For The Love Of Port

This might be "port arcana" rather than "port basics" but here goes:

Last Friday I took receipt of a case of 1997 Dow and a case of 1983 Dow. I noticed one of the '97 Dow had a low fill level. I would call it "very low neck." I looked at the others and all of the 1997s had the same low fill. Just to compare, I looked at each of the 1983s and all of them had the high neck fill I consider normal.

There was no sign of any leakage, elevated cork, or anything odd about the 1997s. (other than that the original importer label on them had been removed and replaced with one from an importer in Tumwater, Washington, of all places. Tumwater! I think we used to go camping there in Boy Scouts).

I'm keeping the bottles and I'm not particularly worried about them, but they did make me curious about fill levels. Does anyone have any thoughts on what a normal fill level is, or what would account for a low level such as these? Is there any harm in such a low level, other than future regret for those extra ounces?

Thanks much,

One of the largest importers in the USA is Bordeaux Locators (as they bring in Costco's wines not to mention their own!) located in Tumwater. I would assume that is the company you are speaking of?

Anyway, as to fill level, there is no specific rhyme or reason beyond the 750 ml fills. There is no particular spot as the bottle shapes can vary and especially on older bottles (in this case pre-1990). Lots of new bottling lines have been employed in the past 10-20 years making automatic, the process of bottle filling. Prior to that the old machinery used was far less perfect. Also, corks do breathe and over time, even with capsules in place ... air does go in and out of the bottle. Without that happening, wine would not age at the normal rate (given the tiny "head space"). Don't fret too much about your fill levels in these bottles as nothing you've described seems particularly peculiar. Evaporation of wine in bottle ... happens! I'd be far more concerned if you believed the cork had failed (elasticity) or the capsule was depressed (forgot to take the SRI meds) or there were signs of seepage (not to be confused with cepage).

Pls. forgive my poor sense of humor, it has been a painfully long day.

Roy,

Thank you for the information, especially at the end of a painfully long day.

As I mentioned, it was more curiosity than concern -- especially with the levels in the 83's being so much higher than the 97's. They are all now settled down for a long nap in the cellar and I'll let you know in 10 years or so how they turned out.

Yes, Bordeaux Locators is the company. In my childhood memories, Tumwater was simply the exit sign on I-5 that meant we were finally getting closer to lunch in Centralia -- it seems far too prosaic to be the home of one of the largest importers in the States. I learn the most unexpected things on the board.

Thank you,

Tyler,

Thanks and I hope others might also add some words of wisdom on Port filling lines and fill levels as it could be a very interesting piece of Port minutia with lots of enthusiasts.

If you are ever in the area, let me know and I'd be happy to open an '83.

Roy,
A very generous offer, thanks. I admit to being particularly fond of the 1983s.