TN: 2007 Companhia das Quintas (Quinta da Romeira) Bucelas Morgado de Sta. Catherina Reserva

[Otto Nieminen]

Companhia das Quintas (Quinta da Romeira) Bucelas Morgado de Sta. Catherina Reserva 2007

17,77€; Companhia das Quintas consists of seven properties around Portugal; the one from Bucelas is called Quinta da Romeira. 13,5% abv; 100% Arinto; 9 months in new French oak.

In the 1970s there was only one producer making wine in Bucelas. But it hasn't always been in such a sorry state. Shakespeare mentions it in Henry VI but uses the name Charneco (from the village of Charneca close to where the wines are grown); Wellington made it popular in England (as he did with Carcavelos), where it became known as Portuguese Hock because of its similarities to Riesling (though neither Arinto nor Esgana Cão is related). Though it doesn't seem to be a household name today, it's prospects are brighter as apparently the area under vine has increased and investments are being put in.

I was very excited to taste this wine. But unfortunately I was sorely disappointed. Despite some lovely citric aromas and pleasantly high acidity (both Arinto and the other grape grown, Esgana Cão, are known for their ability to retain high acidity in a hot climate) the overwhelming impression is of unpleasant, saw-dust oak. Toffee on the finish. Other than the good acidity, this seems like a stereotype of Californian Chardonnay. I really hope that this particular wine is just a freak - it would be a shame if revitalizing the region means making wine in a style that can be and is made everywhere.

[Moses Botbol]

Was this a sparkling wine? I have had Bucelas that was (I think from the same quinta) sparkling and quite enjoyable. I wish I could find more.

[Otto Nieminen]

Hi Moses, no, this was a still white. I think the late harvest and sparklers that one sometimes sees from Bucelas are recent innovations (anyone know for sure?). Certainly the historically famous Bucelas was a still white.