Updated Madeira tasting notes

[Steve Shapiro]

For anyone using these notes, it is helpful to understand my tasting preferences. I most enjoy wines of great complexity, giving them preference over those wines with huge body but less finesse. For this reason, you'll find that some old Madeira Wine Company and H&H wines do best with relatively lower scores for some of the D'Oliveira wines. Keep this in mind if you like the huge, fruity style of Madeira.

Madeira tasting notes (updated 1/08)

Henriques & Henriques Grand Old Bual (c.1800). Dark. Cognac, spice, butterscotch/toffee and distinct hint of cherries. In mouth, excellent depth, perfect balance, with orange, nut, toffee, nutmeg, touch of cinnamon. Very elegant. Very long finish. 19.5 in 3/07.

Henriques & Henriques Reserva Malmsey (c.1800): Dried flowers, wood, spices. Endless finish. 20. 4/17/00

1815 Comet ("Bottled 1860"): Huge, fabulous nose of cloves and some vanilla, lingering for more than 6 hours. Nutty and some spice flavors. Clean, high acid finish, but marred by bitter component that did not blow off. Nose 20/ Taste 15. (10/08).

1822 Avery's Verdelho solera: Medium to light brown. Hard to coax any nose out of this. Toasted almonds flavors, but simple. Adequate acid, but short finish. 15 in 3/09.

1826 Blandy Bual solera: Good, rich wine. Very good complexity. Long finish. 18.

1827 Quinta do Serrado Bual: Medium dark. Orange, some peaches, alcohol, cinnamon and sweet toffee nose. Similar taste with even more intensity. Perfect balance. Very long finish. 20. $265. 5/2/99. 19.5 in 10/06. Very complex, very long, not quite as harmonious as 1860 MWA Bual. Very dark. Orange peel, B & B, toffee, hazelnut nose with hint of baking spices. Very powerful in mouth, almost overwhelming the senses. Orange, nuts, caramel, toffee with tremendous depth. Endless finish. 20 in 3/07. Mannie Berk says this came in 3 lots. The best have 1827 painted on bottle in fanciful script, indicating the 1988 bottling.

1830 Quinta do Serrado Malvasia: Medium brown. Intense malvazia nose of nuts, toffee, cognac. Intense similar flavors, but not quite harmonious. Long finish. 18. $295. 4/10/99

1830 Malvasia: Bottle similar to the Quinta do Serrado. Nose and flavors similar, with long finish, but seemed sweeter than my memory of the other wine. Lacks depth and harmony for higher score. 18. 10/08.

1832 Acciaioly Terrantez: Soft, balanced with predominant citrus and orange peel nose. Not very intense. 15.5. $350. 5/1/99

1834 Barbeito Malvasia: Dark. Medicinal, tea and cinnamon nose. Medium sweet. Spices, cloves, nuts, slight burned sugar taste. Excellent balance. Long, somewhat woody finish. 17.5. $245. 5/2/99

1834 Barbeito Terrantez: Toffee and caramel flavors. Excellent acid. Long finish. 19. 4/17/00

1835 Quinta do Serrado Boal: Old bottle, hand painted date. Nose of walnuts, hazelnuts, Xmas spices and distinct smell of lilacs. Not very sweet, but excellent depth, balance and complexity. Nuts, cloves, some ginger flavors. Moderately long, clean finish. 18.5. (1/09)

1836 Acciaioly Malmsey: Dark. Alcohol, violet nose. Complex taste, but distinctly woody. Not enough fruit to cover the acid. 15.5. $450. 5/2/99

1837 Acciaioly Bual, Special Reserve, Medium Sweet: Violets, some caramel on nose. Similar flavors with huge complexity. Long finish. 19+. $265. 1/06.

1839 Acciaioly Verdelho: Intense nose of violets, but some off odors. Deep treacle, nut and citrus taste. Long finish. 17.5. 10/99

1845 Cossart Gordon Centennary Bual solera: Nicely balanced without depth for excellent. Good with food. 17. $190. 1/02, 2/03. Different label and source. Dark with green edge. Cognac and orange peel on nose. Rich fruit, toffee and nutty flavors, although not very complex. Caramel and toffee plus good acidity carry into slightly short finish. 18. (1/09).

