For The Love Of Port

My eldelst daughter was born in 1985, and upon her graduation party this holiday weekend I broke out four 1985 VP: Fonseca, Dow, Warre, and Grahams. The Fonseca was decanted first (the day before the party), and was a lovely dark plum color, more reminiscent of a much younger port. Immediatly after decanting the aroma was nothing great, but with a very nice taste which was overwhemed by spirit.

For the actual tasting, the Fonseca was now decanted 24 hr, with the Dow, Warre, and Grahams decanted 6 hr. The Fonseca threw surprisingly little of a fine sediment, while the other three threw a respectable amount of flakey gunk.

Aroma: Fonseca-very nice, strong fruity smell. The Dow had a more ethereal aroma of flowers and fruit. The Grahams had an "off" smell, which took me all night to come up with a description for. Finally I resolved on "light sewing machine oil" to describe the grahams aroma, which carried over to the taste as well. The only thing I can think of is a insufficiently cleaned decanter used for the first time...but still hard to explain. I'll need to retaste another bottle of this wine to come to a conclusion. It was not so much bad as odd and unusual.

The Fonseca was dark/plum colored, while the Dow was the lightest colored, being ruby with orangish-red highlights. The Warre was a perfect ruby color, darker than the Grahams and Dow but lighter than the Fonseca. The Fonseca was still putting off too much alcohol, degrading what otherwise would have been an excellent port. The Dow and Warre were both very smooth, and well balanced.

In summary, none of the four are in decline yet, and the Fonseca could/should go for another ten years to get the same smoothness as the Dow and Warre. The Dow was the lightest of the four, but drinking very well. Of the four, the Warre is the one I would choose for a dinner party tomorrow, followed by the Dow. The Fonseca has more aging potential, but none of the others are on the decline. The alcohol in the Fonseca is too much to make it a perfect port yet, but I still have some left so I'll follow it out to 72 hour or more an see how it develops. Ratings (using all of the recently discussed scales):lol: :

Warre.....Excellent.....*****.....9/8.....>90.....
Dow.....Excellent.....*****.....9/8.....>90.....
Fonseca.....Very good.....****(*).....8/9.....~90.....
Grahams NR

Jay,

useful notes, thanks. 85s are the most pricey of the 80-83-85 trio here, but I don't have much myself (except a large stash of Taylors) and need to get some. However, reading you notes still can't decide what to go for first. Maybe Warre for home delivery and current drinking and Fonseca for storage?

Stuart

Stuart

I would go Warre for current drinking, followed by the Dow....altough I feel they will both still last for some time yet. The Fonseca to lay down as you suggest. After my last post I have retasted the Fonseca at 4 days age and the alcohol has left, but still leaving a nice port even after 4-days!

I cannot comment on the Grahams due to mine being off. Interestingly, the 85 Warre and Dow are cheaper around here than the 83 (both being cheaper than most of the 2003s!), and I never see any 80 at all. The 85 Fonseca is not so cheap here, but still reasonably priced for what will be in time a very nice wine indeed.

Jay

Stuart,

I have Fonseca and Graham's 85's - both have been sent off to Boarding School until they grow up and are ready to behave themsleves in civilised society

My Graham's are good ones. Unfortunatley, Jay, you seem to have had a spoiled bottle. You should try to get some from a different source - it tastes like nectar 8)

Derek

Derek Turnbull wrote: My Graham's are good ones. Unfortunatley, Jay, you seem to have had a spoiled bottle. You should try to get some from a different source - it tastes like nectar 8)

Derek

I'll be searching for some more of the Grahams. The 85 Warre is my favorite post 70's port right now, and I would be more than happy to expand that list!

Jay

Gotta tell ya, I think you over decanted the Fonseca and didn't decant the other 3 long enough. The IMO the 85's should be decanted between 8-12 hours. Just one mans advice.

Derek Turnbull wrote:Stuart,
Unfortunatley, Jay, you seem to have had a spoiled bottle. You should try to get some from a different source - it tastes like nectar 8)

Derek

Jay,

I live near you (well... closer than Oporto). If you'd like to try a great bottle of 85 Graham's (or really any of the ports I have), just shoot me an email or PM and we'll get together. I'm consistantly blown away by the 1985 Graham's. It's one of the all-time greats.

-Dave-

Steve Saxon wrote:Gotta tell ya, I think you over decanted the Fonseca and didn't decant the other 3 long enough. The IMO the 85's should be decanted between 8-12 hours. Just one mans advice.

Steve

I have had the Warres recently several times decanted for 10 hours, and it was great. And it was great this time as well, although decanted only for 6 hours. Actually, as you mentioned, I would have normally decanted the Warres/Dow/Grahams for 10 hours, but obligations prevented that. But still excellent at 6 hours, and not much different than 10 hr.

I dont think I over decanted the Fonseca though....I tasted it right after decanting and it was very nice, except for the excessive spirit. I tasted it all the way out to four days, and to my taste it was better on day four than any time in between....still fairly fresh but without the excessive alcohol.

Derek Turnbull wrote: I have Fonseca and Graham's 85's - both have been sent off to Boarding School until they grow up and are ready to behave themsleves in civilised society

Derek

I agree.

The Dow 1985 is going to be a really fine bottle as it comes into focus. However, the Fonseca and Graham's when properly decanted are both atop the '85 pyramid. For my palate the Taylor has never delivered much love from the '85 vintage and the Warre is even tastier today in comparison. Don't overlook the Burmester! Everybody should have a case of the Fonseca '85 in their cellar as this is one great wine that is still quite affordable given its 20+ years of age and caliber of the juice. IMO, it has always been underrated and in years to come it will be one gorgeoous VP, even though I love drinking it at this stage as well.