Discussion of 2007 VP scores by WS

[Roy Hersh]

Thanks Alex. I just responded to that TN, as I always check the TN section first when coming to FTLOP. I enjoyed your impressions.

Melanie and Eric, I liked reading your puppy vs. dog analogy. As you are both relatively young in life, putting away 2007s will not be a problem for either of you and will reward you later in life when looking to open a gorgeous mature VP that you are not worried may disappoint you, is if you had purchased an old dog of a Port from a retailer or auction, it is always a crap shoot.

[Al B.]

Roy asked a question in the tasting notes section where I posted my impressions of the 2007 Noval, how that wine compared to others I've tasted. I thought the easiest way to answer the question would be to post all of my 2007 notes as a block from elsewhere on the web. The order in which the wines are written was the order in which they were tasted. Unless noted, the wines were tasted over an extended period of a few days or on more than one occasion. The first half of these wines listed were tasted blind, the others knowing what I was tasting.

2007 Cask Sample Review

2007 has produced some superb ports. I have only been tasting cask samples and newly bottled samples since 2003, but these are the softest and most easily approached newly bottled ports that I have encountered. There are plenty of tannins and acidity in these ports, but the tannins are soft and ripe. Fruit levels are very impressive, with blackcurrant dominating the flavour profiles – but there are two particular shippers who have produced very different styles of port, much more elegant and restrained than the many bold blockbusters.


Gould Campbell
Almost transparent in the centre; a mixture of crimson with a touch of violet. Initially open and perfumed on the nose with lovely blueberries, but this disappeared once the bottle had been open for a few days. Lovely texture in the mouth, soft and creamy with plenty of fruit but some fierce tannins make this a difficult wine to drink young. Dry start to the aftertaste, with tannins strong but with enough sweet fruit to always soften the tannic grip. This is a good wine; there is all the fruit needed to allow the tannins to soften with time in the cellar. 90-92.

Vesuvio
Impenetrable and opaque; crimson / magenta right into the rim. Full and open on the nose with lots of blueberries, but with a unique twist of an herbal or coriander undertone. Very silky texture, restrained sweet fruit and black liquorice dominate the flavours. Tannins are firm but fair, giving a very fine port with impressive depth. Aftertaste starts with a quick burst of heat, but is very big and full of burnt toast and black cherries. This is a great port and one from the vintage to look out for. 92-94.

Niepoort
One of the lightest in colour of the samples tasted, transparent centre – crimson not violet on the rim. Warm, sweet and fruity on the nose, with a unique tone of very ripe pineapple mixed in with the fresh blueberries. Immediately very fruity in the mouth but with a strong tannic grip that dries out the cheeks and doesn’t let go. Perhaps a little more straightforward in flavour profile than some others of the vintage. The alcohol gives a big burst of heat at the start of the aftertaste, which is dominated by the tannins. 87-89.

Noval
Magenta in colour, very red with only the faintest hint of violet on the rim; almost, but not quite transparent in the centre. Very open, fruity nose; fresh and ripe but tart blackcurrants. Full of sweet blackcurrants; develops many layers but develops them slowly and at a measured pace with all the components in harmony. Pronounced tannins, but they are soft and well balanced. One of the sweeter ports tasted. The aftertaste is warm and evolves through several phases with a perfect balance between fruit and tannin and lasts a very long time. Big and burly but with the perfect balance to pull this off and mature in the cellar for a long time; one to hunt out and buy. 94-96.

Quarles Harris
This is thick and dark purple. Looking big and broody. Very subdued on the nose, with little escaping but a little sweet strawberry and Christmas spices. Sweet, silky and seductive on the tongue with layers of flavour over gentle tannins that build into a beautiful crescendo. The aftertaste and finish are not big and are dominated by the fine grained tannins with a nice streak of rhubarb. Not as big as the expectations created by the colour. 90-92.

Crasto
Lighter than most from the vintage, clearly red and with no violet in the spectrum; transparent centre. Very little to pick up on the nose, very lightly scented. Incredibly smooth and seductive texture, very soft. The fruit is restrained and elegant redcurrant around a soft and gentle tannic core. Lovely aftertaste and huge finish that lasts for minutes. A fabulous port for those who like an elegant and restrained style, quite unlike most of the ports from the vintage. One which is very easy to drink now and will hold well for 20+ years. 90-92.

Romaneira
Magenta in colour with the barest hint of purple. Lovely nose of floral perfumes and blackcurrants; very attractive. Gentle on the tongue, bringing pure but acidic blackcurrant. Most of the structure and focus comes from the acidity with little tannin showing in the wine. Perhaps a little straightforward in its flavour profile. The length is good, with chocolate and fruit flavours lasting quite a long time. One of the least sweet of the ports from the vintage. 88-90.

Smith Woodhouse
Opaque and intense magenta, with the colour holding right into the rim. Faint and delicate on the nose with a little earthy blackcurrant fruit mixed with crushed nettle leaves. Sweet and jammy at first, but then the fruit and tannins appear with an enjoyable balance between these components, although the acidity is biting – almost painfully. The aftertaste is of dark chocolate and licorice root and leaves the cheeks tingling. This port has a nice balance and considerable promise for the future. 91-93.

