Portuguese Reds - By Charles Metcalfe - [Wine International]

[Mario Ferreira]

http://www.wineint.com/story.asp?storyCode=1774

Portuguese Reds
21 April 2005
By Charles Metcalfe - [Wine International]

‘The first duty of a wine is to be red,’ said the late, great Harry Waugh. (Or it might have been Hilaire Belloc, or Henri Murger. Maybe they all said it.) It is advice most of Portugal’s serious winemakers seem to have taken very much to heart. Any examination of Portugal’s best wines comes up with lots of reds, but few whites. Take, for instance, the 2004 International Wine Challenge. The scores were, in the red corner, eight gold medals, 40 silvers, 64 bronzes and numerous seals of approval. The whites garnered one bronze and a sprinkling of seals.

Maybe this was why Richard Mayson, the British writer best informed about the wines of Portugal, chose only red wines when he selected ‘50 Great Portuguese Red Wines’ for a tasting in London recently. When asked if he could have chosen 50 great whites, he admitted he would have been pushed to find a dozen.

Everybody present agreed that it was Portugal’s red wines that shone. Richard Mayson made the additional point that only six of the wines tasted existed 20 years ago. ‘The co-ops had the upper hand then,’ he explained. ‘Now Portugal is rediscovering its terroir. The Douro had a head start, because of Port. But Dão is catching up. And regions such as Estremadura and the Ribatejo, which were written off years ago, are coming on fast.’

The Douro was indeed well represented, comprising 20 of the 50 chosen, and 11 of my own 20 favourites. What was this head start? Raymond Reynolds, the UK’s top importer of ‘boutique’ Portuguese wines, described it as ‘the huge heritage of Port. The feel of making wines and of working with the vineyards has been very helpful’. But he added that there was a younger generation which had reconnected with family estates. ‘And they know they can not only do better, but also make more money.’ Sophia Bergqvist of Quinta de la Rosa suggested that the fact the University of Vila Real, home of Portugal’s top oenology course, is within the Douro region was also important.

Certainly, at the moment, it seems that the Douro is the region where the potential for making world-class table wines has been most fully realised. But, as Mayson said, other regions are making up ground. Or, to be more precise, the progress is being made by a small number of winemakers in those regions. Men such as Luis Pato, Alvaro Castro, José Neiva and David Baverstock have regularly outperformed their neighbours. But the neighbours are treading close behind. At last, the long-heralded Portuguese ‘potential’ is becoming actuality.

96 Adriano Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Reserva Especial 2000 Douro
João Nicolau d’Almeida is the son of the man who created Barca Velha (see below), and surely some of that genius flows in his veins. For years, Duas Quintas and its Reserva have been among the best Douro reds. This is a departure, another level of quality, made from the grapes of very old vines. The bright, raspberry fruit leaps out of the glass. On the Palate, it’s concentrated and beautiful, with opulence and exquisite Balance and Structure. Drink 2008-2020 £39 @ MMD

95 Quinta do Vale Meão 2001 Douro
This estate used to supply the grapes that made Barca Velha, until it was reclaimed in 1999 by the property owners, the Olazabal family, descendants of Doña Antónia Adelaide Ferreira. The estate wine is made in a vast, century-old winery, in a bigger, richer style than Barca Velha, with high, ripe tannins and opulent fruit. Drink 2008-2020 £30 @ REY

95 Quinta do Crasto D Maria Teresa Douro 2001
One of two very old vine vineyards on this beautiful estate. The Roquette family has steadily improved the quality of the wines, but these are the best yet. Aromas are rich, syrupy and subtle. The fruit is super-ripe, with huge intensity and concentration. Tannins are powerful and Alcohol high. A very impressive wine. Drink 2008-2020 £35 @ ENO

