New madeira drinker looking for a recommendation

[Andy Dremeaux]

I'm a long time craft beer drinker whose quickly becoming obsessed with madeira. I've been a big fan of heavily aged beers for a while (10+ years, with bottles going back 20, 30, or even a couple around 100 years old), going far beyond the community in many regards, but I've realized recently that the flavor I so desperately seek in a quality vintage beer (which I've recently learned is called sotolon, I think?) is readily present and much more realistically attainable in madeira, where it seems the damn thing is designed around showcasing the compound. In beer, it's a crapshoot at best, although man when it is on, it is on.

Anyway, I've got a little bit of experience so far. A tasting of the 1968 D'Oliveras Bual is what opened my eyes, and looking around here it seems that is the unilateral recommendation for new drinkers, especially in terms of value. I've also got a bottle of the New York Malmsey, which is nice, though it doesn't have the heavily aged characteristics I'm looking for.

So my question to you is, I'm looking to spend $200-300 on a nice bottle, and was looking for a recommendation; mail order from RWC is fine. I'd prefer something on the sweeter side, no doubt. I could, of course, be convinced to just get the '68, if people think that it's a better choice than more expensive wines, though I was hoping to get something older, and I like trying new things.

Another question is about storage: is it ok to keep an open bottle sitting around? I've had the NY Malmsey for a few months, and it seemed quite wonderful after a few days open, but at this point it seems to have lost some of its luster, gotten dusty and flabby and flat. Am I crazy? I was under the impression that these things could sit forever. I'm not sure I'd want to spend $250 on a bottle if I had to drink it all within a couple weeks; I was hoping for something I could nurse for years, or at least 4-6 months.

Lastly, any kind of madeira or desert wine group in NYC? I obviously can't offer much in the way of madeira right now, but I'd be happy to share some tasty beers from the 80s

[Steve Pollack]

Hi Andy,

The 1968 D'Oliveras Bual is certainly a great Madeira, especially when taking into account its price and relatively young age. RWC is definitely the best source for older vintage Madeira, but in looking at their inventory, I am hard pressed to find one in your price range that would be a big step up from the 1968. Perhaps Roy has a different opinion? Most of the selections in the $200 - $300 price range are from the middle of the 20th century, or if they are older, they are generally of lesser quality. I think you would really enjoy a Bual or Malvasia from the early 1900's, but those are more than you want to spend. The two closest to your price range that I can recommend are the 1908 D'Oliveira Bual and the 1912 D'Oliveira Verdelho. Both are excellent, though the Verdelho may lack your desired level of sweetness. Both of these would be fine for several months after opening. Another idea is to try some by the glass at a local restaurant. There are probably many others in NYC, but first on my list would be the River Cafe in Brooklyn. I have not been there, but I believe that they have a nice selection of older Madiera available by the glass.

Best,

Steve

[Eric Ifune]

Steve is right, the 68 D'Oliveria Bual is a star considering it's price and age. The Rare Wine Company Historic series are very good, but will only give you a glimse of the real old vintage wines. I like the Boston Bual slightly more than the New York Malmsey so you might give that a try. I think they might also still have some of the Imperial Malmsey which is a step up in quality, but also two steps up in price. You might try some of the other vintage and colheita Buals and Malvazias from their list. The Barbieto Reserve Terrantez is also worth a try. It's sweeter than most Terrantezes, almost Bual-like. Other non-vintage wines to try include are the Broadbent 10 year old Malmsey. I heard Borges is now imported. I love their 15 year old Malmsey.

[Moses Botbol]

I love aged beers too, but have never had old ones like you have. That is amazing!

Eric has some good points that I share a similar opinion on. I would not shy away from getting the Broadbent 10 year. This will give you a lot of enjoyment and each glass does not have to be an event. The Terrantez is ultimate style of Madeira and really shows off as being sweet and dry with a long finish all at the same time.

You may want to consider some wine auctions or just keep poking around liquor stores for their Madiera stocks. You'll be suprised what some stores have laying around.

Blandy's has a new blend of Madeira that comes in a 500 ML bottle similar to Warre's Otima. I foget the name, but one to seek out or the less expensive side.

[Timothy B.]

Are you thinking of the Alvada - 50/50 Bual and Malmsey?

That was the first Madeira I tried, and it got me hooked. The first couple times I had it were also good times with friends, so that may have affected things.

[Moses Botbol]

Are you thinking of the Alvada - 50/50 Bual and Malmsey?

That was the first Madeira I tried, and it got me hooked. The first couple times I had it were also good times with friends, so that may have affected things.

Yes, that is it. For sure go for the Broadbent 10 then!

[Gary Banker]

If you're looking to spend $200-$300 on a nice bottle and you prefer something on the sweeter side, RWC has some good choices. I would strongly recommend Barbeito's 1920 Malvasia Favilla Viera for $275. I've had the version that was bottled in 1998 and it is my favorite sweet madeira. The current offering was bottled last year and benefits from eleven more years aging in wood.

[Roy Hersh]

Oh no, not another Andy!?!?!? All joking aside, welcome to and glad to have another budding Madeira maniac on board. Can't get enough of the stuff. Do you like Port too ... or just Madeira (for now)?

For QPR, you can't beat the Broadbent 10 year old Malmsey.

