For The Love Of Port

So...after a tough period at work and with a backlog of holiday to take, I planned a bike tour of France and Spain to get myself back into shape and thought it would be good fun to end up in porto/VNdeG for a blowout meal and port tasting session before heading home.

I had the croft '91 at the Taylor restaurant lined up (though not without spending some time mulling over tromba rija after Glenn's write-up) before realising to my horror that it would be closed on my one night in the city - a Sunday.

So...any suggestions for a nice restaurant (and/or bar) where I can get a good feed and enjoy some port on a Sunday night? I will be eating/drinking alone so a bit of atmosphere and/or a nice spot to read a book would be good. The fladgate terrace looked perfect...

If anyone has any good rcommendations for a cheap or moderate hotel whose proprietors won't faint at the sight of a sweaty guy turning up on a touring bike, that would also much appreciated (before I dive in with whatever comes up on the internet).

On the Saturday night, I will aim to stay in either pinhao or peso de regua before cycling down alongside the douro the next day. Is there any consensus on which would make a nice overnight stop (arriving late afternoon)?

I will do the douro properly on another trip - this holiday is about the cycling - but it would be nice to get a good taster for the couple of nights I am in the area.

many thanks

Rob

Rob C. wrote:
I had the croft '91 at the Taylor restaurant lined up (though not without spending some time mulling over tromba rija after Glenn's write-up) before realising to my horror that it would be closed on my one night in the city - a Sunday.

Rob,

IIRC they are now open on Sundays...I found this posted. Not sure if it includes the restaurant, but I can find out for sure if you'd like. But it would be an early dinner as they close at 5pm

June 29, 2010
by FladgatePartnershipvisitorscentres

Great news for all Taylor’s supporters! From July 2010 Taylor’s visitors’ centre will be open seven days a week.

So, if you are planning a journey to the North of Portugal make sure you don’t miss the alluring Taylor’s Port wine lodges.

Public opening hours – All year round:

Monday to Friday, from 10am to 6pm (July- August from 10am to 7pm)

Saturdays and Sundays, from 10am to 5pm

We look forward to your visit!

Ouch - would be a tough ask - even with a very early morning start I am looking at a late afternoon to early evening arrival.

As it was, I was relying on the fact that 9.00pm is a relatively early dinner in that part of the world...

Rob C. wrote:Ouch - would be a tough ask - even with a very early morning start I am looking at a late afternoon to early evening arrival.

As it was, I was relying on the fact that 9.00pm is a relatively early dinner in that part of the world...

Yeah that won't work...I've sent you an email

Hope I haven't missed you before your departure - pensão do norte, next to Bolhao metro stop in central porto - corner of Rua Fernando Tomas and Rua Sta Catarina, is terrific, inexpensive and if they took me in for a month, their standards are very flexible!!! http://www.pensaodonorte.com/

re late dinner - last I knew Barão Fladgate did lunches only, I expect to be passing by there tomorrow, can double check. They are a bit posh and pricey (for Porto). Are you familiar with Gaia? up on the avenida near the metro stop Camera Gaia is Assador Tipico - EXCELLENT steak house - you want vitella - and they have Ramos Pinto's Duas Quintas. I live in Gaia, would be happy to help. If you want to contact me, feel free, with any questions - I think you can email me through this site??? boa viagem

If I were you Rob, in Cynthia, I'd put my trust. Have a great time and a very safe ride. Should be amazing on a bicycle. I bet Andy is jealous.

Roy Hersh wrote: Should be amazing on a bicycle. I bet Andy is jealous.

Are you kidding me, I've driven in the Douro and that's scary enough

I admit I've shivered when I've seen cyclists on the streets, but as a pedestrian I've actually had far more courtesy from the Portuguese than I ever had in England - hopefully they respect cyclists too. And yes, I know the rep, all I can say is, so far so good myself, on foot. BTW Rob - you know it's madly hilly? good luck!

"Madly hilly" ... wow, you really have adapted to the ways of the Brits, undestated and all. Madly Hilly ... isn't that one of those hip flask wines they sell in pints?

Roy Hersh wrote:"Madly hilly" ... wow, you really have adapted to the ways of the Brits, undestated and all. Madly Hilly ... isn't that one of those hip flask wines they sell in pints?

At least she hasn't said "just put the cycle in the boot and get your kit clad arse in here."

Andy... >>blush<< I haven't even met the gentleman! Roy - speaking of dodgy wines, do they still make Ripple?

Cynthia, does Pensao do Norte have air conditioning? I'm going to need an inexpensive hotel for 2 nights following the Harvest Tour and this certainly fits the bill. But I have difficulty sleeping if too warm or if the air is too humid, so air conditioning would be a big plus for me.

Yes it does - though I admit I always left the windows open personally. One downside to being central - it can be a little noisy - though if windows are shut and a/c on you may not notice! it is pretty basic, older section has wooden floors and some charm, newer section a bit clinical, but the housekeeping is scrupulous - frankly, the biggest consideration for me! I can put up with a lot if a place is clean. Free Wifi down in the little bar, but can sometimes pick up signal in your room on that side of the building or on that or next floor generally. Ask reception to give you the login code for the wifi. Enjoy!

One other thought for visitors to Porto - little known factoid: In the Palacio da Bolsa (next to IVDP) is Viniportugal - they have a tasting room - free! Mon - Sat 10:00 - 17:00 usually 6 wines on show from a featured region - for most of september Lisboa - Beira Interior - Tejo - Going into October Algarve - Dão and Alentejo. in portuguese, but you can probably figure out most of it, and a link to list of regions featured etc: http://www.viniportugal.pt/index.php?op ... Itemid=108 And they have a similar tasting room in Lisboa, fyi. Palacio is rather fabulous, worth the 3 Euros or whatever it costs if you have any interest in architecture or beautiful interiors, and their little tourist shop occasionally has some good wine books - a bit off and on. But access to Viniportugal and the tastings is free. Across the street from the IVDP next door is an excellent small wine shop - looks like almost nothing from outside, but it is long and narrow and there is a lot there once you're inside, woman I met was terrific. Also Vinilogia has now opened a wine shop next door, but staffed by a frenchman (not jean phillipe, someone else) who knew nothing about the wines, very disappointing. But they have the Muxagat 2005 which I recommend highly.

Cynthia,

I wasn't aware of the Viniportugal tasting room, I'll have some free time and will try and check it out..thanks!