Decanting Bordeaux

[Tom Archer]

Ch D'Issan '83 (Margaux 3eme) is not a wine that has enjoyed much critical acclaim.

At a recent auction that I attended in person, I witnessed a case that was about to be knocked down for £100. On the spur of the moment, I stuck in a bid and bought the dozen bottles for £110.

First bottle opened was left to breathe for a couple of hours before I attacked it. However, the first glass suggested that a £2.99 bottle from Tesco might have been better...

But as I worked my way down the bottle it got better and better.

Second bottle I played a hunch and decanted it, using the funnel and gauze strainer I use for VP. I also decanted into a magnum ship's decanter, to give maximum aeration.

Without further delay, I poured a glass about 5 minutes ago.

Wow! - the difference between this and the first bottle could hardly be greater - this is now a class wine.

Now I don't pretend to be an expert on Bordeaux, and this is a snapshot observation, but it does suggest that aeration has a much more rapid effect on unfortified wines.

It also suggests to me that if you have some bottles of table wine that are distinctly rough and heavy, a decanter may be the answer.

Tom

[Frederick Blais]

Now I don't pretend to be an expert on Bordeaux, and this is a snapshot observation, but it does suggest that aeration has a much more rapid effect on unfortified wines.
Tom

This is absolutely true from my experience too. But again, just as when you ask how long should I decant my VP before opening it, it is the same with old Bordeaux :"Should I decant or not".

Often what do with old Bordeaux is that I pull the cork one hour before drinking it. I let it slowly breathe for one hour and then I taste it. If it's good I let it like this, if not I take the chance to decant it and enhance it this way.

What I've seen on a few occasion is the wine deteriorating so fast after its decanted. Like Chateau La Lagune 1970, it was beautiful on the first glass but dead on the second. But again some wine like chateau Latour 1981 was dead on opening and alive and enjoyable after it was decanted and other wine like Chateau Talbot 1976 even from a lesser vintage was really nice from opening t'ill the bottle was empty 2 hours later.

I don't think there is a danger of decanting 20 yo Bordeaux from good vintage, 1983 was excellent in Margaux. When it comes to older Bordeaux, it becomes specific to each bottle we open IMHO.