London Wine and Spirits Fair

Thomas McColl · Post by **Thomas McColl** » Thu May 18, 2006 3:14 pm

This afternoon I went to the last couple of hours of the wine trade fair in London, and only really tried the ports. I had read about it several weeks ago but I would not have bothered to go had I not found this website in the meantime and gotten inspired. I do not work in the drinks industry but it was still no problem to register.

I will show my true colors right off the bat and say that I am really more interested in drinking than tasting, and since I have never drunk any young VP before-- or for that matter ever compared more than two drinks at one time-- it would be presumptious to post notes, even if I could decipher them all! My rating system only consists of vg, good, OK, and nvg anyway, so no-one is missing anything.

As far as I am concerned the stand that stood out was Quinto do Portal. I tried the 2000 LBV, the 10yr tawny--which was the only tawny on ice, a welcome change-- and even the Ruby, and liked them all a lot. The Portal VP 2003 seemed very good compared to other '03 VP's, though like them all sort of hard to approach, but the most interesting thing is, they had another special '03 VP that was already much more refined and easier to drink. It was called something like extra special '03 VP.

An enjoyable time, and I was able to find my way back OK. I assume the Louis Armstrong lips are temporary.

Thomas

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Fri May 19, 2006 1:17 am

Thomas,

I have only been to the London W&STF one time, the first year it changed to its current venue. It was 2002, as the Port folks were all showing their about to be released 2000 Vintage Ports. I had tried them once prior to that event and could not wait to get another shot at a bunch of them, before having them sent here for a full analysis.

You have good taste with Portal. If you read through this travelogue which I finished recently, you'll find tasting notes on many Portal wines and you might enjoy the note on that Quinta do Portal II, as it is called. Early on it was called, Portal Plus ... but that was in cask and when released the name was changed to II, and it is certainly more approachable than their massive 2003 VP which will be better around 2030.

Thanks for your impressions!

Derek T. · Post by **Derek T.** » Fri May 19, 2006 2:35 am

Roy,

What are the intended differences in the standard Portal VP compared with Portal II ? Is one intended for long term development with the other being blended for younger drinking, like Sandeman have done with their Sandeman and Sandeman Vau VP's?

Derek

Ronald Wortel · Post by **Ronald Wortel** » Fri May 19, 2006 2:50 am

Roy Hersh wrote: Quinta do Portal II, as it is called. Early on it was called, Portal Plus

Just the other way around.

The final product is called Portal+.

I liked both very much, with a slight preference for the regular bottling. Great stuff!

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Fri May 19, 2006 1:02 pm

Ronnie is right and I may have to stop posting after midnight to maintain my accuracy.

The Portal+ is described below. The first set of TNs was from cask sample in July of 2005 and the second when tasted at the Quinta in October of last year:

2003 Quinta do Portal – an unheralded rising star in the Port trade that gains more popularity with each ensuing vintage. The Portal ’03 exhibits aromas of blueberry, anise, herbs and mint notes, with a scent of black pepper. This is a big and balanced full-bodied beauty with a soft approach and sweet ripe plum and chewy blueberry fruit, with lots of acidity. It’s an easy-to-enjoy wine and all of a sudden waves of palate crushing tannins roll in and take over, followed by an exceptionally long finish. This will age for decades. Keep your eyes on Quinta do Portal as they continue to make consistent, age worthy wines with 2003 their best ever Vintage Port. 3,880 cases of 6 bottles, 5,500 of 375ml bottles and 300 magnums produced. 95+ points

2003 Quinta do Portal II – inky black color with strawberry, spice, red licorice and a touch of cedar. This is a somewhat softer, more fruit forward and approachable style than the classic Portal VP. I am still not sure what the name will wind up being, but I doubt it will be “Portal II.” There is a grapy element to the juice although sweet flavors of plum and blueberry are also present. This is a seriously dense, age worthy wine, powerful, rich and viscous. Again, big ripe tannins dominate the drier finish of this Portal whose grapes come from Quinta dos Muros and are only 8 years old. The vinification took place in 1,000 litre stainless steel “lagares” and was later blended with wine vinified in stone lagares. 1,318 six packs and 60 magnums produced. 92 points

______________________________________________________

2003 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port – I enjoyed this even more than the cask sample. Our group was in agreement that this was the best wine on the table. Fabulous! Massive and structured like an armored tank. The juicy almost jammy dark berry fruit and acidity kept my salivary glands in overdrive. Excellent mouthfeel up front and then the tannins kick in and take control. A concentrated, powerful wine with even greater upside potential for the long haul. One of the top young Vintage Ports I’ve had on our trip. If you are over 50, buy the 1999 instead! 96+ points (10/29/05)

2003 Quinta do Portal Portal + Vintage Port – Black as coal. This is more feminine and even approachable at this point. It was a tannic cask sample so it was nice to see it flesh out a bit. Expansive blueberry and boysenberry fruit that is a showing well right now. The tannins are still present late in the game but this should be ready to drink in 15-20 years, unlike its big brother above. 93+ points (10/29/05)

Tom Archer · Post by **Tom Archer** » Fri May 19, 2006 4:36 pm

Portal used to be synonymous with rough 'n' ready farm kitchen home brew - looks like they've come a long way, or got some good PR guys in tow..