1846 Avery's Verdelho: Huge nose of violets, but unavoidable resin component. Drying out and alcoholic in mouth, with resin overwhelming the fruit. Short finish. 14. $350. 2/02

1850 D'Oliveira Verdelho: Very, very dark. Rich nose of coffee, nuts and tobacco. Very rich, complex flavors. Sweet for veldelho. Very high acid. 18. $395. 5/1/99; 19 on 4/17/00. 19.5 in 10/06. Very, very dark. Initially chocolate, almond skins, a little butterscotch and a little chocolate on nose. In 1-2 hours more spices and oregano emrged. Very sweet dried fruit, Italian spice flavors. Very long finish. 19.5. 10/08.

1860 Blandy (MWA) Bual: Wow. Dark brown. Huge orange, cognac, spicy nose with clear violets component. Similar mouthfilling flavors with intense violets vein plus chocolate and walnut tastes. High acid, multi-minute finish. Still young. 20. $150. 6/12/99; still 20, but now $500. 2/04. 20 in 10/06; had at same dinner as 1827 Quinta do Serrado, which was terrific and bigger, but didn't have the complexity and length to compare with this. Harmonious, no harsh edges, perfect. Last bottle, in 6/08 and 10/08. Open 5 months at Roy Hersh get together. Beyond fabulous! Hazelnut, multiple spice, cognac nose. Endless layers of flavor adding citrus touch, violets, walnuts and wiff of chocolate to the nutty, spicy flavors. Endless finish. 20.

1860 Cossart Gordon Sercial solera: Light yellow. Fruit and flower nose. Subtle taste, huge acidity. 15. 10/04. Similar note, but 17.5 in 1/07. Different score reflects scoring the wine as a sercial, rather than in the context of my favorite madeiras.

1862 H.M. Borges Terrantez: Nose pleasant, but not memorable. Good flavor intensity, but not very appealing. Medium length dry finish. What=s all the hype about? 16.5.

1862 D'Oliveira Sercial: Dark. Cognac, chocolate and cinnamon nose and flavors. Long finish with high acid. Great wine. 20. $400. 5/1/99

1863 Barbeito Bual: Medium dark. Orange peel nose. Less sweet than most Bual. Orange, grass, some nuts. High acid dominates finish. 17. $225. 5/2/99. Excellent bottle in 10/08. Walnut, clove, toffee nose and flavors. Additional spice in mouth. Very rich. Long finish. 18.5.

1863 Berry Bros & Rudd Malmsey solera: Lighter in color and body than Blandy, but exquisite sweet nose and very long finish. 19+. 10/04

1863 Blandy Malmsey solera: Medium-dark. Deep toffee, nut and cognac nose. Rich with fruit, toffee and hazelnuts. Long finish. 19. 18.5 in 10/06. Still lovely, but far outclassed by 1880 Blandy Malmsey. Dark brown, green edge. Dark Karo nose, with some red fruit and touch of cloves. Rich dark fruit flavors with distinct chocolate edge. Very long finish. 19. 2/09.

1863 Leacock Malmsey solera: Same as Blandy's. 19.

1863 Miles Malmsey solera: Extremely dark. With little airing, lemon nose and tangy lemon flavor. After few days, has little nose, but big body with relatively simple flavors, nice finish. 16.5/17. Very dark,with green edge. Intense dark Karo/molasses and prune nose. Flavors similar, with good acidity and moderately long finish. Lacks complexity for score better than 18. 2/09.

1863 Welsh Brothers Bual: Medium dark. Apricot, coffee aromas. Medium intensity dried apricot, peach flavors with a little expresso. Nice balance and flavor interest. Clean finish of moderate length. 18. 10/08.

1864 Blandy Bual: Excellent, rich wine. Probably not opened enough in advance, limiting finish. 17, but many have deserved better score. 3/96. Opened 4 months. Evolved from the above profile after 1 month to hazelnut, cognac nose with pedro ximenez nuances. Medium sweet, medium bodied with nut, orange, spice and peach concentrate flavors. Extremely long, complex finish. 19.5. Almost a match for the 1860 Blandy (MWA) Bual tasted at same time. 6/08.

1864 Gran Cama de Lobos solera (Verdelho): Tangy, smoky, cognac nose. Very good depth and acid. Medium sweet. Missing a little depth for classic. 17.

1865 Cossart Gordon Bastardo: Bitter. 14.

1867 Lodge (veldelho or bual): Sweet, but relatively simple from extended demijohn aging rather than cask aging. 15.5. $265. 2/04.

1868 Cossart Gordon EBH Bual: Medium dark, with green edge. Wonderful hazelnut, orange peel, clove, vanilla bean, B & B nose. Deep, complex nutty flavors with prominent orange component. Excellent acidity and long finish. 19 in 3/09.