94 Barca Velha 1995 Douro
Portugal’s most famous red wine, created in circumstances very similar to those of Penfolds Grange. After a visit to Bordeaux, Fernando Nicolau d’Almeida used techniques he had seen there, and made the first Barca Velha in 1952. (The first Grange was 1951.) It is always released when the winemakers think it’s ready to drink. This has smooth, ripe, plummy aromas; grainy tannins and generous fruit. It’s big, with Length and complexity, and should develop for years. Drink 2005-2020 £44.99 @ BWC

94 Jorge Moreira Poeira 2003 Douro
Douro star Jorge Moreira spent seven years as winemaker at Real Compania Velha, then moved to Quinta de La Rosa in 2002, as well as continuing with Poeira, his own project. The name means ‘dust’, to reflect the Douro at vintage time. The grapes come from four hectares (ha), of mostly old vines. This looks quite Oaky, but the palate has intensity, density and high Tannin, with damson and liquorice on the Finish. Drink 2005-2020 £25.50 @ FWM

94 Quinta do Crasto Vinha do Ponte 2000 Douro
This is Quinta do Crasto’s other old-vine wine. It’s keeping most of its charms hidden on the nose, though it’s more forthcoming on the palate. The flavours are dark, inky and savoury, with liquorice and berry notes. Acidity is good, and it shows great intensity. The finish is oaky, but it is a wine of power and length. Drink 2007-2017 £35 @ ENO

93 Chryseia Douro 2001
The fruit of a joint project between the Symington family (of Dow’s, Warre’s and Graham’s Ports) and Bruno Prats, whose family owned Cos d’Estournel in Saint-Estèphe until 1998. Grapes (mainly Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, with some Tinta Roriz and Tinta Cão) all come from Symington estates. This has lovely pure, raspberry fruit, with intensity and elegance. Tannins are firm and stylish. Length is perfumed, and very good. Drink 2006-2016 £25 @ JEF

93 Quinta da Leda 2000 Douro
Quinta da Leda is the estate from which Sogrape now sources most of the fruit for Barca Velha. But they also release this estate wine. The blend is of the familiar Douro varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz. This is big and expressive, with rich, raspberry aromas, smooth, powerful tannins and lovely length. Drink 2007-2015 £14.99 @ BWC

93 Luis Pato Vinha Pan 2001 Vinho Regional Beiras
Luis Pato’s wines have long been the most approachable and outward-looking in Bairrada. This is 100% Baga, planted in 1980 in chalky-clay soil, and regularly one of the region’s best wines. It is aged for a year in new Allier oak. The nose is closed and dense, and acidity and tannins are high, but there’s loads of opulent fruit and intensity, length and structure. Drink 2009-2020 £19 @ L&S

93 Quinta do Carmo Reserva 2000 Alentejo
This historic estate was in serious decline before its rescue by Domaines Barons de Rothschild in 1992. Today the vineyard size has doubled to 150ha, stainless-steel vats have replaced the pink marble lagars, and Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah have joined the local varieties. This blend of Aragonês, Trincadeira and Syrah, with some Cabernet, Alicante Bouschet and Castelão, has ripe, toasty, red fruit aromas, and stylish, red fruit length. Drink 2005-2010 £40 @ DBR

92 Niepoort Vinhos Charme 2002 Douro
Dirk Niepoort has been an inspirational godfather to a generation of young peers. His search in the Douro’s high vineyards has been for elegance and balance, where many others have been happy to stick with power and concentration. He describes this wine as his ‘wannabe Burgundy’, foot-trodden in lagares with all the stems. It does have a dimension of elegance that totally eludes many other wines, with strongly toasty tones and high acidity. Drink 2008-2015 £45 @ REY

92 Adriano Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Reserva 2000 Douro
As ever, a very good wine, made mainly from Touriga Nacional and Tinta Barroca. Aromas are herby, complex and elegant, with flavours following on that confirm that impression. Tannins are firm, and acidity good. It’s big wine, but retains a lovely balance and complexity. Drink 2007-2015 £22 @ MMD

