For The Love Of Port

There is no formal or definitive explanation of what makes up a "split declaration" in contrast with a "generally declared" vintage, where the vast majority of Port houses each decide to declare, (ie; 1963, 1970, 1985, 1994, 2003). In the newsletter, I tried to get to the bottom of this in my column: A QUESTION FOR THE PORT TRADE. All agreed that deciding on a specific vintage declaration is a decision made independently, by each Port shipper. However, there was not 100% consensus as to what made up a "split declaration." It occurs in back to back years, normally with some shippers declaring the first year (say, 1991) while others choose to wait for the following year (1992). Although there have been less than 10 split declarations in the past two hundred years, the 1991 and 1992 is a fine, recent example of this rare phenomenon. Some producers, like NIepoort and Quinta do Infantado, declared both back-to-back, but the British owned Port shippers have typically been reluctant to do that, and chose sides.

Some stated the Taylor (and Fonseca) only chose 1992, as it was the 300th anniversary of Taylor's and it would have been foolhardy for them to miss an opportunity to declare that year. Of course, at the time this was a contentious topic and pitted two old friends and rivals on either side of the bookend years. It made for good press and there was lots of it back when the declarations were made. I remember it quite well. Alistair Robertson was quite vocal about why 1992 was the better year and they had both Ports in cask to taste side-by-side before making their final determination. James Symington on the other hand was equally as vocal, and was cock sure that his family had made the correct call, for all the right reasons.

Using 1991 vs. 1992, and again refering back to AQFTPT, where it was clearly stated that in order for it to be declared as a "split" The Fladgate Partnership has to be on the other side of the decision from the Symington Family Estates. This is even more true today as those two major Port players combined, control such a large number of Port houses acquired over the years. SFE chose to declare 1991 and 1992 was heralded as the better year by TFP. Who is right? Well, here is an article w/ tasting notes that examines that exact issue. Enjoy!

http://www.decanter.com/wine/labels/339 ... -1991-1992 -- tasting notes by Richard Mayson

I'd love to hear your comments on this too. It is always a great topic!

I have not yet read Richard's article but will do so immediately after posting this comment.

Based on tasting many examples from both vintages I think 1992 was the better vintage and probably should have been generally declared.

An interesting twist on the SFE v TFP debate is that the general mumblings are that TFP held off 1991 in favour of 1992 because of the anniversary. But is it possible the the SFE (and other non-TFP British houses of the time, including Croft) declared to 1991 in an attempt to bluff TFP into joining them and then missing out on an anniversary declaration?

Speculation and paranoia - the world would be boring without them

Derek T. wrote:I have not yet read Richard's article but will do so immediately after posting this comment.

Based on tasting many examples from both vintages I think 1992 was the better vintage and probably should have been generally declared.

An interesting twist on the SFE v TFP debate is that the general mumblings are that TFP held off 1991 in favour of 1992 because of the anniversary. But is it possible the the SFE (and other non-TFP British houses of the time, including Croft) declared to 1991 in an attempt to bluff TFP into joining them and then missing out on an anniversary declaration?

Speculation and paranoia - the world would be boring without them

Since the Symington's nailed the 80/83/85 vintages, I guess this was TFP's turn to shine.

I must say, that I know from serious discussions with James, Michael and Peter Symington (mostly James though) at The Factory House lunch on an early Wednesday in May 1994, that the Symington's were NOT bluffing at all. In fact, James was VERY CLEAR that he belived 1991 to be better. He also told me that "time would prove ... " that they made the correct decision. He also urged me to buy as much 1991 Dow as I could find. I followed his suggestion and have never looked back. While I enjoy 1992's and will be hosting a 20 year retrospective of that vintage in two months; I am convinced that there are some stunning fine Ports made in 1991, lots from the Symingtons: Dow, Graham, Gould Campbell should not be overlooked in this vintage, Vesuvio (not to my liking all that much ... just ok), and a beautiful Warre come to think of it.

Surely it's also difficult to come to definitive conclusions at this stage.

My 2 big takeaways from my limited years of tasting are:

1966s - overlooked for many years, but now really shining

1960s - written off as "past-it" some time ago, but now drinking beautifully.

For me, those are big lessons when it comes to trying to evaluate new vintages.

I must admit that i have probably have enjoyed the 92s that i have had more (esp. Taylor, Niepoort, Delaforce), but Croft and Dow are both serious wines from 91 and who knows where they will all really be in 10yrs.

R. Mayson's snapshot was upsettingly incomplete - there's definitely room for a full 91v92 retrospective!!

Based purely on personal experience - which is limited since I try not to tuck into my port until it is at least 21 years old - I have found that I am slightly more impressed by the 1992 ports than by the 1991s, but the difference is marginal. In the last 4 years, I have tried 89 different bottles from these two vintages, 67 from 1991 and 22 from 1992. 33 of these bottles were rated at 90+. 8 of the 33 were from the 1992 vintage and 25 from 1991.

In other words 36% of the 1992 wines were rated by me as excellent, 37% of the 1991 bottles.

I don't have very many of either vintage, these being only the 10th and 13th most represented vintages in my cellar.

Al B. wrote:Based purely on personal experience - which is limited ... I have tried 89 different bottles from these two vintages