For The Love Of Port

The more I delve into the history and mystery of madeira, the more questions I seem to be confronted with. There can be 'vintage' bottlings of a wine and then potentially ten subsequent bottlings of a solera of the base wine. There are very few records that I can find about the individual bottlings, and tasting notes rarely distinguish between the different offerings. Differences must exist and I would think that we would all benefit from this information.

Additionally, I can find little documentation for many, if not most of the wines (even more recent vintages and imports) as to how many bottles were produced or currently might exist. In trying to get some of this information from one prominent importer/dealer recently, I met significant resistance; as if this information is very guarded and off limits. I am involved with many people who have a serious interest in wine and very few have any knowledge or experience with madeira (like me until recently ) Perhaps if this type of information where more readily available and part of the reviews, more people would be tempted to seek out the wines and madeira would become a more prominent libation in the US again. Certainly this might lead to some further short term constraint on availability, but maybe it would lead to more planting of malvasia, instead of bananas.

But to my first point...I would love to see more information about the size of different bottlings (along with when the were bottled, time in cask, demijohn, etc) and the possible differences in tasting notes for them individually.

I appreciate any responses and input...and information.

Bob Stern

Bob,

I waited to see if anyone else would be willing to respond to your well thought out questions. Not the case, so I'll do my best by tackling it, since in my newsletter and in our tasting note database, the majority of tasting notes on Madeira are mine (for better or worse).

The IVBAM (Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira or Madeira Wine, Embroidery and Handicraft Institute) was only created in 1979, actually back then it was the IVM (w/out the embroidery nonsense included, until merged in July 2006). The IVM followed the old Junta Nacional do Vinho or National Wine Council. Neither held much power and although they do regulate production, records and many other facets of the drink we love, there's never been much information disseminated by them OR the producers, about quantities of production or what's in storage. You can go see it for yourself when visiting the island and the shippers are a bit more upfront as they get to know you, but to expect an importer to know this ... will only deliver disappointment.

The 8 remaining Madeira producers that export from the island and limited few that only sell on the island, do not release that information easily. nor is it a secret, per se. The producers don't see any need to disclose what they have left in cask or how much gets bottled and it is ever changing; except for newly vinified products. It is one of the mysteries of Madeira.

But I do agree with you that having that information out there would help in being able to accurately portray and promote their product better. That said, I believe that Madeira producers are pretty happy (in general) with sales in the USA/UK at this time, and for their older product, don't want it to be too highly sought after, so they can maintain these older stocks. It is their duty to pass on to their next generation, the old wines they've stewarded during their time in the biz, so that these ancient beauties seamlessly reach a ripe old age. In other words, they control the spiggot and don't want to sell out of their old stocks, just for the short term financial revenues. That's not how this works (and never has been) and it is the main reason we now have categories like Colheita ... so that younger Madeira can be released even before it becomes Frasqueira. It is also why they produce, and moreso, bottle so much 3, 5, 10 and 15 year old Madeira compared to true Vintage.

As to Soleras, that would make for a great book. But it would require a LOT of time nosing around in archives and speaking to current and past members of the trade. I don't believe we'll ever see that information released and not sure it exists anywhere except at the Adegas themselves. I for one, am always willing to enjoy a Solera as most of the oldies are pretty darn good and rarely have I heard ANYONE say that they can tell the difference between an older Solera and a true Vintage Madeira. Likely, back in the 1700's to early 1900's most of what we think of as Vintage Madeira, in some shape or form had a bit of other vintages in them anyway.

Peter will probably elaborate when time permits, but I hope this has been somewhat helpful and we look forward to you continuing to enjoy and we look forward to your future participate. Nice to have you join us!

Hi Bob,
I’ll take a further stab at this.

For practical purposes, the solera system as formerly practiced in Madeira has ceased to exist. The regulation changes that eventually led to the Frasqueira and Colheita ranges (i.e. replacing of the 21 year-old requirement before release of a ‘vintage’ madeira – which itself was a ‘recent’ requirement; in the 1800’s it was common for madeiras to be bottled only a couple of years after production) also limited the production of soleras. I can’t find my ‘Idiot’s Guide To Soleras’ – but in effect, in late 70’s (or early 80’s) any solera had to have at least 10% of the original wine. Prior to that there were no practical controls anyway.
Of course, almost nobody knew what was still in the soleras, so in practical terms this caused all the commercial ones to be bottled while they were still ‘legal’ (although it’s quite possible that there are some family owned soleras still existing).
Hence finding a stock of soleras with different bottling times would be fortuitous – but almost impossible without personal contacts.