1869 Badminton House Malmsey: Sensational; no flaws; big finish. 19 in 9/03.

1869 Blandy Boal: Nose of marzipan, ocean breeze, oil and herbs. In mouth excellent depth with nuts, caramel and herbs. Very long, deep finish and length. 19.5 in 1/07.

1870 Blandy Bastardo: Medium brown-gold with red tint. Typical bitter orange nose. Medium bodied, all things in medium balance. Citrusy and tropical fruit flavors. Verdelho sweetness. Clean finish. 17. $460. 6/12/99

1870 Blandy Terrantez: Medium dark with slightly yellow edge. Initial molasses nose evolving into tea and then orange peel and figs. Tea is predominany flavor, with apricots, wood and chocolate nuances. Excellent acid. Very long finish. 19 in 3/07.

c.1870 Henriques & Henriques Boal Velho: Cognac, orange and orange peel nose evolving to caramel, toffee and tea. Simial flavors plus coffee, cinnamon and more prominent orange peel. Moderately long finish. 18.5 in 1/07. (may have scored higher if not paired with 1869 Blandy Boal). Medium brown with expected green edge. Despite 3 week airing before serving, initial vegetal nose which blew off in the glass and evolved to tobacco and mixed spice aromas. Tobacco, coffee and spice flavors persisted in mouth, with touch of orange. Moderately long finish. 16 in 2/09.

1870 Vinhos Donaldson Sercial: Terrific wine. Rich nose. Great complexity. Medium sweet. Long finish. 18.5.; 19+ in 9/03.

1872 Leacock Verdelho solera: Medium dark. Good nutty nose. Medium depth and complexity. Finish slightly short. 16.

1875 Barbeito Malvasia: Dark. Nose of dried cherries, cognac, hint of orange, cinnamon. Taste of cherries, smoke, lemon. Finish long, complex, lemon tinged. 18. $225. 5/2/99. 18.5. 1/06. Medium brown with green edge. Molasses, touch cinnamon, plus cherries and prunes and clove on nose. Moderately sweet molasses, dried red fruits and citrus touch in mouth. Long finish. 18.5-19. 2/09.

1875 Blandy Sercial (Averys): Dark, reddish color. Very sweet. Probably malmsey. 15.

1875 Cossart Gordon Bastardo: Light color and yellow edge. Huge mango/ papaya nose with dill, apricot and meat marinade overtones. Flavors same as nose, plus coffee. Good complexity. Moderately long, sweet finish without Bastardo bitterness. Terrfic bastardo, but not my kind of maderia. 17.5 in 3/07.

1875 D'Oliveira Malmsey: Molasses, caramel and nuts on nose. Big fruit. Long, nutty finish. Excellent malmsey. 18 in 9/03, 19 in 1/06. $375.

1875 D'Oliveira Moscatel: Dark black. Very sweet but funky nose, probably bottle stink. Very, very sweet, but simple. Acidity almost too low. 16.5. $400. 5/2/99

1887 Borges Terrantez: Medium dark. Nose of nuts with cloves and cinnamon. Rather simple citrus peel taste; guess 1.5% sugar. Short aftertaste. 15 in 3/09.

1878 Christopher's Boal: Cloudy and too yellow. Medicinal, cooked potato nose evolves to applesauce and fatty smell with time. Flat, dull. Poor bottle, similar to mine from 2/99.

1879 Torre Bella Verdelho: Light. Nougart and hint of violets on nose. Simple wine. Low acid. 10. 5/1/99

1880 Blandy Verdelho solera: Nuts, caramel and good acid. Balanced with medium length finish. 17. 5/00. 18-. 1/03. Bottle stink blows off in 2 hours. Nose expanded for 4-5 hours, resulting in date, caramel and pasta smell. Very rich in mouth, with dried fruit and caramel predominating. High acid. Short finish. 17. 10/08.

1880 D'Oliveira Terrantez: Very dark. Intense nose and flavors, but hard to identify. 17. $425. 5/1/99. Allspice, clove and some violets in nose. Nuts, cloves, orange peel and some apricots in flavor. Clean, lingering finish. 17.5/18. Nice terrantez. 10/08.

1880 Blandy Malmsey: Orange, nut and cognac nose. Similar flavors plus dried fruits. Extremely long finish. Not huge, but exquisite. 19.5. $840. 2/04. 20 in 10/06. Slightly less good bottle in 10/08. Molasses and spices on nose. Good depth and complexity with dried fruit, molasses and spices. Long, complex finish. 19.

