For The Love Of Port

Posted: **Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:53 am**

2002 Quinta de Roriz Vintage Port

I got a ½ case of this last year and have never seen a tasting note on it, so today I thought it would be best to crack a “youngling” open and give it a proper TN. Before I get into the first of several TN’s, I thought a bit of info about this Quinta would be in order. Roriz has one of the best Port websites I have seen. It is very detailed with production methods, breakdown of the blend, etc. and worth a look. You can get to the website by clicking the "Port Producers" icon on this website.

In the very earliest years of the 18th century, more than 150 years before the Port companies of Oporto began to build vineyards in the Upper Douro, a Scotsman named Robert Archibald travelled into the Douro. He acquired a perpetual lease on a wild and isolated property between Pinhao and Tua. Here he built a rudimentary shooting box from which he hunted wild boar and partridge in the surrounding countryside. Shortly after he began to plant a vineyard on his land and Quinta de Roriz started to produce wine.

Today Roriz is owned and managed by João van Zeller, the sixth generation of van Zellers to own the Quinta, in association with the Symington family. Joao van Zeller is related to the Symingtons as the latter have a van Zeller ancestor. Together the two families are determined to reinstate the Quinta's historically pre-eminent position.

Roriz occupies 200 hectares and is one of the most spectacularly beautiful Quintas in the Douro. All the grapes were picked by hand and trodden by foot in the Quinta's own 7 stone lagares. The wines were then aged in the Quinta's oak vats prior to bottling. Only 750 cases of the very finest Port produced at the property in 2002 have been selected for bottling

Variety % Rent. Kgs/Vine Baumé
Vinha Velha 25% 0.9 12.5
Touriga Nacional 40% 1.2 12.8
Sousão 20% 1.4 13.1
Tinta Barroca 15% 1.6 13.6

Total acidity: 5.2 g/l
Baumé: 3.8

Upon Decanting at 0800:
A very dark purple, although not quite to the level of “Squid Ink” that the 2003 VP’s are. A strong nose of plums and blackberries, with a slight hint of a refreshing mintyness and some unintegrated alcohol that I have learned to associate with very young VP’s. The palate is a bit thin and disjointed at this stage. Showing plum, cedar, boysenberry, and a touch of herb. It is nicely balanced with moderate tannins and acidity. The finish is medium in length and goes down quite smoothly. The alcohol on the nose is very well integrated and balanced with the fruit on the palate. Not a blockbuster at this stage, but very promising. I look forward to charting its course throughout the next 24-48 hours…depending on how much will power I have to sip it slowly

More to come….

(Final Score 91+ points)

Posted: **Tue Jan 23, 2007 3:10 pm**

6 hours later (1400):
The nose is of a nice soft plum, with hints of blackberry and touch of chocolate. It is difficult to stop smelling it. The nose has really come together and is just wonderful. Palate has firmed up a bit, the tannins are really starting to show stronger than earlier. The fruit is starting to show itself a bit more. The finish is still clipped, and lacking a little bit of complexity. So far, it has gotten better and quite enjoyable at this point, well at least for a tannic young VP! My impression at this stage is of a very good mid-term drinker. Back to it in a few hours.....

Posted: **Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:49 pm**

12 hours later (2000):
The nose on this is just outstanding…plums and more of a boysenberry now than blackberry. On the palate, this has started to integrate so well. The young disjointed Port earlier is just now starting to come around and show what this off-vintage is capable of. The texture has thickened, the alcohol has integrated even more, and the fruit is really starting to come alive. The finish on this has changed so dramatically since the last tasting. It is no longer clipped and is showing quite a bit of promise. I must say, I really look forward to trying this again in the morning. I’m sure you all want a score at this stage. Sorry, but I am going to reserve giving it a score until tomorrow, as I am very curious to see how it does after 24 hours +.

Posted: **Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:56 pm**

A year or so back I launched a thread titled 'Roriz - one to watch?'

I think some people thought I had a vested interest - I don't - but both the history and current management of this Quinta, coupled to the views of commentators such as Richard Mayson, suggests that these wines may gather momentum.

It is of course very early days still - under the current management, the wines have only been bottled as an SQ since 1999, and the objective seems to be to produce very fine full wines for the long haul.

There is a logic here, as they are declaring all but the worst years, the Symingtons need a style that contrasts with Vesuvio.

They are being shipped in plain plywood cartons - unlike the elegant boxes used for Vesuvio or the super opulent cases being used for Senhora da Ribeira - and the price seems to reflect this.

One to lay down by my reckoning!

Tom

Posted: **Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:04 pm**

29 hours later:
Still has that amazing nose. It seems to be holding about the same as my last post. Although the tannins and acidity are in full swing in this young VP, making it quite the mouth puckering glass.

My impression thus far is quite positive of this old Quinta that has been brought back to life. Although 2002 is not a blockbuster year, Roriz has managed to produce what I feel is going to be an excellent mid-term drinker. As for a score I give it 91+ right now. But when this starts to maturity in about 10-15 years, it will be an excellent one to drink while waiting for those 2000’s and 2003’s to mature.

Posted: **Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:08 pm**

uncle tom wrote: There is a logic here, as they are declaring all but the worst years, the Symingtons need a style that contrasts with Vesuvio.

They are being shipped in plain plywood cartons - unlike the elegant boxes used for Vesuvio or the super opulent cases being used for Senhora da Ribeira - and the price seems to reflect this.

One to lay down by my reckoning!

Tom

Tom,
If they continue to produce off-vintages like this, I think they should. So long as they keep the price down to reflect that. I think I paid about $35.00 (US), and for this vintage, it's a no-brainer for me at that price.

Yes, this is one to lay down for awhile, say 10-15 years.