Crusted port find...now when do I drink it?

Janet Ainsworth · Post by **Janet Ainsworth** » Sat Aug 20, 2005 10:23 am

Late last fall I was browsing in the wine store at the Chateau Ste Michelle winery (taking out of town guests on a winery tour) and noticed some extremely cheap "port" by Whidbey's, a local Washington outfit best known for a loganberry liqueur. And I know that they have made a faux "port" as well, which I have never tried. And probably never will.

On second glance, though, I saw the paper tax label over the cork that would indicate Portuguese origin and sure enough, it was actually made by Martinez in Portugal and was being sold under the Whidbey name under some kind of partnership. The back label said it was a combination of '94, '95, and '96 ports. I asked the guy inthe shop about it, and he said the partnership has ended and it was being sold off cheaply. Originally they were selling it at 30 something a bottle, and now it was $11 for a 750 ml bottle. And he said he intended to stock up himself at that price. So, I bought a bottle on spec, started driving away, and thought, what the heck I'll get more just in case. At this price point, at least I'll have something I can cook with when I need a port reduction. So I went back and bought a case. Good thing, too, because when I went back to get more the following weekend, it was gone.

Opened a bottle--pretty spirity, but surprisingly good. More fruit and alcohol than I am used to in a vintage port, but reasonably comparable to a really good unfiltered LBV. Incidentally, the cork inside was labelled Martinez Crusted Port--a style I am completely unfamiliar with.

So, does anyone know whether this kind of arrangement is a one-off? And, more to the point, how long can or should such a port be stored?
Like I said, I know nothing of crusted ports in general and this one in particular.

Frederick Blais · Post by **Frederick Blais** » Sat Aug 20, 2005 3:23 pm

Crusted port is a high quality ruby port bottled without filtration, the name crusted comes from that. I have tasted only 2 sor far, Dow and Graham. Dow was really good but Graham not.

Crusted Port is supposed to age pretty well, forming the crust as it ages. I never had an old one but I would be very curious.

Eric Ifune · Post by **Eric Ifune** » Sat Aug 20, 2005 3:51 pm

My belief is that crusted port is a nonvintage bottle aged port as opposed to a wood aged port.

mwaters · Post by **mwaters** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 9:02 pm

I was under the impression that crusted port was made in the same style as VP though blended from 2 or more years.

I am surprised the 94 grapes made it in the blend. I would have assumed crusted port would be non vintage years.

I look forward to learning more about this myself through this thread.

Great question!

Jason Brandt Lewis · Post by **Jason Brandt Lewis** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 10:41 am

Crusted Porto WAS a very popular style of Porto, especially in the UK, until the 1960s/1970s, when LBVs basically replaced this style of wine. Churchill's and a tiny handful of other houses ressurected this style from the brink of extinction . . . .

Think of it as a multi-vintage version of an LBV. As it ages, the wine will indeed through a crust (sediment) and needs decanting. (This is exactly why it was replaced by LBVs -- the early versions were filtered and wouldn't throw any of that nasty sediment people are always complaining about!)

IIRC, these are aged longer in wood than a true Vintage Porto, but I think it's the same as an LBV: 4-6 years in wood, the difference being that Crusted Porto is a non-vintage wine that will indeed age in the bottle.

Cheers,
Jason