1882 Blandy Verdelho: Medium dark. Slightly turbid (decanting problem). Great nose of cinnamon, allspice, honey and molasses. In mouth chocolate, toffee, mild spiciness, and borderline low acidity for the wine's richness. Long finish. 18.5 in 3/07. Mannie Berk guesses it was bottled in the 1950s.

1885 Barbeito Verdelho: Light- medium dark. Low intensity orange peel and cognac nose. Orange and cinnamon flavors with toasted almonds. Fairly simple. 15.5. $195. 5/1/99; 18 in 9/03.

1885 Barbeito Malvasia (Cama do Lobos/ Alfonso family): Medium dark color. Molasses and Provencal herbs, with distinct acetone and iodine notes. Medium sweet, with good complexity and moderately long finish. 17.5 in 3/07 (far outclassed by 1895 D'Olveira Malvasia). Provencal spice, butterscotch and vanilla nose, with prominent iodine component. Molasses, toffee and honey flavors,; good depth. Long finish. 19 in 1/07.

1885 Lomelino Verdelho: Light in color, off nose. Improved with time, but still unfair to judge. I suspect it needed a few more days or weeks of airing prior to tasting. 3/07.

1886 Barbeito Malvasia (Cama do Lobos/ Alfonso family): Big nose of nuts, coffee and orange peel. Coffee flavors predominate in mouth. Relatively short finish detracts. 18 in 1/07.

1890 D'Oliveira Verdelho: Very dark. Toffee, slightly herbal, molasses nose. Medium sweet, less than 1905. Figs, herbs. Good acidity and moderately long finish. Initially 17, but after 3 hours it filled out, became richer, and finish lengthened. 18.5 in 3/07. Bottled 1980s according to Mannie Berk.

1894 Henriques & Henriques Malmsey solera: Very dark. Toasty, burned nose. Flavors of chocolate, figs and spices. Moderately long finish. 17. $125. 5/00; 16 in 2/04.

1895 D'Oliveira Malvasia: Very dark. Alcohol and nutty nose. Rich, but finish short despite good acid. 15.5. $325. 5/2/99. Very dark. Molasses, figs, slight hazelnut, dried dates and apricots and orange peel on nose. Taste of dried fruits with citrus twist and excellent acid. Very sweet. Long finish. 19 in 3/07. Molasses, lemon and orange peel nose, with some nuts and touch too much alcohol; nose developed some meaty aromas with time. Molasses and caramel flavors, but not rich. Medium length finish. 16. Either some bottle variation, or this may have suffered by following the 1860 MWA Bual. 10/08.

1897 MWA Malmsey: Medium dry; short finish. 15

1898 Barbeito Verdelho: Little nose. Nutty. Short finish. 15. 5/00. 16+. 1/03.

1898 Blandy Verdelho: Some of the varnish bottle smells. With airing these blow off and Nut and clove emerge. Medium sweet, with good acid but only moderate depth and complexity. 17. 10/08.

1898 Henriques & Henriques Bual solera: Dark, intense wine. Prunes, nuts and cinnamon. Distinct smokiness of many old H & H madeiras. Long finish. 18.5/19. 5/00, 1/05, 1/06

1899 Abudarham Terrantez: Deep orange brown. Huge caramel, toffee nose. Great depth of flavor with toffee, nuts, distinct hints of cloves and cinnamon. Long, sweet finish; perfect balancing acidity. Bual sweetness. Same wine as Cossart Gordon AAO-SM@. 19.5. $200. 6/12/99. Mannie Berk thinks this was belded with sweeter, richer wine, diluting out the bastardo character.

1900 Barbeito Malvasia: Very, very dark. But nose has paste, weeds, prunes and burned molasses. Very concentrated in mouth, but flavors don=t develop well. Dreid fruits and spices. Medium finish. 16. $265. 5/2/99

1900 Henriques & Henriques Malmsey solera: Very dark brown. Slightly burned nose with rich toffee, caramel and cognac nose. Very similar rich flavors with distinct smokiness. Long finish. 18.5. $125. 6/12/99. English bottling 16 in 4/01

1900 D'Oliveira Verdelho: Little nose. Figs in mouth. 16. 4/17/00

1900 D'Oliveira Malvasia: Figs, apricots in nose. Great caramel nose and taste plus toffee and fruit in mouth. Great, long finish. 19. 4/17/00, 4/01

1900 D'Oliveira Moscatel: Black. Roasted, Karo nose. Very sweet, but not complex. Excellent acidity. 16.5. $345. 5/2/99

1900 Leacock Moscatel: Very sweet, but dull. Good acid. 16.5. Probably same as D=Oliveira.

1901 Adegas do Torreao Malvasia: Only medium sweet. Toffee, coffee grounds nose. Violets taste. Good complexity, moderate length. High acid. Bigger wines overwhelm it. 16.5/17. $270. 4/00, 4/01

1901 Barbeito Malvasia: Sweet, caramel and rubbery nose and taste. Nice finish. 17. 4/17/00. 15 in 4/01, tasted with 1900-1901 malvasias. Nuts, toffee, cinnamon and allspice nose and flavors. Medium body. Nice finish and length. 17 in 2/07 (with 1901-1907 malvasias).

