Last week was the most fast paced port wine experience in my life so far and I wanted to share some impressions and titbits from the 3 tastings I attended during Thursday, Friday and Saturday and some pictures.
Quevedo
Thursday kicked of with an exclusive tasting of Quevedo. Hosting the event was the Danish importer and Oscar Quevedo, who was in Denmark for the large port fair being held on Saturday in Roskilde.
The night took a great turn immediately when Oscar decided to scrap the power point presentation and just go a capella. This worked out great and Oscar had so much knowledge and kept the audience engaged with dialogue and questions. We hit a small snag when the chef accidentally locked the door to the kitchen where the Rosé port was in the fridge (no big loss). The rest of the evening Oscar guided us through the history of both port, the Douro valley and the Quevedo family and winery.
I learned new information such as:
* Douro means "of gold" which gave naming to the river cause of the rain causing landslides and the excess soil colouring the river golden/brown
* Vintage port is less than 1% of the yield per year
* There is roughly 71 producers of port in the Douro valley
* 5 of those 71 producers handle more than 80% of the total production out of the Douro valley
* The yield per vine is roughly 1.5 kg
* The word "Tawny" comes from the Tawny Owl in the UK
After the tasting was over I was lucky enough that Oscar had time to hang out a bit and talk with him. Was great to get to met him, he is extremely friendly and out going person that I instantly took a liking to. I asked him some different things and I had one silly question that I went ahead and asked him anyway. It was as follows: "If you could pick any Quinta in the Douro valley that you could include in your production portfolio which would you chose? (You cannot pick Noval's Nacional nor Taylor's Vargellas). Oscars answer was (He wanted to pick Nacional) he would go for Quinta de Vesuvio as he though it would compliment his existing properties the best.
The wines tasted was (The TN's have been added to the FTLOP DB):
Quevedo White - 88 pts
Quevedo Rosé - 85 pts
Quevedo Tawny Reserve - 89 pts
Quevedo 1996 Colheita - 89 pts
Quevedo 20Yo Tawny - 90+ pts (QPR)
Quevedo 40YO Tawny - 91+ pts
Quevedo 2011 LBV - 91 pts (WOTN)
Quevedo Crusted Port - 87 pts
Quevedo 2007 Vintage 90 pts
Dow's
After a days hard work on the island on which Copenhagen is placed (I am on the mainland) I had gotten a spot at a free tasting of Dow's at the Danish importer The Winecompany. Again they had a participant from Portugal attending the tasting in this case Market Manger Gustavo Devesas. This tasting was bit more informal than the Quevedo at their storage facility. But simple is good and initially we were only around 8 people participating (more joined later).
Gustavo made a really nice presentation of Dow's and the different varieties he had lined up for us to taste. For a free tasting it was a really splendid line-up in my humble opinion. I had not tasted any of the ports previously so I was in for a treat. The stand outs for me were the SQ and the 85' though the Crusted had a splendid nose. I must get my hand on one of those 85' for a horizontal I am planning in my mind.
Dow's 1999 Colheita 89 pts
Dow's 2011 Late Bottle Vintage - 90 pts
Dow's Crusted Port - 89 pts
Dow's 2012 Single Quinta Senhora da Ribiera 90-91 pts
Dow's 1985 Vintage -92+ pts
Titbits from the Dow's tasting:
* Dow's sell more LBV than any other style
* The older a tawny gets the more difficult it is to pair with food, cause of the acid loss - according to Gustavo
* The crust in Crusted Port refers to the layer of sediment /crust that the remaining port in the barrels which was drunk during the travels by boat from Portugal to Southampton. This is also refereed to as the "Vintage port of the poor people" as this was the remains that the hard workers got to drink.
* A magnum bottle has the best storage potential of all bottle size according to Gustavo.
* Tawny style port is a social port where focus in on the social interaction and not on the actual port
* The decanter always passes clockwise
* If someone at a tasting isn't paying attention and passing the decanter around and you are out of port, you should be polite and say to the room: "Do you know the bishop of Norwich?" Apparently the bishop of Norwich was very good a hugging the decanter
* The top 3 consuming countries of vintage port are (regardless of number of inhabitants): UK, US and Denmark
* Dow's will from now on only produce a LBV in declared vintage years.
* The 2011 LBV opening was a Denmark / World premier and only 10 cases has been bottled so far.
Port Fair
This is the second year running that the Port Fair aka Portvinmessen has taken place in Roskilde. Behind it is some Danish guys that some of you might know. Peter Skov, Anders Christensen, Ivan Madsen and more. Here is the website so you can see the different stands and producers.
http://www.portvinsmessen.dk/00008/
It was my first year participating and I had persuaded my girlfriends to join me with the promise of her getting some shopping time in Copenhagen as she does not like port. There was 2 seatings of each 2 hours in which I participated in the latter one. It was quite hectic as each seating had around 350 people in it., but I had made a plan from the start on which tables I had to visit and after that I just winged it. I tried to make very quick taste notes for each sample I had but it was difficult and I didn't want to lose focus on the other people around me. Here are my points from the session:
2003 Gould Campbell Vintage - 90 pts
1985 Gould Campbell Vintage - 91+ pts
1985 SWC Vintage - 92 pts superb nose
1980 SWC Vintage - 91+ pts
1977 Quarles Harris Vintage - 89 pts - loads of spirit and some cork sediment
2013 Quinta do Vesuvio - 93+ pts (WOTN)
2013 Dow's SQ Senhora da Ribiera - 90 pts (Better than the 2012)
2004 Dow's Quinta do Bomfin - 91 pts
1975 Dow's Vintage 91+ pts
2011 Ferriera Vintage 93 pts
Bulas 20 YO - 90 pts
Bulas 30 YO - 92+ pts
Bulas 40 YO - 91 pts
DR 40 YO - 91 pts
DR 10 YO - 89 pts
1985 Presidental Colheita (Da Silva) - 87 pts
Javali 2013 Vintage - 89 pts
Javali 30 YO - 91+ pts
Vasques de Cavalho 30 YO - 90 pts
Vasques de Cavalho 2013 Vintage - 89 pts
1985 Taylor's Vintage - 90 pts
1998 Weise & Krohn Colheita - 90 pts
Devesa 20 YO White - 90+ pts
Devesa 20 YO - 90 pts
Fair overview
Stand with only vintage port - what is not to like. My favourite here was SWC 1985
Hands down the best port on the fair
My first crack at a magnum
Cool looking bottles from Vasques de Carvalho - the juice matches the looks
Not something you see every day - didnt taste it though (extra fee)
Must add this great vintage to my cellar
The family from Javali - Sooon they will be able to make a 40YO Tawny. Humble and friendly people
Their 2013 vintage
Devesa had one of the most popular stands. They had both regular and white tawnies. They were the one selling the most on the day.
A lot of 2013 vintages, here from Pocas
Note: Being at tastings and drinking while taking notes, listing and conversing with fellow attendees I might have heard or misunderstood something.
This was a great experience which will be hard to top, but visiting Porto and Douro in the fall will probably do the trick.
Cheers Thomas