1989 D'Oliveiras Malvasia

[Justin A]

Decided to pop and pour this one when I got home from work after drinking the tail end of a 20 year Terrantez H&H. First thing you notice is the beautiful rich and shiny color of the wine. Really quite lovely. The aromatics are 100% young madeira. That is, caramel, molasses and coca cola and a bit of bitterness like the smell of an unripe banana. Taste is very sweet. Perhaps the sweetest madeira I have ever had. The sweetness is accentuated by the lack of acidity. Some grip and some focus, but when your tongue hits the roof of your closed mouth and you breath you are reminded of just how sweet this is. Not a great finish either. I think I prefer the Barbeito style of very young Madeiras than that of D'Oliveiras due to the great acidity that young Barbeito wines manage to have that make the wine interesting. I know I loved their 1997 colheita. Perhaps its a varietal thing. Similarly, I think Malvasia shouldn't be bottled until at least 40 so it has time in wood to shed the baby fat and approach the proper balance of sweetness to acidity. Has anyone ever had a young Malvasia that was balanced??? This '89 needs alot of sleep in wood.... A lot. I guess its back to the cellar for something more approachable.

[Roy Hersh]

Yes, I have even had 2011 cask samples of Malvasia which I thought was an extremely balanced and delicious Madeira.

That counts as young, right?

[Miguel Simoes]

Opened one a few weeks back and had some over this past weekend and really enjoyed it.

Agree that it is on the sweeter side of the nicer Malvazias I've tasted, but love the aroma and taste overall.

[Daniel Fraley]

Justin, I opened this bottle a week before Thanksgiving to give it plenty of time to decant... still too sweet the day of. Now, two weeks in, and it's a well balanced b.e.a.u.t.y.

[Justin A]

Daniel,
Thanks. Will give it another whirl one day this week and see what its like.

[Justin A]

Daniel,
You nailed it. Tried some last night and the acidity that I love so much was there. Finally something to balance out the sweetness! I guess it just needed some air!

[Niklas J]

Yes, I have even had 2011 cask samples of Malvasia which I thought was an extremely balanced and delicious Madeira.

That counts as young, right?

Justin; I think this comes down to preferences. I for example, find myself craving for young Malvasia, preferably colheitas by either Vinhos Barbeito or Blandy's. The perfume is unbeatable and I just love it.

If you prefer age on your Malvasia; I hope you've purchased the Mãe Manuela from Vinhos Barbeito. That is a truly great wine! Ricardo has even used a 1880 Malvasia vintage in the blend!

All the best,

Niklas