'Not Topping Off', The Madeira of the Future?

[Barry Sunderland]

As older vintage Madeira stocks dwindle down, I wonder if major Madeira producers will be looking to 'age' their wines faster by not topping off the barrels as quickly or at all, and increasing the temperatures of storage. One recent example of this method comes from Ricardo Freitas' handling of his re-released 1982 Barbeito Boal. Thoughts/insight?

[Eric Ifune]

I think it more complicated than just not topping off or increasing the temperatures. I think each wine is an individual and responds differently to different conditions. The winemaker determines what is best for that particular wine; i.e. where in the lodge to put the cask or whether to top off or not. That said, and I'm only making wild guesses here, it may be that the richer styles such as Malvasia or Bual can respond better to more aggressive canteiro cellaring such as extremes in temperatures and headspace. More delicate styles like Terrantez or Sercial might not tolerate it as well.

[Barry Sunderland]

I think it more complicated than just not topping off or increasing the temperatures. I think each wine is an individual and responds differently to different conditions. The winemaker determines what is best for that particular wine; i.e. where in the lodge to put the cask or whether to top off or not. That said, and I'm only making wild guesses here, it may be that the richer styles such as Malvasia or Bual can respond better to more aggressive canteiro cellaring such as extremes in temperatures and headspace. More delicate styles like Terrantez or Sercial might not tolerate it as well.

Fascinating, Eric. Thanks for your insight.