Noval Silval
Magenta in colour, just short of transparent in the centre. Very dull on the nose, showing a little sweet cola. Medium bodied in the mouth, fruit to the fore and with strong tannins driving out the fruit from the mid-palate. Although the fruit outlasts the tannins, there is also a very strong core of acidity to this wine. The acidity comes through strongly on the aftertaste, which is low key but quite long and is dominated by Bramley apples. This port has all the components needed to be very impressive, but they are not well integrated. 86-88.

Graham
Deep in colour, opaque and with a violet rim – interestingly there was no violet in the colour when the bottle was first opened and this developed over the next few days. Soft and gentle on the nose with black cherries the dominant scent. Initially a bit hollow in the mouth, but this quickly fills out with powerful fruit and tannins that support but are never allowed to dominate. There is a big dose of acidity in this port, but not as much as in some which reach painful levels. A tannin dominated aftertaste and a long and mouthfilling length – one of the bigger aftertastes from the barrel samples tasted. Quite a delicious port and one worth hunting out. 93-95.

Warre
Deep red with a transparent centre. Soft, sweet brambles on the muted nose. Layers of sweet fruit unfold themselves in the mouth, mixed in with gentle, soft tannins that grip but never overwhelm. A quick burst of alcohol on the aftertaste, but this settles into a big and flavoursome length that is dominated by the fruit. This is big and raw, with a lot of potential. 89-91.

Dow
Deep red with a violet rim and a centre that was almost transparent. Sweet fruit on the nose, together with touches of herbs such as coriander and curry. The tannins grab control as soon as the wine enters the mouth and dominate fiercely, not really allowing the fruit to become the centre of attention without a lot of hard work. The acidity burns on swallowing but the flavours that follow are mouthfilling and enjoyable. Well made and with plenty to offer, but probably in the bottom half of the ports sampled. 85-87.
I note with some caution that the sample of Dow I tasted as a snapshot at a presentation by the Symingtons of their 2007 ports, I rated at 90-92 points. It is possible that the bottle I was able to sample over several days was flawed in some way.

Canais
Deep crimson in colour. Nose is elegant and floral, with lovely blackcurrants. Texture is a little thin, but the flavours and tannins are very well balanced with the tannins gripping the mouth like a gently perfumed vice. The aftertaste and length are modest, reminding of the old fashioned sherbet-lemon sweets. Pleasing and balanced; made in an elegant style. 86-88.

Calem
Snapshot tasting note. Deep red colour, young but with no purple. Vigorous and fresh nose of vibrant fruit. Sweet entry, full of fruit; good levels of acidity and soft tannins. Lots of fruit in the mix, good complexity. Elegance and finesse, not a blockbuster but with lovely balance. Nice drinking in a decade or two. 90-92.

Churchill
Damp vegetation on the nose, with some strong floral components. A wonderful silky texture, with strong and biting tannins. The fruit takes a long time to come through, but is so ripe and tasty. This is a port which will knit together nicely. 90-92.

Croft
Quite light in colour and with a violet rim. Nose is dominated by herbaceousness and blackcurrants. Restrained but fruity entry with soft tannins and a slightly awkward balance. Good, big aftertaste. Not as good as 2003 but still very pleasant. 87-89

Duorum
Snapshot tasting note. Deep red, dark magenta in tone. Beautiful floral nose, exquisite perfume. Silky texture, full of blueberry but port that comes with brutal tanning. Patience aerating the wine just reveals more tannin! A big, fruity aftertaste with a slight green woody finish. Impressive. 91-93.

Ramos Pinto Quinta de Ervamoira
Snapshot tasting note. Deep red with opaque purple core. Vibrant blackcurrants on the nose, very lively. Soft and satin texture, followed by a huge wave of tannic blackcurrants. Big, dry aftertaste with wonderful levels of fruit and a great length. Very tasty port. 90-92.

Fonseca
Snapshot tasting note. Deeply extracted colour but just transparent in the centre and with a violet rim. Same nose of green leaves and blackcurrants as in the Croft, but this time with the alcohol showing through. Not a great smell. Very silky mouthfeel, gentle and caressing. Good development of fruit in the mid-palate and with the tannins and acidity to balance it out. Terrific aftertaste, huge in dimensions and in length. 92-94.

Churchill Quinta da Gricha
Dark and opaque in colour; harbaceous nose with a rich mulberrry fruit. A silky texture, with gentle sweet fruit and tannins which slide quietly into place. A lovely balance between the fruit and the acidity. Harmonious and elegant and with a delicious aftertaste. 89-91.

Martinez
Perfumed nose, lots of floral notes dominating over the fruit. Slightly watery texture, good levels of fruit and complexity; dry tannins sieze control, but not offensively. The aftertaste starts dry and is full of apples and blackcurrants. Good volume, but not big or very long. 85-87.

Maynard
Snapshot tasting note. Deep red, slight purple tinge to the centre. Harsh touch to the nose, with blackcurrant and the herbaceousness that seems typical of the vintage. Soft texture, very tannic and this initially overwhelms the fruit in the wine. Patience allows the sweet blackcurrant to return. Restrained aftertaste, some mild chocolate mixed with sweet fruit. 86-88.