92 Quinta de la Rosa Reserva 2001 Douro
This estate is nearby the town of Pinhão, in the heart of the Douro. It is owned by the Bergqvist family, which has increased the quality of the wine and Port over the years. 2001 was the last year David Baverstock worked as consultant. This is a bit closed on the nose, but the palate promises great things. There’s lots of rich, toasty, fleshy fruit, with high tannins and alcohol. It’s lovely wine, big and powerful. Drink 2008-2016 £17.99 @ FWM

92 Alvaro Castro & Dirk Niepoort 2001 Dado
As far as I know, this is Portugal’s first super-vinho de mesa. It’s a blend of very good wines from Dão and Douro, by two top, forward-thinking winemakers. The result is lovely, perfumed, raspberry fruit aromas, with richness and freshness on the palate. Tannins are firm, acidity bright, and there’s a creamy feel to the whole. Young wine, with perfumed length. Drink 2007-2015 £24 @L&S

92 Quinta da Covela Escolha 2003 Vinho Regional Minho
This 34ha property is in the borders of the Douro and Vinho Verde regions. Touriga Nacional and Avesso (a white grape) mingled with a bewildering array of foreign imports are planted on the 19ha of vineyard. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah are other contributors to this wine. This is the unoaked red, full of fresh, cherry fruit, with the distinct herby tang of Touriga Nacional. Tannins are firm, acidity high, and this has cherry and almond length. Drink 2005-2009 £12.50 @ C&B

92 Alvaro Castro Pape 2002 Dão
Unlike Alvaro Castro’s mixed-region wine (above), this is a fully fledged Dão, made from fruit from two quintas, Passarela and Pellada, hence the name. It is mostly Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz, and the Touriga really shows through in the bright, herby aromas. There’s quite a bit of new oak on the fresh, red berry fruit, and hints of balsamic aromas, as well. Tannins are dense and ripe, and length is lovely. Drink 2005-2010 £17 @ L&S

92 Quinta dos Roques Garrafeira 2000 Dão
This is the top wine from Luís Lourenço’s estate. Garrafeira is a traditional name, and Luís was told that it would never sell, as it had a ‘bad image’. This did not deter him, and 17 barrels (nine of Touriga Nacional, three each of Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz, and one each of Jaen and Tinta Cão) were blended and bottled. It’s rich-fruited and ripe, with firm tannins, high acidity and bright, red fruit characters. Drink 2007-2015 £25 @ REY

92 DFJ Vinhos Grand’Arte Alicante Bouschet 3003 Vinho Regional d’Estremadura
José Neiva is one of the most prolific winemakers in Estremadura. Most of his wines are inexpensive gluggers, crafted to please UK supermarket customers. But his Grand’Arte range is a cut above (though still astonishing value). The Alicante Bouschet grape seems to achieve greater things in southern Portugal than anywhere else. Ripe cherry and mulberry aromas and a hint of chocolate are followed by flavours of mocha, honey and mulberry. It is soft, seductive and deliciously different. Drink 2005-2009 £7.95 @ D&F

92 DFJ Vinhos Consensus 2003 Ribatejo
This blend is from the other main region where José Neiva works, the Ribatejo. It is 45% Touriga Nacional, 35% Trincadeira and 20% Alicante Bouschet. I was very impressed with this just before last Christmas, and it has developed well. The herby Touriga Nacional shines through, with different background flavours of dark chocolate and black fruits (blackcurrant, black cherry and blackberry). The finish is savoury and complex. Drink 2005-2008 £12.99 @ D&F

92 Esporão Garrafeira 2001 Vinho Regional Alentejano
The huge 2,000ha Esporão estate is in Reguengos de Monsaraz, in the centre of the Alentejo, just 25km from the Spanish border. Many of the 600ha of vineyards were planted in the past 20 years, during the time Australian winemaker David Baverstock has been working in Portugal. This is a blend of 40% each of Alicante Bouschet and Syrah, with the rest made up of Touriga Nacional and Aragonês (aka Tinta Roriz). It’s lovely wine, with bright, raspberry fruit, dense, ripe tannins and good acidity. Australian appeal with European elegance. Drink 2005-2012 £21.99