FTLOP: A Forum for Port, Madiera, and SHERRY?

[*John Trombley]

You may be aware, Roy, that one thing that highly interests me are high-quality top-end sherries. They are so in many ways like ports and madieras, and can scale much the same heights, that I wonder if eventually you'll have this a forum for 'Ports, Madiera, and Sherries." Do you, as I suspect, have a smattering of knowledge about the high end of sherry? It's often marvelously underpriced. For instance, I picked up a bottle of Very Rare Amontillado 51-1a from Domecq, a 30-year-class Amontillado. [/size]

I understand that since 2000 a special class of age-dated reserve sherries have been certified. They are called:

VOS – Vinum Optimum Signatum or Very Old Sherry. This is the designation for 20+ year old Sherry.

VORS –]Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum or Very Old Rare Sherry. This is the designation for 30+ year old Sherry.

These “Age Dated” Sherries will have a special label attached to them authenticating their status.
(Thanks to Gonzalez Byass for this information.)

These types are not the only examples of exquisite, great Sherry, which is available in several styles and from very dry to molasses-like. As a matter of fact, it may be impossible from the labeling to determine exactly the nature of the goody inside the container, but usually Sherry makers are very generous with information to their best customers; they are restricted in how much data can go onto the label. Some exquisite old rarities can sometimes be found in tiny quantities when the contents of great cellars are auctioned, and so that's a place to look as well. I once found a Solera Reserve Amontillado rarity from Gomecq at a New York auction, obviously in bottle for 25 or more years (I'd seen it previously three decades when a special batch was let into the US market). I think I paid $50 for this little gem, whose average age must have been approximate to the 51-1a or even older..

In addition, the caveat that applies to every wine applies here. You don't drink the label, and there are very bad examples that can be found of these item.. However, I'm surprised that there are such evenly high quality lines of these wines available. There is no guarantee, but there is plenty of motivation to explore.

The Amontillado 51-1a Very Rare Amontillado previously mentioned is certified in the VORS category, although some bottles of it were released under the old system. It is an exquisite wine–distinctive, forceful, and complex; utterly dry and yet with considerable richness, and a nearly infinite finish. If it has any faults it may be that it is just too perfect–it takes a lot of attention to detail to enjoy such a wine, and so be ready to work when you sip it. It calls out for as big an intellectual effort as a great Bordeaux.

And, given that it is in this ‘first growth’ class, do you want to know how much I paid for it? Hold your breath. $26. That’s right. $26. It was a shelf orphan from a few years back that I discovered at Holiday Market in Royal Oak, Michigan. Finding that there was no more there or anywhere in Michigan, I did run down a bottle in New York. How much did it cost at current prices? $76. Still such a steal that I cannot imagine it. I believe only 200 or 300 bottles are removed from this solera every year so as not to spoil it. The average age is something like FIFTY plus years, with some wines as old as 70 years! If I had to rate this wine I’d give it perhaps 98 points. I’ve had the bottle open for several months now and it shows little sign on flagging.

I hate to give away the secret, but if you can learn to enjoy the perhaps slightly odd style of Sherry (compared with the rest of Spanish and world white wines) you will be walking into some of the greatest bargains available anywhere in the world of wine. I can drop one or two names but let’s let that go until later, or in another place. [/b]

If you would like this topic to be moved to another forum, Roy, please feel free to do so. Just let me know where it ended up. I was uncertain where it belonged, so it got here first.

[ryan opaz]

I'm with you! Sherry is an under appreciated beverage that has a quality level and history that is incredible. Also the prices are amazing. I would love a forum for sherry/and other Iberian fortified wines. I write about them more than my readers probably care for. Either way, your right that you can find great wines at amazing prices, and when you visit sherry country, if you show an interest they even let you dip into to their old stocks once in awhile. I had a 150yr solera PX that was too die for at La Cigarrera in San Lucar, if that couldn't stand up to a Port I don't know what can.

Anyways I love the forum, mainly just for reading, but I think a nice little niche might be a fortified wine section that excludes port?

Also I would love to hear what other sherries people might have been sipping on lately? I don't get to the states much and I like to hear what is currently available....

[*John Trombley]

Dear Ryan,

Thanks for your note. I envy your living in Madrid, which I have never yet visited, for the great wine and food tradition, which is I hear unlike anything anywhere else in the world, or even in Europe.

Lustau Almacenistas Series are rather popular with sherry lovers here in the United States, such as they are; for instance, for under about the equivalent of 25 Euros we can get full bottles of very distinctive wines drawn directly from the criaderas. A wonderful introduction to the high end of sherry.

The reason more sherry is not drunk in the United States is that there is so much poor stuff here, no one knows anything about the better products. In addition, it's hard to spot an exquisite bottle--the labels look all alike. Therefore I applaud the EU for allowing special categories of upscale wines to be created.