1903 Barbeito Sercial MBV: Clean. Nuts. Good acid. Long finish. 18+. $150. 1/06. Slight lemon peel and cognac nose, with pronounced butterscotch/ caramel and touch of anise. Fairly sweet, good complexity, good acid. Clean, tart finish. 18 in 3/07.

1903 D'Oliveira Bual: Cheesy nose. Great dried fruit and cognac flavors. Slightly chocolatey. Long finish. 18.5. 4/17/00; 2/04.

1905 Cossart Gordon Sercial: Good flavor, relatively sweet. Moderate finish. 16.5;17+ in 9/03. Medium dark, with green edge. Nose of nuts and nut skins with a bit of orange peel; hint of cat's urine. Nutty flavors with very high acidity. Probably 1% sugar. 18 in 3/09.

1905 D'Oliveira Verdelho: Cognac, toffee nose. Prunes, fruit, dried fruit in mouth. Slightly short finish. 17.5. 4/17/00; 18 in 2/04,1/05; 18.5 in 1/06. Very dark. Burnt toffee and walnut nose with pleasant medicinal spiciness and touch of charred meat. Big body. Chocolate, cinnamon, touch of orange in mouth. Quite sweet. Long finish. 18.5 in 3/07. Mannie Berk says it was bottled in 1970s, recorked recently.

1905 Leacock Sercial: Nice flavor and good acidic finish. Not very complex. 16.

1905 Torre Bella Verdelho: Medium dark. Alcohol nose, then followed by intense violet smell plus all-spice and vanilla on nose and taste. Long, high acid finish with cloves. 16.5. 5/1/99

1906 Madeira Wine Association Malmsey: Rich with nuts and toffee flavors. Slightly short finish. 16.5. 5/00. Clove, violet, nuts and toffee on nose. Flavors add spices and good richness. 17.5 in 2/07 (with 1901-1907 malvasias).

1907 Barros Malvasia: Moldy. 10. 5/00. Odd, funky nose with partially blows off to show toasty and light toffee components. Light molasses and toffee flavors. Short finish. 13 in 2/07 (with 1901-1907 malvasias). Identical note. Opened, decanted, and aired for 3 weeks, but this did not improve the funky, almost corky nose. 13. (1/09)

1907 Blandy Bual: Medium dark. Orange, cognac and nuts on nose. Young, intense flavors as in nose. Very long finish. 19.5. $295. 10/04

1907 D'Oliveira Malvasia: Intense molasses and nuts nose; rich dried fruit and molasses taste; long finish. 19. 1/05. Dark. Maple syrup, molasses and nuts on nose. Deep molasses and dried fruit flavors. Very long finish. 18.5 in 2/07 (with 1901-1907 malvasias). Similar nose and flavors, but seemed less complex in 10/08 (but may have suffered by comparison to 1860 MWA Boal which preceded it). 17. This note similar to first 2 above. 19. Makes 10/08 17 almost certain to be related to its juxtaposition to the fabulous 1860 MWA Boal. (1/09).

1908 Cossart Gordon Bual: Medium prunes, nuts and cinnamon. Only moderate complexity. Medium length finish. 17. 5/00

1908 D'Oliveira Bual: Orange nose. Huge, rich taste. Long finish. 18.5. 4/17/00. Same as Cossart Gordon wine described above.

1910 Barbeito Bual: Odd, earthy. Subtle spices. 16. 4/17/00; 15.5 in 2/04.

1910 Barbeito Sercial: Leechy-nut nose. Sweet. Short finish. Dull. Simple. 12. $135. 5/1/99. On 4/17/00, B&B, cognac, wood nose. Sweet, but not complex. Nice, long finish. 17. Interesting twist: 1 bottle, bottled in 1999, had nutty, butterscotch and cinnamon/clove nose; however, nuttiness and spices faded in mouth; finish was high acid, but slightly short. This bottle17. The other bottle was bottled in 2004 or 2005. It was much darker, but had slightly hot, alcoholic nose, distinct peanut smell, and touch of orange peel; rich, nutty flavors, not too sweet. Excellent, clean finish. This bottle 16 because of peanut nose. (Both 10/08).