Whatever - I'd like to see some blind comparisons!

Tom

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Fri May 19, 2006 11:53 pm

Tom,

You won't have to look far. Check out the Port Shippers tasting that took place in Oporto last year. There were quite a few of the top palates in the industry at that blind tasting. Articles have been written with the results. Portal was way at the top. If I remember correctly their 2003 was voted 2nd best of the vintage overall. But check the facts, it may have been 3rd.

By the way, I have had every single Portal produced to date (most of them on several occasions), from their most basic wine to every one of their Vintage Ports. So which of their early Ports do you believe deserve this?

Portal used to be synonymous with rough 'n' ready farm kitchen home brew

Tom Archer · Post by **Tom Archer** » Sat May 20, 2006 5:55 pm

Roy,

I may have been a bit unkind - Portal has virtually no presence in the UK, and I havn't tried their wares - but those who have visited them seem to use words like rustic and primitive - maybe they've smartened themselves up a bit...

Tom

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Sun May 21, 2006 2:29 am

maybe they've smartened themselves up a bit...

Tom, I assume you refer to the Portal visitors who used those less than considerate and ill conceived adjectives in this case?

Someday, I hope to have the pleasure of opening a bottle of 1999 Quinta do Portal VP for you. Even though it is from an off-vintage, I'd be happy to see what you think. Find your way to come along on the 3 day FTLOP trip and I promise to hand carry it with me from the USA.

Ronald Wortel · Post by **Ronald Wortel** » Sun May 21, 2006 4:37 am

To a certain degree I must agree with Tom. Although I like the VP's of Portal, and some of the 'lesser' ports as well, I never quite understand what they are trying to achieve with their dry wines.

Tom Archer · Post by **Tom Archer** » Sun May 21, 2006 6:52 am

I assume you refer to the Portal visitors who used those less than considerate and ill conceived adjectives in this case

Those visitors include respected commentators - try looking up what Mayson has written in the past..

Tom

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Sun May 21, 2006 11:04 am

Ronnie and Tom,

If you guys are talking about dry table wines, then that should have been established. In that case, there is a big difference and I wouldn't have even remarked at all.

Al B. · Post by **Al B.** » Mon May 22, 2006 2:11 am

Thomas - thanks for posting about your visit to the LW&SF. Interesting reading. Do your notes remind you which ports were on show? Having heard how easy it was for you to register, I might try and attend next year's fair if there were enough ports on show to make it worth taking a day of my annual holiday allowance.

Tom - We had the chance to taste both the 2003 Portal and the 2003 Portal+ at the London offline in November 2005 that you weren't able to make because of its timing.

Both of the wines were extremely good. Both were served blind and were only revealed after everyone had tasted them.

I preferred the Portal+, which was fruitier and softer, but I also fully accept that the Portal may prove to be a better wine in 20 years time.

Alex

Thomas McColl · Post by **Thomas McColl** » Mon May 22, 2006 8:03 am

Hello Alex,

I was there at the end of the last day, and I think that some stands had already closed down. Also lots of bottles had only dregs in them by that point. And of course I did not try every single thing, but just flitted about. I did not see any Fonseca or Taylors, which was a pity. Otherwise, apart from the Portal bottles, I tried : Vesuvio '04, Quinto do Roriz '03 and '04, Graham Malvados '96, Sandeman '03, Warres '95 LBV, Kopke 2000, Feist 10 yr tawny, Dows crusted, and Cockburn '03.

On the first two days the fair closes at 6pm, so for people who work in London it might be possible to swing by for an hour or so after work.

Thomas

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Mon May 22, 2006 9:13 am

Next year I might even come to London, as the Fair will be crammed with Port producer's featuring their 2005 cask samples. I did this in 2002 to try the 2000s that were going to be shown there. That was my first trip to London and when I first met Mr. Nicos Neocleous, a very serious Port expert that many of you met at the Nov. 2005 offline.

nicos neocleous · Post by **nicos neocleous** » Mon May 22, 2006 10:09 am

Roy Hersh wrote:Next year I might even come to London, as the Fair will be crammed with Port producer's featuring their 2005 cask samples. I did this in 2002 to try the 2000s that were going to be shown there. That was my first trip to London and when I first met Mr. Nicos Neocleous, a very serious Port expert that many of you met at the Nov. 2005 offline.

Roy,

You'd be very welcome! How time flies...

Nicos