Given the price range of 200-300 USD, and the sweetness level, my suggestion would be: 2 bottles of 1968 D'Oliveiras Bual.

[Andy Velebil]

Oh no, not another Andy!?!?!? All joking aside, welcome to

Andy
to the forum...I'm the other Andy he's talking about, so if you happen to know more Andy's tell them to sign up too

Just wanted to welcome you to the forum and please feel free to ask any questions, this group loves to help others spend their money on our favorite beverages

[Timothy B.]

Yes, that is it. For sure go for the Broadbent 10 then!

Oh, I've tried that, too. I was in a self-debate on whether or not to advise the new Andy against buying any of it, so there would be more for me...

[Steve Pollack]

I too am a huge fan of the Broadbent 10 year Malmsey. I think that it is impossible to beat in the $40 price range, and is definitely worth seeking out. But it does not meet Andy's criteria in terms of more aged characteristics than the 1968 Boal that he has already tried.

[Moses Botbol]

I too am a huge fan of the Broadbent 10 year Malmsey. I think that it is impossible to beat in the $40 price range, and is definitely worth seeking out. But it does not meet Andy's criteria in terms of more aged characteristics than the 1968 Boal that he has already tried.

What about $260 a case?

[Timothy B.]

Moses - where can I get the Broadbent for $21.66 / bottle? Inquiring minds need to know!

Oh this is rich - there are two bottles of the 1968 D'Oliveira Boal on winebid, with a starting bid of $220 per bottle. (And the high estimate for the wine is $215.) Are these people insane? The winebid premium would put that up to $253 before tax and shipping which is close to twice what you could simply buy it for from the Rare Wine Co.

[Moses Botbol]

Moses - where can I get the Broadbent for $21.66 / bottle? Inquiring minds need to know!

That is typical wholesale pricing on the East Coast. I have friends in the liquor business that I got into Broadbent 10 and we order it together. Just about everyone I serve it to adores it. Most of them have never had Madeira ever. I have a long list of friends that want split cases when I can get it cheap.

I have seen similarly low prices online. Check the web, you'll be suprised how cheap you can find it on a simple search.

[Roy Hersh]

I am going to re-up with yet another case of this for winter sipping. I have gone through a case pretty much every year of this past half decade. I am really missing Madeira right about now.

[Andy Dremeaux]

Hi guys, thanks for all the great info. I ended up going with the 68 Bual and the Broadbent 10, which I've been enjoying for a week or so. It's quite nice, though I think I'm liking the New York Malmsey more; the Broadbent has an almost tomato-y note that sits a little weird with me, a bit ashy, and the alcohol burn is quite pronounced.

I've got a question about aerating/decanting the 68. I've seen here that people recommend a day of decanting for every decade old a madeira is. I want to enjoy the Bual for some time, so I don't want to pour into a decanter. Can I just leave the bottle open? Would that be better than opening it, swishing around a little bit and then closing it? I was thinking I may just leave it open for a few days with a bit of cheese cloth rubber-banded to the top (so no little critters get in), but I want to make sure that isn't some kind of mistake before I go for it.

Also, anyone have any thoughts on the Broadbent 96 Colheita? It's available near me for the same price as the 10 year, I'm curious if people think it is worth it.

[Andy Dremeaux]

Also, anyone have any thoughts on the Broadbent 96 Colheita? It's available near me for the same price as the 10 year, I'm curious if people think it is worth it.

Dur, I just saw there was a thread about this one right below mine. Nevermind on that!

[Eric Ifune]

For Madeiras that I don't plan on drinking all in one go, I get one of those tee type stoppers. D'Oliveira will sometimes supply one if your bottle in in a box; if not, I have a supply of them from prior bottles. I'll pour a glass, then restopper. I wouldn't keep the bottle completely open, as I find they lose aroma after awhile. I've kept bottles this way for months in good condition. I know Manny Burk of the Rare Wine Company has bottles kept this way for years.

[Steve Pollack]

I've got a question about aerating/decanting the 68. I've seen here that people recommend a day of decanting for every decade old a madeira is. I want to enjoy the Bual for some time, so I don't want to pour into a decanter. Can I just leave the bottle open? Would that be better than opening it, swishing around a little bit and then closing it? I was thinking I may just leave it open for a few days with a bit of cheese cloth rubber-banded to the top (so no little critters get in), but I want to make sure that isn't some kind of mistake before I go for it.

The recommendation regarding decanting relates to the number of years in bottle, which is vastly different than the vintage date. The 1968 vintage was probably bottled very recently, and will not require 4-5 days of decanting. There may be a back label that shows the bottling date. I bet it's been bottled in the last 3 years. If you eventually buy much older Madeiras than the time in bottle can be much longer, but even those may be from a recent bottling. I usually find that the 68 Bual tends to improve for 2-3 days after opening, so your cheesecloth idea may help. I typically just open it in the morning and start enjoying it that night.

[Joe Dachille]

Andy D.
I see that you got the '68 D'Olivera bual. I started with a 1957 Barbeito bual which was average to good for vintage. I thought after that, however, that I wanted to reach for the top of the spectrum. After scrounging up a copy of Alex Liddell's Madeira, I decided I would try the 1922 D'Olivera bual, which he rated 5 *'s and "a reference wine". At $350, it is not much above your high end.

Joe D'Achille
Orlando FL