1910 D'Oliveira Sercial: Dark, but unremarkable. 15.

1911 Blandy Bual: Earthy with nose and flavors of nuts, cloves and chocolate. Nice finish. 17.5/18. 5/00

1912 D'Oliveira Verdelho: Terrific fruit nose. Very long fruity flavors with lengthy finish. 19.5. 10/04. Identical note plus cloves on nose, chocolate and molasses in mouth. 19.5 in 1/07. Another set of nearly identical noses, great complexity, spice and clove on nose and in flavors, and long finish. 19.5. (1/09)

1914 Barbeito Quinta da Piedade Malvasia: Not very sweet, but lovely wine with everything in balance. Long finish. 18. 2001

1915 LMR Bual: Medium dark. Off, ether nose and intense nuts, cinnamon and violets. Taste pleasant but not interesting. Long, clove finish. 16. 5/2/99

1916 Cossart Gordon Malmsey: Good, rich wine. Moderate depth and finish. 17. May have needed more airing.

1917 Barbeito Sercial: Wonderful cinnamon and anise nose. Candied pecans in mouth, with expected high acidity. Marked down for very short finish. 16 in 3/07.

1917 Blandy Verdehlo: Very dark. Huge, young, cinnamon nose. Deep similar flavors. Misses being perfect by slightly low acidity. 19. $270. 1/03, 1/06.

1920 Blandy Bual: Medium sweet. Fine depth and complexity. Long, lingering finish. 18.

1920 Cossart Gordon Bual: Apparently same as Blandy, but shorter and less rich. Assume storage difference. 16. 4/5/02.

1920 Cossart Gordon Malmsey: Dark. Rich flavor, but not overwhelming. Slightly short. 18. 11/99


1920 Favilla Vieira Bual: Cinnamon and caramel nose. Lovely, medium, balanced wine. Slightly short finish. 16. 4/17/00, 4/5/02

1920 Favilla Vieira Malvasia: Very dark. Nuts and dried fruits on nose and intensely in flavor. Great, rich wine. Excellent acid. Very long finish. 19/19.5. $195. 10/04

1920 Rutherford & Miles Bual: Same as Blandy. 18. 4/5/02

1922 D'Oliveira Bual: Very dark. Nose of oranges/ Sunkist orange soda. Rich, pruney taste. Very long finish. Just a little simple for great. 18.5 $160. 10/04. Very similar notes and 18.5 in 3/07.

1924 Blandy Malmsey Solera: 4 bottles, 3 undrinkable and 1 marginal.

1924 D'Oliveira Sercial: Nuts, cinnamon, molasses with coffee-tinged nose. Sweet. Peanut toffee in mouth. Excellent finish, but distinctly peanut taste. 18. 4/17/00

1927 Adegas do Torreao Bastardo: Not typical Bastardo, and all the better for it. Sercial sweetness, but fuller. Mango, prune, molasses, slight alcohol, cinnamon and cloves on nose. Dry. Good fruit. Short finish. Missing the usual ugly, bitter Bastardo finish. 17. $250. 1/02, 1/05. Retasted 3/07, the day after the D'Oliveira 1927 Bastardo. Confirms my impression that the wines are very similar, but this one lacks the bitter finish.

1927 Leacock Bastardo: Dark. Touch of acetone, which blows off. Slight coffee grounds. Strawberry more than tropical fruit nose. Molasses and tropical fruit flavors. Moderately long finish with mango, toffee and molasses. 18.5 in 3/07. Mannie Bark believes that this was blended with a sweeter, richer wine, diluting out the bastardo character and bitter finish.

1927 D'Oliveira Bastardo. Light color. Banana and coconut nose, sweet and fruity. Touch of cloves. Tropical fruit with nutmeg and cloves in mouth. Short finish, becoming progressively bitter with time. 16 becoming 14 becoming 12 in 3/07. This is same wine as Adegas do Torreao above, but bought and bottled later by D'Oliveira. Similar to the AdT, but with prominent bitter finish.

1929 Barbeito Verdelho: Very dark. Hazelnut, alcohol, nuts, orange/ lemon nose and flavors. Long, acidic finish. Rich. 18.5. $125. 10/04. Similar note in 1/07, plus nice cinnamon touch. 18.5.