EXACTLY the same situation applies to ‘vintage’ madeiras. The old stocks were bottled and/or released at different times. Similarly placed in demijohns at different times.

The ‘easiest’ source has probably been the Barbeito old vintages (including soleras). Their style was to leave in cask until bottled (bypassing the demijohn stage). Accordingly, if ‘one’ bought the same wine from them over many years, then a tasting could be (and has been) constructed to compare bottled after 100 years (say) with bottled after 110 years (for example).

Having done a few of those, it’s clear to me that there is a distinct evolution over time – there are certainly some tasting notes of such a comparison in the files here.

As to vintage vs. solera, this was a project for me when I started drinking Madeira. Our regular group almost always preferred Vintage (in blind tastings) so we stopped buying soleras – hence I can’t answer how they change upon re-release.
BUT it is a personal preference as to style – and given the lack of supply now I can’t see there being much of a market for the research.

And to confuse the issue further, I ‘strongly suspect’ that several (possibly many) older ‘vintages’ are in fact dates of bottling (not origin). So these ‘could’ have been (fictitious example used here to protect the possibly guilty):

A vintage Terrantez is harvested and produced in 1850. The descendants decide to broach the cask in 1875 and discover it’s a phenomenal wine, and top up the cask with new wine (Terrantez) from the current year (or even an older lesser year). Then they try again in 1890 and repeat. Except Terrantez has been wiped out by phylloxera so it is topped up with Bual (or Tinta Negra Mole – which by now is the most common grape variety). In 1900 the patriarch dies and the entire cask is bottled and distributed to the heirs.
Who knows what is stencilled on the bottle at this point? – anything from 1850 Terrantez (probably Solera) to 1900 Bual. And if it is indeed 1900 is this really a solera as it is never topped up again (what does one call the final bottling of a retired solera)?

I doubt whether there was any serious attempt to mislead in the provenance/dating of the historical wines. As late as the early 1970’s Portugal (including Madeira) was an agricultural society, with a ‘tenant farmer’ structure (landowners ‘lent out’ land to ‘tenants’ who gave perhaps 50% of their production to the landowner as ‘rent’). Such systems were the norm in Europe prior to the Industrial Revolution. Extending this background to reality, this could mean that the entire crop of grapes were sent to the landowner, who arranged to produce the wine then return the 50% (example only) of production to the tenant in the form of casks or bottles. The Portuguese revolution in 1974 broke this system – but who knows where any wine ended up (bottles/casks are still found in cellars on the island). It was only when Portugal joined the EEC in 1986 that the codification of wine rules was fully documented – and the 10% solera rule was introduced.

You may have read some of Roy’s reports on some Rare Wine Co tastings of ‘Leacock Madeiras’. The Leacock’s were one of the founders of the industry and in 1981 their direct descendant William Leacock, was head of the family when the Leacock company was acquired by the Madeira Wine Company. His private collection (from the family cellars) was sold at auction a few years back, and many (most) were bought by Rare Wine Company (I bid on about 20 lots and only got one!). But the point is that many of the wines were totally a mystery – not only to vintage but even as to grape. And these came from the family cellars of one of the greatest producers.

Here is Broadbent’s catalogue note on a wine stencilled ‘Madeira A’:

Tasting Note: Medium-pale yellow gold with open greenish rim; a distinctive, acidic, razor-sharp old Sercial character, possibly of the 1860 vintage; medium sweet entry, very dry finish, good texture and flavour. October 2008 *** MB

And here Roy’s note on the bottle he tasted at the Rare Wine Co tasting:

n/v Leacock’s “A” Madeira – Light honey-amber color with a golden-greenish tinge on the rim. Light whiffs of spirituous VA entwined with pipe tobacco, citrus rind and an elusive torrefacted note. Medium in weight, elegant, soft and framed by roasted coffee, spice and light Brazil nut flavors which introduce a modest sweetness early on. The restrained acidity and drying finish reverberate with a burnt caramel aftertaste. Mannie mentioned that on Saturday “it showed like a weak aguardente” and he surmised that may be where the “A” comes from. I am still pondering how Mr. Broadbent conceived this to possibly come from the 1860 vintage. A most enjoyable opening volley. 92 points (6/7/09)

