Barbeito tasting notes

[Philip Harvey]

Roy, this is my first post on the forum so be gentle with me.

Following on from Alex's excellent and comprehensive tasting notes from the London Madeira tasting on October 25th, I include my own tasting notes of recent Barbeito purchases.

While I would not call myself an experienced Maderia drinker, I found these wines a revelation. Without exception they are focused and pinpoint accurate with bags of personality and superb definition. I agree with Alex that they may not be to everyone's taste, especially those that prefer a more traditional style. However, having tasted I think all of the Barbeito wines currently available in the UK, I would make the following obsevations:

- They all have a very similar colour, especially the Malmsey which as Alex says will probably surprise some people;

-They all have excellent grip;

- All display the same core of citrus/apple acidity to a greater or lesser degree.

Prices are not cheap, but then I understand that all these wines are cantiero and no caramel is added in the process - I guess you don't get something for nothing. Anyway, I loved them all as I found the grippyness and that core of lemony acidity to my own personal taste. A case in point is the 10yr old sercial which is lovely - slightly bitter, slightly burnt with a delicious lemony tang offsetting the caramel flavours which in my opinion makes something like the Henriques & Henriques 10yr old Sercial seem a bit dull and 'flabby' by comparison.

Wine of the portfolio? The Verdelho frasquiera 1981 by a country mile.

Anyway, its all a matter of personal taste but from the Maderia producers' point of view, surely this has to be the way to shake off Madeira's fusty image (certainly in this country) of a wine only enjoyed by your elderly maiden aunt at Christmas.

Personally, I hope this image remains - all the more for us to enjoy!

Barbeito's UK importer are Raymond Reynolds who have a good website with plenty of background information. Personally, I have found Glenn Mitton at 'The Wine Press' up in Carlisle very helpfu; and happy to make up and send mixed cases. A couple of websites (wine-journal.com and wineanorak.com) have also written recent reviews.

By the way, I have no connection with any of the above apart from being a happy customer.

Thanks Roy!


Barbeito – Boal Veramar (5yr old)

16.01.06
Rich medium gold/mahogany. Nutty barley sugar bouquet. Medium sweet but with a strong core of fresh tangy acidity. Perhaps a bit light in the middle but very easy to drink. On its own or perhaps with strong hard cheese or nuts. Excellent value. Very good.


Barbeito – Boal cask 81a 1995
(888 ½ litre bottles made)

18.01.06
Mid amber/gold and slightly paler than the Veramar. Light floral/golden syrup bouquet. Only just medium sweet with intriguing flavours of barley sugar, dried lemon peel and a long lingering aftertaste, reminiscent of honey and lemon Lockets. This is more light and refined and not as sweet as the 5yr old Boal. If the Veramar (above) is the affable party host, this is the shy attractive willowy girl in the small black dress– perhaps not as approachable initially, but far more interesting as the evening wears on. Excellent.

Barbeito – Single harvest 1995 – Tinta Negra Mole
(4,284 bottles made)

25.01.06
Mid amber. Smells like the sponge at the bottom of a sherry trifle. Rich smooth flavours of caramel and Coopers thick cut marmalade. Mid sweet entry and middle
with the typical Barbeito core of firm acidity. Grippy dry finish with a lingering raisiny aftertaste. Good value and alarmingly easy to drink. Very good.


Barbeito – Sercial 10yr Old

30.01.06
Deep rich amber mahogany. Sweet amontillado and toffee apple bouquet. Smooth round nutty flavours and a lovely tangy core of citrus and grapefruit. Very grippy with a nutty, slightly burnt finish. This is the drink I’d like as soon as I walk in the door in the evening. My kind of wine. My only reservation is that this is a little expensive when compared to an aged amontillado or palo cortado but a small gripe. Excellent.


Barbeito – Malvasia 20yr Old
(2400 bottles produced in 1981)

02.02.06
Georgeous mahogany gold. Sparklingly bright and clear in the glass with lovely long legs. Fabulous warm rich smell of Christmas cake and old cricket balls. Obviously extended age here with smooth round mellow flavours of caramel, coffee, walnuts and a hint of burnt toffee. Once again, that core of appley acidity underpinning the structure. Excellent.

Barbeito – 1980 Verdelho
(760 bottles in 2001)

08.02.06
Mid dark mahogany gold. Bitter sweet aromas of fresh figs and chopped walnuts but a slightly vegetal pong spoiling the picture. Very fat mouth feel - round and powerful but with real grip, lift and interest. Lovely smooth flavours of crème brulee, coffee and those sticky dates you get at Christmas. Long bitter chocolate finish. Slightly too sweet for an aperitif, this would be delicious after dinner with fresh parmesan. Very good.


Barbeito – 1981 Verdelho
(900 bottles in 2005)

27.02.06
Sparklingly bright tawny/amber. Warm bouquet of toffee apple, raisins and a hint of acetone reminiscent of Evostik wood glue. Bright uplifting flavours of caramel, coffee and fresh lemon juice and only just medium dry. Very fresh and clean, it’s hard to believe that this wine has been in a cask for 20yrs. Tangy, alive and with masses of grip and bite, this is completely different from the 1980 Verdelho which seems a little dull by comparison. One for the grandchildren. Outstanding.


Barbeito – 1978 Sercial
(1421 bottles in 2001)

30.01.06
Smokey slightly opaque tawny amber. Slightly hollow nose, like a recently emptied box of chocolates. Smooth round and mellow flavours of dried figs and caramel. Medium dry but has lost most of the tartness and acidity of youth. This seems more suitable to food than an aperitif. Delicious with fresh tomato and parmesan. Good.

[Gary Banker]

I recently picked up two bottles of 1994 Malvasia Colheita 18a. When opened on Saturday, it had good fragrance, pleasant flavor, and a short finish. After four days at 62 F, the flavor has opened up and the finish is longer. Bottled in 2004. 1,540 bottles (500ml). I would like to find this in the US; I would buy more.

Gary

[Roy Hersh]

Philip,

What a fantastic report. As it has been awhile since my last bottle of Madeira, reading your notes has me seriously jonesing!

Thanks for the excellent and descriptive TNs. Well done!