1927 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

[matthesen]

Christie’s auctioned an extensive private cellar (700 lots) with a number of old wines, including some ports. The ports went back to early 20th century ports, many purchased at Christie’s London in the 1960s.

I took a risk and bought the lot below for $528 including commission (below the low estimate). I was not able to get any information on the crusted port, but have read about them for years without ever trying one. The unknowns were clearly a risk, but figured 1927 was worth a shot. The raised cork on the unknown troubled me, but I figured what the heck.

• Unknown Port, Vintage 1927
  Vintage embossed capsule, bottled by Whigham, Fertgusson,
  Cunningham & Co.; missing label; Level: very top shoulder (1)
  Unknown Port, Unknown Vintage
  Believed old vintage port; damaged wax capsule top; missing
  label, raised cork, believed ex-Christie’s London (1)
  Cockburn, Quinta do Eira Velha Crusting Port, Non Vintage
  Bottled and shipped by Cockburn Smithies, London; bottled 1981 (10)

I have opened one of the crusted ports, but wasn't too impressed. My MW-student father-in-law believes it is slightly corked (not in the nose, but more the palate) so I will have to open another (but they are all off-site).

I opened the Unknown Port - Unknown Vintage Christmas eve. It was the 1927 Taylor (based on the cork branding). While the cork was not well seated (up about 1/8 - 1/4 or an inch), the port was in nice condition. Not oxidized and not cooked. Not sure whether it suffered a trauma that raised the cork, or if it was poorly seated in the beginning. Either way, it was quite nice upon opening, and got better with time in the decanter.

1927 Taylor Vintage Port
Pale ruby core with very pale ruby / tawny rim. Nose showing quite complex, with cherry fruit, minerals, licorice, some earth and tobacco. Surprisingly nice shape for such an old wine (especially give the slightly raised cork). Got better and more integrated with time in the decanter (about seven hours), with the initial spirit becoming fully integrated. Palate showed spicy red fruits, orange peel, fig, and more. The alcohol was much more noticeable in the palate, with a bit of a drying finish (although this improved with time in the decanter). Quite a powerful palate with an unreal length (measured in minutes). Not sexy or seductive, but a powerful wine that was younger than expected and delivered a lot of intensity. The length was extremely impressive. I wonder if it would have been better some years/decades ago, but certainly not dead yet! We left some in the decanter to check on how it does in the morning.

50+5+13+17+8 = 93 points

[Tom Archer]

Very nice find!

The raised cork is an obvious worry - especially if the exposed part appears to have been originally inside the bottle. However, brief exposure to excessive temperature does not seem to impact Port in the same way that it can a table wine - but it does have a big effect on the auction price!

What was the level in the bottle?

Tom

[matthesen]

The fill level was quite good. A bit hard to tell sometimes with the dark glass of Port bottles, but seemed not to have lost any along the way. Hard to tell with an 80-year-old cork, but it appeared as it had been out of the neck for a long time. Might be that it was only discovered to be high when the was capsule was chipped away...

[Roy Hersh]

Steve,

Thanks so much for posting your TN here. It is not too often that we get to read an experience such as this and it provides great insight and makes for a very interesting topic. I hope others will chime in too!

See you in 10 weeks for the Fonseca vs. Taylor vertical.

[matthesen]

Life doesn't suck...

[Derek T.]

Life doesn't suck...

It does when you're sat in the office wishing you were still on holiday

Derek