TN: Cossart-Gordon 1920 Malmsey

[Eric Ifune]

Said by Noel Cossart to be the last Malvasia Candida from the legendary Faja dos Padres, but discounted by Alex Liddel in his book "Madeira." I guess I have to believe Liddel. A shame really, since the Faja is a lovely vinyard, and this is a lovely wine. I also remember an article a decade ago in which Micheal Broadbent listed this as one of his top ten wines from the 20th C.
Decanted through three layers of cheese cloth. Probably not necessary since all the sediment was adherent to the bottle sides. Then decanted again back into the cleaned and dried bottle. Left for 48 hours before first tasting.
Brilliant dark molasses color with gold-green highlights. Olive oil rim. Lovely aromas; smoky, spicy, lemons, grapefruit, and butter toffee. Medium bodied, but quite rich. Proper Malvasia sweetness, but perfectly balanced by lip-smacking acidity. Long, lemony, caramel finish. I love the acidity in this. It keeps making you want to take another sip. A proper dessert wine, but a refreshing one due to the lovely acidity. Only Madeira has this mix of richness, complexity, and refreshment. 96 points, I'll see if it improves even more in the next few days.

[Steve Pollack]

this one is on my wish list, but i'm afraid it will remain there as the only price i can find is $1200. has anyone found this for a more reasonable price?

[Marco D.]

Thanks for the note. I've not had this, but a 1920 CG Bual I had in 1999 was similarly spectacular and lively.