One of the best things about sherry--if you buy a great bottle (excluding Finos, of course) they keep well enough in the refrigerator for multiple enjoyments. This makes them extremely economical, even more than what appears at first glance. Where can you get 30 dollar bottle of great wine that you can enjoy not just once, but several times? This brings the effective price down to less than 10 dollars. And since these are sipping wines, not glugging wines, you won't be emptying any bottles, not at the alcohol levels that they come at! I'm suggesting to all value-loving winegeeks that they purchase these finer sherries now in case quantity, before the critics of the world find some they go crazy over, and let out the secret. This has happened over and over again, so take heed!

In addition, you won't find many wines as adaptable at table as these. They also enhance foods when used for cooking. And I mean the best, not the worst of them, because their flavors stand up to cooking. Try putting a smudge of great Amontillado in a sauce, or sip some with a soup. Exquisite!

Another source of fine wines of this style, which should not be neglected, is Montilla/Morales, like Alvear, also available in this country, and by its discreet labeling often confused with the wines of Jerez. Some of their PX and other wines (such as the Soleras 1927, I think) are surprisingly good for the money.

Thanks for your support for a Sherry forum!

[Otto Nieminen]

John! Wonderful idea. I would love to have a sherry forum as that is perhaps my favourite fortified after Madeira. Also, I have a much better selection of Sherries available than Madeiras. I do love Ports also, but I must confess that I've never had such a sentimental love affair with them as I have with Madeiras and Sherries - it must be the oxidised and volatile notes that as a Musar lover I appreciate

-Otto

[ryan opaz]

Dear Ryan,

Thanks for your note. I envy your living in Madrid, which I have never yet visited, for the great wine and food tradition, which is I hear unlike anything anywhere else in the world, or even in Europe.

Well now I'm moving to Barcelona, so if you do make it this way I'd be happy to taste through some sherries with you!

Lustau Almacenistas Series are rather popular with sherry lovers here in the United States, such as they are; for instance, for under about the equivalent of 25 Euros we can get full bottles of very distinctive wines drawn directly from the criaderas. A wonderful introduction to the high end of sherry.

True I love their wines.

The reason more sherry is not drunk in the United States is that there is so much poor stuff here, no one knows anything about the better products. In addition, it's hard to spot an exquisite bottle--the labels look all alike. Therefore I applaud the EU for allowing special categories of upscale wines to be created.

True I had a wine buying friend come here and he tried Tio Pepe fresh! He didn't believe it was the same wine he had back home. He mentioned how alive it was and vibrant. Fino's and Manzanilla's suffer from travel and the amount of time before it makes it to the table.

In addition, you won't find many wines as adaptable at table as these. They also enhance foods when used for cooking. And I mean the best, not the worst of them, because their flavors stand up to cooking. Try putting a smudge of great Amontillado in a sauce, or sip some with a soup. Exquisite!

Shery is some of the most friendly food wine available. Try an oloroso with red meat charred on the grill, or with grilled sardines! MMMMMMMmmmmmmmm

Another source of fine wines of this style, which should not be neglected, is Montilla/Morales, like Alvear, also available in this country, and by its discreet labeling often confused with the wines of Jerez. Some of their PX and other wines (such as the Soleras 1927, I think) are surprisingly good for the money.

Great wines and good people. Truth is their wines are more available in the states than in Spain. They export almost their entire production. Look especially for their "Fino en Rama" Incredible wine with one of the most exotic noses. BTW all of their wines are made with PX. A common misconception is that PX is only used in sweet wines. PX actually is used in many fino's and other styles. Montilla/Moriles is all PX production according to law and therefore an interesting place to try wines from.

Great discussion

ryan

[Roy Hersh]

Although I enjoy just about ANY Sherry but FINO, I prefer Madeira and Port to Sherry as I never find the full enjoyment or complexity I do in the other two dessert wines from Portugal. Sherry can be great, but it just doesn't have the same beauty for my palate. I know plenty of people who disagree with my assessment.

[ryan opaz]

Ok, well if you follow Catavino, you will see that Gabriella and I just passed our Sherry Educators Course and are now "official sherry educators". It was a class put on by the DO Jerez, and though heavily biased, and definately a marketing gimick of sorts. I have to say 3 days of heavy study and tasting did help a TON to make us better understand this beverage!

Check out the story here. And feel free to ask us any questions, we'll do our best to answer.

[Moses Botbol]

I am big sherry fan too, but don't know much on the high end at all. Not too many experts or wide selection near me. The best I have had was a '62 Vintage Oloroso, which was a great one could imagine. My standby is Lustau Don Nuno.

I would love to see more sherry posts, as I think many of would like to expand our horizons and grab the good ones before the drinking establishment at large catches on to sherry.