For The Love Of Port

We knew it was coming and it is with sadness that I report that Luis D'Oliveiras has purchased ABSL and at an agreed upon point in the near future, the end of the run for the Olim brothers will be upon us.

Although it is sad to see yet another producer disappear into obscurity on the island ... although many of us will long remember the charismatic brothers, Edmundo and Artur ... fortunately, it is D'Oliveiras that made the purchase. Fortunately, because:

a. D'Oliveiras is located directly next door to Barros e Sousa (ABSL)
b. Luis has a great appreciation for the history of the island and scarcity of remaining producers
c. Given the location, there is still the possibility that the ABSL visitor center will continue to operate (but that is supposition on my part)
d. All of the above

Praise the lord that no multi-national beverage conglomerate came to the "rescue". Given possibilities, this is far from the worst outcome (to say the least).

Raise a glass for the Olim brothers tonight.

Yes, I'm sadded at the loss as well; but as Roy said, it was inevitable. Good that D'Oliveiras bought them, but I find their respective styles at opposite ends of the spectrum; ABSL very lean and elegent and D'Oliveiras very rich and concentrated. Does anyone know if the stocks of ABSL will be kept in the same lodge?

That was not disclosed, as of yet.

And who's left to vinify Listrao or Porto Santo?

Roy Hersh wrote:Raise a glass for the Olim brothers tonight.

Tipping a glass now to the Brothers Olim

Sad news, but after all nice that Luis is taking over, then it is in the best hands. Opened a 1983 Malvasia from ABSL today and raised a glass for Edmundo and Artur. It was always such a pleasure to visit the place!

True old world charm in every sense of the phrase.

And wife and I were even at Mr. d'Oliveiras when the negotiations with the Olim brothers took place (we interrupted our meeting for 20 minutes to let him talk with them)!!! We feel kind of being part of Madeiran history now .

Well at least we now know who to blame!

Eric Ifune wrote:And who's left to vinify Listrao or Porto Santo?

Hi Eric,

According to IVBAM it was more than ten years since any producer bought grapes from Porto Santo. Until this year! The newly started Madeira Vintners and Paulo Mendes has decided to give Listrão a chance. And Caracol from Porto Santo as well!

The two varieties were fermented as separate lots. Some macerated in order to get some tannins out. The Caracol had a Brix level of 21, the Listrão at 22/23. The 2013 wines are both fermented as sweet. Paulo has told me though that if the season permits, he will try to do a dry Listrão next year as he is not restricted by law to create a certain style when it comes to the variety.

I'm visiting the new winry in January and are then able to try the Listrão and Caracol. Report will come!

All the best,

Niklas

Interesting!
Looking forward to your report!

Great news, I have learned today that D'Oliveiras who recently purchased ABSL is going to honor the Barros e Sousa brand by continuing to bottle under that name, not their own.

This is fantastic and I can only think of one similar dynamic in the Port world that went in a very different direction than the way that Luis D'Oliveiras is handling this.

Nice to hear this since the styles are so different. So we'll be able to purchase ABSL at the D'Oliverias lodge?

My speculation is that the ABSL lodge will continue to exist and may stay open for tourism, without the Olim brothers of course but likely with Luis' family and employees running it. So the bottles themselves will likely still be available on the premises and not mixed in with the D'Oliveiras products. Again, this is purely assumptions based on the information mentioned earlier yesterday.