neutral spirit in port?

[John F. Newman]

What can anyone tell me about the "neutral spirit" added to port. I assume neutral means that it imparts no flavor to the product. What are some of the rules governing the spirit, how it's made, what it's made from etc.?

[Roy Hersh]

Hi John. Aguardente is grape neutral spirit and NOT brandy. It used to come specifically from Portugal. But IIRC, around 1910 the laws changed. Until then it had to be purchased from grapes grown in Portugal, typically in the Southern half of the country, but a little from up North too. In more recent years, lots of the aguardente comes from the South of Spain and France too. The alc. in it is 77% and it has a fiery, almost Tequila like aroma and flavor ... to me. The improvement in quality in recent decades (2) has been dramatic. This is likey the TOP reason why Vintage Ports and Port in general has improved so quickly and for VP ... is more approachable early on. There a ton more that can be written about this topic, like the scandal of 1972/'73 ... but all of that already is well documented here on the FTLOP Forum. Do a search on top for this topic and you shall likely find a bunch.

Lastly, companies these days are doing very careful tastings ahead of time to discern the characterisitics they are looking for in aguardents, before they make their contracts for the next year. As prices have skyrocketed in the past 36 months, this is having a drastic affect on the production costs. In most types of Port that are aged in "pipes" (550 liter casks) the aguardente is added to the must of fermenting Port in the ratio of (440 liters of grape/juice) with 110 liters of grape neutral spirit.

[Glenn E.]

Aguardente is grape neutral spirit and NOT brandy.

Some clarification for those puzzled by this statement.

Aguardente is often referred to as brandy when describing how Port is made. Roy is quite right in saying that it is NOT brandy, however, but this is mostly for technical reasons. Any product that is going to be labeled and sold as brandy must meet a variety of legal conditions that aguardente doesn't meet. Those definitions vary somewhat based on where it is being sold, too, making it even more difficult. For example, in the EU brandy must be aged for 6 months in oak, while in the US if it is aged in oak for less than 2 years it must be labeled as "immature." It isn't a legal requirement, but brandy also typically has a maximum alcohol content of 60% (120 proof) while aguardente used for Port is 77% alcohol. So while aguardente is made of the same material and in the same way as brandy, it can't be sold or labeled as brandy.

Lucky for us, "brandy" isn't a denomination of origin, so calling aguardente brandy isn't as big of a goof as calling a California fortified wine "port."

[John F. Newman]

I have several bottles of aguardente in the house, and none of them are neutral to me! holy moly - we translate it to "firewater"

They are mostly home-made aguardente and can peel paint. My father-in-law was shocked and promised no more aguardente when he saw me making "Chourico de bombeiro" with it (which is grilled (or flambéed?) portuguese sausage where the liquor is the heat source in a little well above the chourico).

I have inherited some old aguardente, but not sure if it is any good (quality-wise). Maybe I'll post some pics of the bottles later on today.

[Roy Hersh]

I have had some excellent 80 and 100 year old aguardente bottlings at the Aquapura Resort Hotel in Douro, where the chef sat down with us and brought out these beautiful old bottlings he kept locked up for occasions like that. Glad I had finished my Port by that time, there would have been NO turning back. I admit it was very delicious and we sat there for quite a few hours. Very very potent and I was glad that I was not with a group!!!

Glenn, you have become quite the consummate geek. I am proud of you for understanding that nuanced distinction.

[Derek T.]

Glenn, you have become quite the consummate geek.

+1

[Glenn E.]

Glenn, you have become quite the consummate geek.

+1

Now there's a couple of pots calling the kettle black!

I learned from the masters.

[Derek T.]

I learned from the masters.

Touché!

[Michael T]

Can aguardiente be purchased online in the U.S.?

[Andy Velebil]

Can aguardiente be purchased online in the U.S.?

I know you can buy it here in the States. But I don't know what shipping laws are with this and suspect it will vary greatly state by state.

[John F. Newman]

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here are some of the bottles of aguardent in my liquor cabinet. One is a pear aguardent, another a brandy, and 2 homemade - one in a large plastic luso bottle and the other in an old green wine bottle. The store bought bottles are old, but I have no idea how old. the wax seal on one is deteriorated, and the label looks like it was taped back on.

This is my first time posting pics. hopefully they show up.

[Roy Hersh]

Good job, John!!!