Morgada da Cacada
Snapshot tasting note. Inky purple in colour, opaque and sticking to the sides of the glass. Very fragrant and floral nose, full of ripe blueberries but swirling brings a slightly unpleasant streak of petrol. Strong and firm tannins hold a grip on the cheeks and teeth. Good levels of ripe, almost jammy, fruit but also an astonishing level of acidity which cuts through the jamminess; some lovely floral components. The acidity creates a slight burn on swallowing, but this fades quickly to leave a long finish of dark chocolate. A mid-tier port from an excellent year. 87/100.

Niepoort Pisca
Young red colour. Nose quite closed; what there is, is floral. Very sweet in the mouth, showing plenty of grip. Lots of blackcurrant and sour bramble fruit. The finish is dominated by the tannins, but is quite long. Other 2007 ports are better than this. 85-87.

Quinta do Nova de Nossa Senhora de Carmo
Snapshot view. Mid red in colour; harsh and sour raspberry nose. Soft and silky texture, smooth fruit eases over the tongue before structural acidity and gentle tannins show through. Dry aftertaste, dominated by the tannin but with a good finish of cherry stones. Lightweight and in an elegant style. 87-89.

Passadouro
Tanky and full of grapes on the nose, with some lovely floral elements. Smooth into the mouth with lots of sweet fruit; very opulent, with big tannins and rich blackcurrants. The aftertaste is dry and tannic but opens up to a tingling and long length. 88-90.

Pintas
Sweet and flavoursome entry; gentle grip which grows to become very strong. An acidic bite, but plenty of flavour. A big presence for a big wine with lots of complexity. Simply delicious. 88-90.

Quevedo
5,000 litres produced, selling at EUR 20 ex-cellars. Deep red, opaque centre and a violet rim. Young and tanky on the nose. Silky structure with lovely fruit. Big tannins, but with great fruit to balance out the tannins and soft acidity. Super aftertaste, very big and very attractive. Really good wine. 92-94.

Ramos Pinto
Snapshot tasting note. Distinctly purple, closed and the typical 2007 nose of violets and slight herbaceousness - perhaps a little harsh. Lovely smooth entry, but very acidic and lacking a little in balance. A good aftertaste, pleasant and reasonable length - perhaps slightly harsh. 82-84.

Roriz
Deep purple colour. Lovely floral nose, hugely perfumed. Strangely hollow entry with the first mouthfeel being dominated by the acidity. Fruit is gentle and restrained. Tannins are quite gripping. Dry and gripping start to the aftertaste but they fade slowly to leave a long blackcurrant aftertaste. Quite light compared to other wines from the Symington stable. 85-87.

Quinta de la Rosa
Snapshot tasting note. Deep scarlet in colour and fairly closed on the nose. Viscious grip on the tongue, but with the fruit needed to balance. Lots of acidity and lovely fruit layers. A long and delicious aftertaste. 89-91.

Sandeman
Cask sample. Intense red in colour, with violet dominating; an opaque centre. Superb blueberry nose, sweetening the blackcurrant juice. Very sweet entry, plenty of fruit but also hugely tannic and with a strong acidic core. A very big wine with some massive potential. 92-94.

Skeffington
Taylor started making the Skeffington ports in the 1970's. This port is deeply coloured but with a centre that is just transparent, with a crimson rim that has just a touch of violet on it. Wonderfully open nose that just lifts out of the glass and wraps the nose in blackcurrants. Silky texture in the mouth with generous amounts of delicate fruit and a crushed leaf essence. The tannins are present but very gentle. The aftertaste is mouthfilling and enjoyable and build to a big crescendo of gentle tannin and big fruit. Very nice early drinking port. 86-88.

Taylor
Deeply crimson in colour, but with a centre that was just transparent. Again a nose with green leaves all over it, closed and quite difficult to coax anyuthing out of the glass, but what does come out is pleasant ripe fruit. Very silky texture on entry, but always witht he big tannins hiding behind the layers of fruit. The aftertaste is generous and mouthfilling, full of layers of flavour. A good port, but not quite as good as the Fonseca. 91-93

Quinta do Vale de Dona Maria
Crushed nettles and bitter blueberries. Big on the nose, big in the mouth with a soft and gentle structure. Tannins and fruit are big and very grippy. The tannic grip is huge at the start of the aftertaste, which is big and long. 89-91

Quinta do Vale Meao
An impenetrable purple colour. Closed on the nose, but with some herbaceousness and a hint of sweet blackberry. Full bodied and a lovely mouth-feel full of caressing sweet bramble. Tannins firm but gentle and flavours that bring wonderful development. Big aftertaste, an impressive port. 91-93.

For what it's worth, my other half thought the Warre was the best of the wines sampled, with the best balance between the components and with plenty of fruit to keep it going for many years - but she refused to score it. Personally, I thought the Noval was the best of the wines which I tasted and was the one which hit my personal profile for the port I would most like to own. A few people must have agreed with me as three tranches sold out very quickly in the UK.