For The Love Of Port

I was dining with my two best friends from childhood who I know for over 4 decades, in NY this evening. For dessert I look over the uninspired list of the usual suspects and then decide to look at their dessert wine list. I spot a listing for 1985 Fonseca VP for only $18 per glass and I call our waitron over. I asked her to let me know if the Fonseca '85 bottle on the back bar is open. She comes back and nods her head. I told her that I normally would only buy wine like that if the bottle is sealed. She offers to pour me some and I say "great" and figure there is no way to lose. She brings it over and I notice LOTS of sediment in the one ounce she poured me. The nose was mildly reminscent of what once was a good VP. The palate was even more elusive and a shell of itself. I thank her and the bartender comes over to see if I liked it, which I thought was very nice of him. I explained that the wine is a great one and commend him for having this on the list and he smiles. I then point to large particulate that rings the bottom of the glass. He did not know about decanting and said he's never had Port. This was a top notch restaurant and he was no more than in his late 20s. I tipped our waitress very well this evening but passed on ordering dessert or the Fonseca after giving the bartender a few gentle pointers about decanting as he seemed very eager to hear about this procedure.

On the odd occasions that I've decanted bottles in pubs, I've always found myself conducting a 'masterclass' to an attentive little audience.

There's probably something to be said for producing a 'stock' and copyright free article (complete with plenty of good photos) that can be periodically given to both the specialist and regular press to explain (in about 500 words) everything you NEED to know enjoy good port.

A sort of 'dummies guide' perhaps, but all on one CD (or downloadable) complete with notes to editors, links and contacts, and as far as possible, free of material that will appear dated in a few years time.

Tom

I've had a similar experience in restaurant in New Jersey (but I notice that we're not using names). Top notch establishment, fabulous wine list (although not cheap) and a decent selection of VP by the bottle with one VP always open on the bar.

On the one or two occasions when I have had a glass of the VP from the bar, I have been disappointed. While the wine has always been served from a decanter, the decanting process seems to consist of emptying the contents of the bottle into the decanter and then tapping the bottle sharply a few times to ensure that all the drips come out. The result is a decanter full of disappointing brown sludge.

On the other hand, there are a couple of country pubs in East Sussex that I found on a business trip earlier in the year where the landlord is a port fan. I have had the occasional glass of VP from the pub when I pass by and I have always been very pleased. In this case, the wines have clearly been properly decanted and I have the impression that they don't stay in the decanter for very long. Unusual fare for an English country pub, but a great hit with me.

Alex

I too have had simillar experience at one of Los Angeles' most top notch hotel. the bar had a wonderful wine list, along with a couple of tawnys and a 1977 Warre's. I had the same experience with a sediment filled glass . The bottle was just below the shoulder and already opened. It wasn't the best showing of a '77 Warre's I've had, but it wasn't terrible either.

Me being the friendly talkative person that I am, I started a conversation with the young bartender, who was obviously being treated quite poorly IMO by other guests at the bar. I kindly gave him some pointers on serving VP's and about port in general. He was full of questions as he told me he knew nothing about port. He was so grateful, he ended up giving me a glass of Dom Perignon and another glass of VP as a thank you.

8)

He was so grateful, he ended up giving me a glass of Dom Perignon and another glass of VP as a thank you.

I fired him the next day.

Roy Hersh wrote: I fired him the next day.

Those mean bosses...

just kidding