1933 Broadbent Malvasia: Very dark. Little nose. Sweet. Stewed prunes. Short finish with low acid. 15. $180. Justino Henriques same wine. 5/2/99

1934 Henriques & Henriques Verdelho: Good depth in nose. Medium richness. Slightly short finish. 16. 11/93

1935 Borges Bual:

1937 D'Oliveira Sercial: Chocolate and cognac overtones. Odd, stinky nose. Very high acid, short finish. 16. $110. Will be better if nose stink blows off. 5/1/99

1939 Barbeito Verdelho: Cinnamon, fig, apricot nose. Narrow flavors; nuts with cognac edge. Short finish. 16-. 1/03

1940 Blandy Sercial: Dark brown with red tinge. Nutty nose with touch of caramel; alcohol shopws thru a bit. Sweet walnut flavor with lemon overtones. Clean, high acid finish. Moderate aftertaste. 17.5. (1/09). Comparing notes, must be same as Leacock wine below.

1940 H.M. Borges AB@ Reserve solera (Verdelho): Pale gold to slightly brown. Smokey and sweet hazelnut nose. Nut and honey flavors with enough acid for perfect balance. 17. $70. 6/12/99

1940 Broadbent Sercial: Hazelnut nose and flavor. Medium finish. Good acid. Farily light color. Excellent balance. Lighter style. 14. $200. 5/1/99

1940 Leacock Sercial: Dark, slightly red color. Caramel nose with aggressive nuttiness. Taste with flash of nutty sweetness followed by lemon, acid finish. Lovely Sercial. 17.5. $200. 6/12/99

1950 Barros Moscatel: Dark. Floral, pear nose. Sweet, muscat taste. Excellent acid. Nice finish. 18. $135. 5/2/99, 1/03

1952 Cossart Gordon Bual (1977 Royal Silver Jubilee): Good, rich wine with full finish. 17.

1954 Barbeito Malvasia: Unremarkable. 15.

1954 Blandy Bual:

1954 Leacock Terrantez: Intense orange, cantlope/ honeydew nose. Sweet, burned sugar taste. Very high acid. 15. $125. 5/1/99

1955 Barbeito Moscatel: Medium brown. Nutty and slight muscat nose. Medium sweet. No depth or complexity. Short finish. Marginal acidity. 14.5. $110. 6/12/99

1957 D'Oliveira Old Wine (Tinta Negra Mole): Medium brown. Medium bodied, sweet, mostly caramel flavor without great depth. Clean finish. Enough acidity. 16. $80. 6/12/99

1962 Blandy Sercial (bottled 2002): Slightly nutty nose, plus lemon, orange peel and nutmeg. Slightly cloudy. Nutty flavors. Good, clean, high acid finish. 16 (open only 1 day, so could deserve higher score with proper airing. (12/08).

1964 Blandy Bual (bottled 2004): Rich nose full of orange, nuts, Benedictine and Brandy, cinnamon, small amount of fresh coconut. Hazelnut.s and assorted spice flavors. Excellent, long, high acid finish. 18. (12/08)

1964 Blandy Malmsey: Reddish brown. Big dried fruit nose. Very sweet, moderate complexity. Nice finish with enough acid. 16.5.

1968 D'Oliveira Bual: Big wine, but quite closed. Perhaps 16.

1971 Blandy Bual. Rich toffee and coffee nose. Moderate depth. 17-.

1971 Miles Malmsey: Good, sweet wine with good acidity. Medium length finish. 15.5

1976 Blandy Terrantez (bottled 1997): Nose of peaches, plums and nutmeg overtones. Apricot, peach and nutmeg flavors. Good acidity. Moderately long finish. 17+. (12/08)

1977 Blandy Verdelho (bottled 2004): Clove and cinnamon nose. Flavors of mixed nuts, spices. Excellent, high acidity. Good, clean finish. 17-. (12/08)

1978 Barbeito Sercial: Light caramel and toffee nose and flavor; good acid. 16. 1/05, 2/06, 1/07.

Blandy Reserve Malmsey.

Blandy 5 Year Sercial: Slightly cooked nose. A little peeled almonds on nose, and slightly nutty taste. Fair finish. Dry, but not bone dry. 13. (12/08)

Blandy 5 Year Verdelho: Nose of hazelnuts and walnuts, plus a touch of orange peel. Orange nuances in mouth, some dired fruit flavors, but bitter, short finish. Guess 1.5% sugar. 12. (12/08)

Blandy 5 Year Bual: Nose with cloves and walnuts. Walnut and pecan flavors. Guess 2.5-3% sugar. Simple, but has nice, clean finish. 14.5. (12/08)

Blandy 5 Year Malmsey: Yellow, not green edge. Some caramel, dark Karo/ molasses and touch of cloves on nose. Cloying, low acid, simple and non-descript flavors. 13. (12/08)

Blandy 10 Year Malmsey: Off nose overwhelms the molasses aromas. Molasses in mouth, with just enough acid. 14. (12/08).

