Did you get up to the Douro, Tom?
More down than up, as I recall - we headed into Portugal from the top - either Braganca or Chaves - I'm not sure now exactly - and then headed to Porto, before going south.
We were driving a white Mazda 626 which was absolutely caked in dust by the time we made it to Porto. I remember we found a small hotel on the outskirts of the city, and had to cross the road for breakfast. As we did so, we saw a guy watering some plants with a hosepipe, and pointed to our car, in the hope he might sluice some of the excess dust off for us.
When we emerged, after a leisurely repast, the car was gleaming in the sunshine, the guy busily at work with a leather..
- I recall we tipped him well..!