Nobody knows when it was bottled, so that doesn’t help. Neither matches my experience of the several 1860 Sercials I have tasted! But Broadbent has probably tasted more old Madeiras than anyone else, so he at least has some related experience.
Nevertheless, I hope the point is clear that ‘no-one’ knows – no conspiracy, no smoking gun etc. If I was an importer I’m not sure how much time and effort I’d put into a potentially wild goose chase.

When I posted my first note a little over a year ago, I may have been a bit naive and unfocused and perhaps because of that, responses were either not forthcoming, or directed to a admitted beginner. However, after reading the Forum notes for over a year now, I realize that my amateurish questions are more relevant than even I had appreciated. I have been very active learning about and acquiring (and fortunately drinking ) madeira over the past year. I have numerous wines (both vintage and solera) from different bottling dates and bottlers. For instance, I have two different bottlings of the 1834 Barbeito Malvasia, two different vintage 1860 Sercials, three different 1864 Cama de Lobos Solera (one from Avery's), and many others. With many of the posts asking about which bottling date the tasting referred (eg. the recent 1968 D'Oliveras posts), I again suggest that we try to determine and mention the particular bottling. I have been to old Port tastings where the question is frequently noted or asked about the particulars of the bottling being tasted. It is widely acknowledged that bottle age does play a role in changing and perhaps improving madeira. MAYBE I'm being a little too wine nerd(y)? But it seems to be relevant. It may also lead us to understanding how the wine acts over time (Again, maybe a little too nerdy?)

I would also love to know how many of each had been bottled at any particular time. I appreciate the bottlings that note the number of bottles and love it when they number them individually. I am conflicted as to whether the rarity should be marketed or discussed more often. The fact that it isn't, keeps the price down, so we can acquire them; even the "ancient" wines at prices that do not reflect their scarcity and, often times, rarity. The 1855 Taylor Scion was released at 2500 Euros/$3500 US. You can buy 1830-1860's madeiras for 15-20% of that, and individually are more rare.

Madeira may in fact be the greatest wine in the world (ala Broadbent) and we are all lucky to have discovered it. For me, the more information, the better.

Great Questions! I always thought it would be interesting to know how much stock a shipper has of a particular wine. I read in "MADEIRA, by Alex Liddell," that, in "1973 the Delegation of the JNV established the contas correntes for existing stocks held by shippers and by private individuals who chose to register them" Essentially, all of the shippers had to 'declare" all of their stocks of vintage wines and had them certified by the governing body as to the vintage and type of wine in the cask in an effort to start from a level playing field and protect the product. While many of the casks were "believed to be" certain vintages of certain types of grapes, since the casks were passed down from generation to generation, they were essentially certified as such. Fast forward to today, the institute should have records of what each shipper "declared" since 1973, minus what was bottled, labeled, sold, and shipped, so it would make sense to me that this information exists.

Bob/Justin
I’ve just updated my thread on the 1811 Blandy Bual Solera (which could equally well have been posted here)
http://fortheloveofport.com/ftlopforum/ ... =2&t=13478

I certainly welcome (along with you both) more info – but even this somewhat modern bottling (1961) wasn’t easily identified – I was lucky to bump into someone sitting adjacent to the hoped-for-answerer. I don’t know the extent of paper records at Madeira Wine Company – but unless they have an archivist, information seems to be acquired by luck!

Obviously, going forward, we could (and should) expect good record keeping.
In this forum I’ve expressed scepticism as to the true identity of several wines (most prominently the 1899 Terrantez) – if we can’t be sure of the ‘true’ identity of (relatively) widely available wines, I don’t see much hope for the obscure ones.

So, again, I totally agree with the desire for more info – but practically, how much effort would be required to further investigate (and who would/could/should do this?) – particularly if stocks are already fully depleted, so no commercial advantage to be obtained (but a Ph. D. thesis maybe)?