Broadbent Terrantez Old Reserve: Dull. 13.

Christopher's Rare Old Verdelho: Pleasant. 14.

Cossart No. 26.

Cossart Gordon Malmsey 15 Years.

Henriques & Henriques Inauguration Wine: Extremely dark. Overwhelming nose of dried fruits, cherries and apricots especially. The huge dried fruit flavors carry over into the taste. Long, rich finish. Quite sweet, indeed sweeter than the 1835 Quinta do Serrado Bual and as sweet as 1845 Cossart Gordon Solera Bual that followed. Not sure if verdelho or bual. Tasted with 1912 D'Oliveira Verdelho, this lacked the finesse and complexity but was terrific nonetheless. (1/09). $195.

Leacock Sercial 10 Years.

Leacock Verdelho 10 Years.

Rare Wine Company Boston Bual. Toffe, nuts and some complexity. 16.

Rare Wine Company New York Malmsey. Hazelnuts, toffee, perfect acidity, moderate length. 17+.

Rare Wine Company Charleston Sercial. Alcoholic nose. Simple, dull and short. 14.

Rare Wine Company New Orleans Terrantez: Cognac and orange peel nose, with touch of chocolate. Flavors rich but unfocused. Finish improved over 3-4 hours, including some coffee aromas. 16.5. Apparently there are much better bottles of this wine.

[Roy Hersh]

There's nothing like a great update from Steve and his thrilling read on some stunning Madeira bottles. I recognize a few dozen of those from some good times we've shared the past couple of years. It is probably a good thing for both of our livers, that we live 3000 miles apart.


Steve for dropping by to "update us" in what is now the grand prize winner for longest single post on this entire Forum!


Please email Steve, as he has promised to overnight sponges to anyone who needs to clean the drool off of their keyboards.

[Eric Ifune]

Very nice notes!

1827 Quinta do Serrado Bual: Medium dark. Orange, some peaches, alcohol, cinnamon and sweet toffee nose. Similar taste with even more intensity. Perfect balance. Very long finish. 20. $265. 5/2/99. 19.5 in 10/06. Very complex, very long, not quite as harmonious as 1860 MWA Bual. Very dark. Orange peel, B & B, toffee, hazelnut nose with hint of baking spices. Very powerful in mouth, almost overwhelming the senses. Orange, nuts, caramel, toffee with tremendous depth. Endless finish. 20 in 3/07. Mannie Berk says this came in 3 lots. The best have 1827 painted on bottle in fanciful script, indicating the 1988 bottling.

Did Christies bottle all these?
Thanks!

[Steve Shapiro]

Eric,

I don't know the answer. I'm certain that Mannie Berk would know. Try e-mailing him thru the Rare Wine Company. Steve

[Reidar Andersen]

I have someplace info from Barbeito about they bottling and/or recorking them.. Will come back if I find it. I loved these notes
Christies, as far as I know, just put paper labels over the fancy stencilling.

[Gary Banker]

Great notes. Your comments in an earlier version on the 1920 Favilla Viera malvazia convinced me to buy several bottles. It's the best madeira I have had to date. Thanks.

[Roy Hersh]

1920 Favilla Viera Malvazia

I am going to have to try that one again.

[Peter Reutter]

Dear Steve,
I very much enjoyed reading your tasting notes, thanks for sharing them
Peter

[Andy Velebil]

Steve,
A great set of TN's for sure

I've sent you a Private Message, can you please check it, thanks.

[Eric Ifune]

I have someplace info from Barbeito about they bottling and/or recorking them.. Will come back if I find it. I loved these notes
Christies, as far as I know, just put paper labels over the fancy stencilling.

Reidar, I hope you have some more information.
The bottles I've seen have a hand painted Bual 1827 stencil and a paper label by Christies stating that it was bottled from demijohns in 1988.

[Reidar Andersen]

Will do my best.. Maybe Mannie has the best info ? I think RWC got the rest which were not sold at Christies ?

I have both types of botlles of 1827 and 1830, just stencilled and the Christies papers.

Have you tried to "look through" the paper labels ?

Reidar