that the spiciness comes from the alcohol, but it wasn't identifiable as such. There's a lot of heat and a lingering warmth in the throat. I also picked up some lime, some salt, and something else citrusy like a sour tangerine. Every taste seemed to bring some new flavor to the fore, but many were so fleeting that I couldn't actually identify them.

The finish was equally complex and kept making me think of dinner in Portugal. I noted a distinct green pepper flavor at one point, and then a little bit later picked out another pepper flavor that reminded me of an Anaheim. There were even more flavors in the finish, which made each sip different because they were constantly changing.

Roy tells me that this Madiera is near the middle but definitely on the dry side of the spectrum, so it's probably not one that I would buy myself as I generally prefer sweeter wines. A very complex drink, though!

[Roy Hersh]

Glenn,

What a great TN and thanks. From your description, I almost felt like I was there tasting it right beside you.

It is about time we enjoyed some Port together. Living in Sammamish has its privileges. Next time you bring a Kracher and I'll pop for Port. How did that Backsberg from So. Africa show on day 2?

[Glenn E.]

It was excellent - I had it with dinner that night!

It wasn't as overtly peachy on day two as it was on day one. The flavors had settled as well into something I can only describe as more mature and sophisticated. Both days were great, but day one was more flowers, sunshine, and sparkly happiness while day two was closer to an elegant evening stroll along the river.

Overly romanticized descriptions in both cases, but it gets the point across.

[Roy Hersh]

Quite well actually. I had a feeling you would enjoy that one. Although i love Port and Madeira the most, I drink lots of other dessert wines (as you saw) to stay on top of the category and taste what other countries do with their sweet products. Tonight it was a 1989 Chat. Rieussec at a small dinner party held here. I saved a glass for tomorrow, to see how it behaves.

[Eric Ifune]

Which cuvee was this? These are terrific examples of Verdelho.

[Roy Hersh]

Eric,

I had only purchased the 48, not the 52 year old (average) examples of this wine. We were there again this past Saturday and had a fantastic time, as we did when you were along with us. I only had 5 more slots that I have saved in my shipper, but filled it with more of these, as I find it superb. What did we pay last year, I never did write it down?

Thanks in advance!

[Eric Ifune]

Oh Man! Of all the wines, this was the one I want more of! Is there a chance of me getting more in the future?
I want to say 125 euros last year. I think the exchange rate was better then.

[Roy Hersh]

They have 7000 bottles total, but I am not sure of the split of the 48 vs. 52. Of course you can obtain more, sign up now for the 2009 version of the Fortification Tour. I am positive we will revisit them. I am also happy to share a bottle with you the next time we get together.

[Eric Ifune]

I'd love to go on the next Fortification tour. I just wish my schedule was stable enough to plan that far ahead. I was in Guatemala so I missed this year's trip. Now I just found out I'm going to Cambodia in the next 5 days! I gotta lot of stuff to do to get ready.

[Roy Hersh]

Watch out for the remnants of the Khmer Rouge. In all seriousness, godspeed in your return to the USA.