2007 Vintage Port is inevitable

[Roy Hersh]

From my visit last week, it now seems almost a certainty that 2007 will be declared.

Unofficial nods were given by the major players in the trade as well as some smaller producers, but everyone we spoke to in every single visit, said the quality will drive the decision to declare next spring. One of the key winemakers who I trust in the entire Douro, said that he'd liken the 2007 harvest and growing conditions to that of 1970 which he also made. This was the 2nd individual in the past three months to mention the link to the 1970, albeit the other Portmaker was not doing so back in 1970 and was only going on what he knows from involvement with his family's records and stories he was told about that vintage.

Regardless, we had the opportunity to actually try some 2006s and 2007s on this trip and I will say that the 2007s I had were quite amazing. Of course it is still pretty early on, but I have had enough experience with samples at this exact stage, to be able to get a glimpse. Impressive juice to be sure, of course it is way early but from all signals, it looks like a fait accompli at this point.

Not lost on the trade is the success they've had with vintages in recent decades (since the 1960s) with vintages ending in the digit, "7" and there has not been anything to speak of with an "8" since 1948. Not such great news: it seems that there will be very little in the way of 2006 that makes its way into SQVPs. Many are using the wines from that vintage for other Ports in their stable. I tasted a handful of 2006s and would say that anybody who needs to find one great one for the birthyear of a child, should DEFINITELY look to Quinta do Vesuvio which was on part with many of their extraordinary efforts.

[John Owlett]

Hi Roy,

May I bring this topic back from the archives to ask: What would happen if 2008 turned out to be an absolutely glorious wine-making season on the Douro?

Would the shippers cancel their unannounced plans to declare a 2007 vintage?

Would they declare both vintages?

Or are these the circumstances from which split declarations are made?

Later,

Dr Owl

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John Owlett, Southampton, UK

[Derek T.]

John,

The economic climate has introduced another dimension here. Someone once told me that there has never been a general decalration in a year in which the economy was in recession. We are on the brink of that and it is more than likely we will be by April 09.

Given the weather reports I have read so far it isn't looking like 2008 will be a stellar year. But it might yet be good enough to produce some very solid wines.

There is no doubt that the trade has an interesting and difficult decision to make in April 2009. Demand will be low, costs will be high it will be 5 years since the last major declaration. The Deer Hunter Russian Rulette scene springs to mind :help:

Derek

[Roy Hersh]

Sadly, two few companies are willing to declare back to back vintages except the SQVPs obviously. There is always the possibility of a split declaration, but there are few of them and I'd expect it would take a really stellar 2008 to knock 2007 off the table. For whatever odd reason, vintages ending in "7" have faired well since 1917.

It would be great if decisions were solely based on the best VP that is on hand at the time, but economics/war and other considerations come into play. Cash flow is a big one too. Prestige is another. Since 2009 almost is a guarantee NOT to be a generally declared vintage (can you name anything better than 1989 that was produced?) then it will be 2007 or 2008. Given that 2007 is a very very fine vintage from ALL accounts except from one board member, but the from Gaia to Oporto everyone is excited ... it is looking like unless 2008 is remarkable and I do mean at least as good as 1994, then it is a moot point.

In a perfect world, both would be able to be declared and some houses will possibly do so. Others will not want to muddy the waters and choose the best of the two.