I waved furiously at the monitor, but didn't get a response, just a warm glow of satisfaction: not only had I heard of Quinta da Pacheca, but I'd also been there and even got in the lagar and trod the grapes.
In late September 2002, a group of us arrived at the Quinta da Pacheca oppposite Regua, mid-morning for the customary tour and tasting.
The quinta, which has belonged to the Serpa Pimentel family since 1903, has some 36 hectares of vineyards: in the older vineyards the vines have an average age of 50 years, and in newer plantings of 20 years.
The main varieties grown are the red varieties: Tinto Cão, Tinta Amarela, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz; and the whites: Malvasia Fina, Esgana Cão, Verdelho, Rabo de ovelha, Cerceal, Viosinho e Códega. Alongside those Portuguese varieties, the quinta also has a few vines of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. No, I don't know why! I'm sure there's a defective gene in all winemakers that makes them grow daft things - though, as a Riesling nut, I couldn't resist buying a bottle of Quinta da Pacheca Riesling! (I've still not opened that ...)
Unlike many other quintas, most of Pacheca's vines are on relatively level ground, allowing a high degree of mechanisation in the vineyard. The mechanisation doesn't continue in the winery, where all eight lagares, which were built in 1916, stand ready for use at harvest time. Total production is around 190 pipes. Only recently have they started bottling port under their own label.
After the tour came lunch: we were led into a room just off the courtyard with a large dining table in the centre, groaning with delicious and dangerously moreish goodies - hams, cheese (gorgeous à point Serra da Estrela), bacalhau fritters, sausages etc (and numerous bottles of Quinta da Pacheca Sauvignon Blanc). Tables outside in the courtyard. Fabulous. Eat a bit, swig a bit. Stumble indoors for more from the groaning table. More wine. Hmmm ... shame to let that cheese and those bacalhau fritters go to waste ... ah, well, might as well have another glass ...
Here's a TN on the Sauvignon Blanc:
- Quinta da Pachega Sauvignon Blanc 2000
Little nose. Light, fresh. Unexceptional. Nice and pleasant here, but I can quite imagine that buying a botle and trying it back home would make you wonder why on earth you'd bought it.
But as we were tucking into all this gorgeous food, we were told not to eat too much 
, as there was the proper lunch to come yet: this was just an appetiser! There then followed a lovely sit down lunch on the terrace overlooking the Douro, with wines and ports from the Quinta. Unfortunately, I've lost my notes on these, though I bought a bottle of the basic Tawny port (no age designation), which I think may well have been the only port they had for sale and which I opened in October 2003:
- NV Tawny Port, E. Serpa Pimentel - Quinta da Pacheca
A light, slightly tawny pale ruby. Prunes, leather and chocolate on the nose with some alcohol. Extremely smooth and round. Good soft fruit - quite concentrated. Quite nutty on the palate too. Very Good Indeed.
When I was there they only had table wines and some tawnies for sale - the 2000 port wasn't yet available - I wish I'd bought a few more of what they did have available.
Some pictures (more here) :
(the view from the Quinta down the Douro)
(an unsuspecting lagar full of grapes)
(the same lagar five minutes later ...)
By the way, it doesn't stain the skin - at least not for the relatively short time we were "in".
